Aus Intake Extensions now available.
10-14-2002, 02:32 PM
#33
Moderator
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I apologise that the installation instructions didn't go with the intakes. I'm still working on them and didn't want to delay the shipping any more.
The felt pads are there to protect the finish where it is close to the bonnet. There is a bit of movement in the bonnet (I think mostly when you close it) and being a tight fit it can hit the intake.
Use the template to locate the positions for the felt pads on the underside of the bonnet.
Instructions will go out today.
I apologise that the installation instructions didn't go with the intakes. I'm still working on them and didn't want to delay the shipping any more.
The felt pads are there to protect the finish where it is close to the bonnet. There is a bit of movement in the bonnet (I think mostly when you close it) and being a tight fit it can hit the intake.
Use the template to locate the positions for the felt pads on the underside of the bonnet.
Instructions will go out today.
10-14-2002, 02:43 PM
#35
Registered User
Originally posted by Mark Turner
So, was it easy to fit, Cedric? Initial reactions?
So, was it easy to fit, Cedric? Initial reactions?
Install was dead easy.. it took me less than an hour. Bear in mind though that my air dam (top plate) is already removed so allow a bit longer for that. The only real problem is the original stock intake is held n place by two rivets. If I'd had a Dremmel or similar I' sure I could have ground the rivets out in situ, but I didn'...so I removed the airbox and drilled them out from underneath. Once the bottom half of the box is back in place, it's just a matter of feeding the business (intake) end of the CAI down the front of the rad and the back end fits snugly into place in the lower airbox. Once the lid is back on the CAI is locked solid anyway as it sits firmly on the cross member and can't move at all. The clip on the buisiness end is a nice touch, but in my case at least, hardly necessary. I suppose there could be slight variations from car to car though.
I ran two pieces of household draught excluder around the jaws of the upper and lower halvesof the air box just to make a tight seal round the intake. It's good fit anyway. Wayne provides two small adhesive patckes to position on the undersid eof the bonnet to stop it marking the top opf the CAI, but I don't think it quite touches anyway.
First impressions then.....
There's a slight intake hum on tickover hardlynoticeable once you close the bonnet. To be expected though and it shows the thing is sucking lots of air. Improved throttle response is immediately noticeable. I had a quick blast roundbut it's pissing down out there so I couldn't reall get far into VTEC. The sound is very nice! not OTT but subtley more rorty and it progresses with the throttle opening. The thing I've noticed more than anything is acceleration is MUCH smoother and when you ease of the revs and back on again in normal driving, the pick up is instant an much smoother, as though the car wants to leap forward. The car feels bit stronger and I'm sure there must be some bhpgains but that wasn't my prime intention in getting it, I was after the throttle reponse and it seemsto be there.
All in all I'm really chuffed with it and I'll report further when I've had chance to assess it properly.
10-14-2002, 02:44 PM
#36
Moderator
Thread Starter
The most important thing when installing is to make sure the intake sits as flush with the crossmember as possible. The fit is so tight here that any space between the crossmember and the intake will mean that it touches the bonnet. At one point I tried using mounting tape, but as it was a millimeter thick it stopped me closing the bonnet.
10-14-2002, 02:48 PM
#37
Registered User
CT, first off - it looks very in red v silver,.
how is the airdam held in place - I can see the screws at the top - but what holds it in place at the bottom?
in red v silver,.how is the airdam held in place - I can see the screws at the top - but what holds it in place at the bottom?
10-14-2002, 02:50 PM
#38
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Join Date: May 2002
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Originally posted by Cedric Tomkinson
All in all I'm really chuffed with it and I'll report further when I've had chance to assess it properly.
All in all I'm really chuffed with it and I'll report further when I've had chance to assess it properly.
Col the Carper is organising a group buy and I've been umming and erring as to whether to add an Aus intake to my order as well as the headrests. I'm not going to let a small problem like not having a car at present get in the way of placing the order
I'm a bit cack-handed with anything practial though, so if all else fails I'll be coming calling on you, Cedric
EDIT: Aus, is the blue one listed on your site an MCB-ish blue or more of a Nuremburg Trials-ish blue?
10-14-2002, 03:13 PM
#39
Registered User
Kobe:
That air dam is an absolute bastard to get out. It's not so bad once you know how. You can obviously see the top row of screws. They're actually not screws at all but push in plastic plugs which you can ease out with a flat screwdriver. If you put your hand onto the dished part of the plate and feel back towards yourself you'll find the second row of plugs which are also removed with a flat screwdriver. Expect to lose some skin.
Once you know where they are, you can actually just get your head low enough to see some of them. Once you've got all the plugs out you have to bend press and pull, twist at the plate... do what you got to do to get it out, you wont break it, just be careful of the air-con pipes which are around there. 
Mark dunno whether we should let you have one now j/k It's pretty easy mate but we'll sort something out I'm sure.
That air dam is an absolute bastard to get out. It's not so bad once you know how. You can obviously see the top row of screws. They're actually not screws at all but push in plastic plugs which you can ease out with a flat screwdriver. If you put your hand onto the dished part of the plate and feel back towards yourself you'll find the second row of plugs which are also removed with a flat screwdriver. Expect to lose some skin.
Once you know where they are, you can actually just get your head low enough to see some of them. Once you've got all the plugs out you have to bend press and pull, twist at the plate... do what you got to do to get it out, you wont break it, just be careful of the air-con pipes which are around there. Mark dunno whether we should let you have one now
j/k It's pretty easy mate but we'll sort something out I'm sure.
10-14-2002, 03:35 PM
#40
Moderator
Thread Starter
The Blue is Monte Carlo Blue. All paints mixed to the Standox colour codes.
The best way to remove the front air guard is to unscrew the 4 top rivets and pull them out. The screws are there to lock the plugs. Then, push the back of the air guard down and under the front crossmember. I guess Cedric has smaller hands than me because on my first attempt I lost more thane just skin. Once I realised you could push the back under the crossmember it frees up a lot of space and you can get a flat blade in there easily. Remove the four pop plugs
Then you have to drop the guard down and pick it up by one side and lift it out end first. Squeeze it together as it passes between in the front bar and the crossmember.
The best way to remove the front air guard is to unscrew the 4 top rivets and pull them out. The screws are there to lock the plugs. Then, push the back of the air guard down and under the front crossmember. I guess Cedric has smaller hands than me because on my first attempt I lost more thane just skin. Once I realised you could push the back under the crossmember it frees up a lot of space and you can get a flat blade in there easily. Remove the four pop plugs
Then you have to drop the guard down and pick it up by one side and lift it out end first. Squeeze it together as it passes between in the front bar and the crossmember.