chrispayze

They're do sit differently. I'm an engineer, so I always have concerns if things don't fit quite as per OEM. The bottom of the injector body (black bit) is chamfered and just sits into the 'entrance' of the intake manifold seal, sealing on the top edge rather than sliding into it properly and sealing down the sides. It might be fine, but the combination of that, and the fact they're supposed to be 'drop in' replacements, and the o-rings were too tight in the rail all reduces my confidence. Hence I'm triple checking with TTS before I 'bodge' it.

markforrester99

Let us know how you get on Chris as i was planning on fitting mine over the winter. Abit annoyed that they aren't plug and play especially as they list as being a straight swap

chrispayze

Will do. I've just had a 2nd reply from DW saying that the rubber 'bumper' that should sit flush up against the rail is just a dust cover and does actually seal. I kinda knew that, but I actually said there was a 5mm gap and if I tighten the rail down, the dust seal gets deformed, which doesn't look right. Not exactly a comprehensive reply! Alex at TTS is back in tomorrow so Richard has told me to chivvy them for a response first thing. They've clearly fitted them before, so I'll just do what they do. Judging by Yorkie's reply, it'll likely involve a little spacing. Not a problem, happy as long as it's worked for others. I just want a proven solution.

yorkies2k

I messed about for ages thinking I was doing something wrong with them. Only way was to space. It seals fine and I've had no issues apart from the cover won't fit back over the rail. Really shouldn't be selling them as a drop in oem fit injector though. Far superior to rc's though and better priced than the ID ones. I'm pleased with mine. Much better idle and drivability and easier to map than the rc750s I had previously.

chrispayze

Cheers, glad I'm not the only one!

biker1

I used some small washers to act as spacers to lift the rail slightly to enable the clamping down and correct 'squash' for sealing - worked fine.

markforrester99

How did you get on in the end? Im going to take my car off the road tomorrow for a couple of weeks to get a few jobs done and the injectors are one of the first jobs

markforrester99

Well i had a go at fitting these last night and tonight.

Firstly old stuff comes apart easily enough and the injectors came off with the fuel rail leaving the rubber cushions in the inlet manifold. When i removed the fuel pressure regulator from the rail the O-ring disappeared into the depths of the engine bay.... Oh joy.

I run into the same issue that Chris had with the double o-ring. I carefully removed the second o-ring but made sure i kept them. I spaced the 3 studs with a total of 2mm of washers per stud. The main issue is that the injectors were a loose fit in the rail with just the single O-ring. It wasn't very reassuring how loose they felt in the rail. I decided to put it all back together and give it a go. One massively handy option on the AEM ecu is being able to set how long it primes the pump so i set it on its max and left it priming and listened and looked.

It didnt appear to be leaking but then i found traces of fuel on the injector body closest to the bulkhead. I took it all apart again and made a point of tightening down that side of the rail first to make sure it sat in properly. Primed it and it still leaked... I was getting abit pissed off now as it felt like these injectors might be ready for the bin.

I stuck the second o-ring on all the injectors and pushed them into the inlet manifold and tried again to refitted the fuel rail. It was tight and you can only just get the nut on the thread but it seemed to do the trick. The rubber parts on the injectors at the top in my eyes are designed to deform abit as the rail pinches down on them so im not overly worried about them being squeezed and it also seemed to help keep the injector tight in the rail. I imagine the 2nd o-ring is either mashed up against the fuel rail lip or more likely been forced in to the rail and will help with the seal.

Primed the car again and finally no leaks and i was happy enough to start it. After abit of a stutter the car ran with a slight missfire for a few seconds and then idled nicely. Infact it was idling at 14.7 which isn't bad when you consider i only used the AEM injector recalibration to get a rough idea of starting fuel.

I will check and check again tomorrow for any leaks. Im abit paranoid as only yesterday my brother had a deatschwerks injector fail on his mini nearly causing a fire as it sprayed fuel all over the engine and bonnet.

Will be interesting to see how Chris gets on fitting his and whether he runs into the same issue with only using one o-ring.

chrispayze

Useful stuff, thanks. I've got mine fitted (single O-ring and a set of thick washers) but I need to install a couple of sensors before I get it all fired up, so it might be a couple of weeks. I'll report back for sure. I'm not convinced there's enough force to seal properly at the moment but we'll see.

Is your leak from the rail side or the manifold side of the injector?

And on another note, how did you get to know the AEM software? I'm about to start with a base map fro Romain but if you found any decent guides, it would help me get into it a bit quicker.

markforrester99

With the one - O-ring fitted they wobbled and wiggled about quite easily which didnt seem right to me. I tried differing amounts of washers but i felt that the 2mm of washers enable the most amount of clamping force without deforming the injector rubber.

I got a copy of the AEM manual and spent a fair bit of time messing about with the software and learning the important things. I paid AJ to map my car via datalogs so i could learn what he was doing and ask him questions. There is a guy who has posted loads of videos on the AEM ECU and its features and how to use them. I think they are on youtube