Alpine 10" SUB and 1 or 2 channel AMP
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alpine 10" SUB and 1 or 2 channel AMP
I have now installed my Alpine (US SPEC) 9833R headunit into the S2000 using modifry's DCI adaptor, it works a treat however there is a lack of bass and now the headunit is already overpowering my already upgraded speakers (pioneer). Im going to swap out the compnent speakers with some high power 2 or 3 way Alpines but then to compliment the whole package I was wanting a 10inch Sub and Amp made by Alpine, im not really good at keeping up with the latest products really so was wondering if there is a car stereo nutter out there to recommend me a couple of products?
http://www.alpine-europe.com/alpine/...ails.php?t=111
http://www.alpine-europe.com/alpine/...tails.php?t=73
Regards
Nick
http://www.alpine-europe.com/alpine/...ails.php?t=111
http://www.alpine-europe.com/alpine/...tails.php?t=73
Regards
Nick
#2
Nick, I don't know my subs I'm afraid (I'd look on the Electornics forum or wait for X-ruckus to pop on the board) but I am surprised that your HU is overpowering your "upgraded" front speakers. The HU is only going to be producing 24W RMS max and therefore almost all aftermarket speakers will be able to cope happily. Are u sure that its not your HU which is clipping - what volume have you turned it up to on the HU to get the distortion you are hearing?
EDIT: I've seen the Alpine subs in some of the US installs - they have a good rep. But like I say, US guys will know better. As for the componentn speakers - the ALpine 177As that Budgie has seem good. I love my Bostons when they are working (awaiting a replacement tweeter from the States at the moment).
EDIT: I've seen the Alpine subs in some of the US installs - they have a good rep. But like I say, US guys will know better. As for the componentn speakers - the ALpine 177As that Budgie has seem good. I love my Bostons when they are working (awaiting a replacement tweeter from the States at the moment).
#3
UK Moderator
Nick,
I had a (UK spec!) 9833R installed at the weekend, as well as Alpine SPX177R components (and very nice it sounds too) IMO, there is plenty of bass, but any distortion only comes from the HU at about 24 on the volume scale. 20 is plenty for motorway speeds IMO.
However, Impulse Trading in Watford - 01923 231358 - fitted the whole lot for
I had a (UK spec!) 9833R installed at the weekend, as well as Alpine SPX177R components (and very nice it sounds too) IMO, there is plenty of bass, but any distortion only comes from the HU at about 24 on the volume scale. 20 is plenty for motorway speeds IMO.
However, Impulse Trading in Watford - 01923 231358 - fitted the whole lot for
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
The pioneer upgrades were halfords budget style... I should of known better! My 9833R headunit is apparently 60W RMS per channel, which is why it has difficulty coping. The headunit can be turned upto 36, it starts distorting at around 20. The other day I just whacked it up for a laugh and it shut the headunit off at volume level 26...
I'll ask budgie about the ALpine 177As, im going for ALpine through and through.
Thanks for the reply
I'll ask budgie about the ALpine 177As, im going for ALpine through and through.
Thanks for the reply
#5
Originally Posted by hornyhonda,Oct 29 2004, 02:53 PM
My 9833R headunit is apparently 60W RMS per channel, which is why it has difficulty coping.
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#10
Noise (not necessarily distortion - they are easliy confused!) is often due to earth loops caused by the OEM loom not being able to cope with the higher demands of a 9833 with 4x60W PMP rather than the puny OEM output. The power supply can also suffer from injected noise! The main reason for changing the power cable is the OEM loom is not rated for 20A which is what the high power Alpine units require! So you are risking a fire - worst case!
Do a search (after the weekend upgrade!) It is easily done! 20A cable from battery positive through 20A fuse in engine bay, through grommet under battery and into 9833. For the earth most people use the 10mm bolt that holds the frame the HU goes into to the transmission tunnel.
Do a search (after the weekend upgrade!) It is easily done! 20A cable from battery positive through 20A fuse in engine bay, through grommet under battery and into 9833. For the earth most people use the 10mm bolt that holds the frame the HU goes into to the transmission tunnel.