Alignments - disappointed
#1
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Alignments - disappointed
had the 02 "optimum" alignments done on new wheels & tyres & was initially impressed but I think this was due to changing the tyres back to s02's.
so after @ 1.5k miles I dont like these settings, sure the back end seems steady but theres lots more understeer & the car seems less pointy & the steering vague.
Is this consistent with what the settings should create?
I think I may go back to the originals if my tyres will take that (1.5k motorway miles)
I seem to remember someone else saying similar I think it was Nick.
any opinions or settings would be appreciated
W
so after @ 1.5k miles I dont like these settings, sure the back end seems steady but theres lots more understeer & the car seems less pointy & the steering vague.
Is this consistent with what the settings should create?
I think I may go back to the originals if my tyres will take that (1.5k motorway miles)
I seem to remember someone else saying similar I think it was Nick.
any opinions or settings would be appreciated
W
#2
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Well I've just had mine done and discovered they've set them back to the original 99 spec. I hate it with a passion. (Frickin useless gits )The car just does not handle as well.
So it could be just what we've grown used to.
So it could be just what we've grown used to.
#4
If you have a printout, posting the settings will allow everyone to make more informed suggestions.
The 'Optimum' alignment affects quite a few bits. It shouldn't affect turn in too much, depending on how you approach the corner. While the 'O' alignment (could do with a short name for it!) increases grip all round, the toe change at the back also affects how the back reacts under weight transfer, and power in particular. It could well be that it's the rear toe change that you're feeling.
If you can post the settings you ended up with, that'll give a lot more info. Also, just do the usual checks on tyre pressure etc, just to be sure.
-Brian.
The 'Optimum' alignment affects quite a few bits. It shouldn't affect turn in too much, depending on how you approach the corner. While the 'O' alignment (could do with a short name for it!) increases grip all round, the toe change at the back also affects how the back reacts under weight transfer, and power in particular. It could well be that it's the rear toe change that you're feeling.
If you can post the settings you ended up with, that'll give a lot more info. Also, just do the usual checks on tyre pressure etc, just to be sure.
-Brian.
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these were the settings obtained from the printout:
front - camber = - 1.00
caster = 6.25/6.28
toe = 0.02
inc angle = 9.17
sai = 10.18
total front toe = 0.04
rear camber = -2.00
toe = 0.20
thrust line = 0.00
total rear toe = 0.41
all readings left & right within 0.02
thx
W
front - camber = - 1.00
caster = 6.25/6.28
toe = 0.02
inc angle = 9.17
sai = 10.18
total front toe = 0.04
rear camber = -2.00
toe = 0.20
thrust line = 0.00
total rear toe = 0.41
all readings left & right within 0.02
thx
W
#6
Odd that they didn't get the front toe right as it's by far the easiest part of the adjustment to get right
The toe in on the front will reduce the turn in on the car slightly, but even though it's wrong it's not badly off.
Given the figures are pretty good, it's most likely that the combination of your driving style and this alignment don't get on well. That's not a criticism of your driving style - just an observation. For example, where you have the weight on turn in, when you get on the power and how, all affect how the car reacts.
The part of the alignment that's most likely to be not working well for you (bear in mind I don't know your driving, so I'm working under some assumptions here), is the rear toe. The increased rear toe tend to stabalise the rear under load changes. It sounds like the additional toe in may be just enough to stop your car setup (my that I mean how you're setting the car up for the corner, not the physical setup), from getting the car to a neutral (or slight oversteer balance).). If you do re-align, try less rear toe in - around 0.30 total is a reasonable compromise, or you can go to the original 0.20. I wouldn't suggest going below that on a road car.
The vague steering comment is interesting. Do you have the figures from before? They managed to get very good castor which is the major figure that affects the steering feel. To help here, I need a bit more info. Does the steering feel vague on initial turn in only, or does the feeling remain when loaded in a decent corner? (A fast roundabout being a good example). Initial turn in is dominated by the toe in. Feel under the load is affected more by the castor. Castor changes the camber of the wheel as you turn in for cornering - so if the castor and base camber aren't appropriate you end up getting the wrong total camber in the turn which affects the grip and the feeling. It's more likely that it's just the toe and the initial turn in, but again, I have to make a lot of assumptions here, as I don't know your driving. Just aiming to give you a mit of background into what is likely to be happening, and how it all relates to give you a chance to make an informed decision what to do.
-Brian.
The toe in on the front will reduce the turn in on the car slightly, but even though it's wrong it's not badly off.
Given the figures are pretty good, it's most likely that the combination of your driving style and this alignment don't get on well. That's not a criticism of your driving style - just an observation. For example, where you have the weight on turn in, when you get on the power and how, all affect how the car reacts.
The part of the alignment that's most likely to be not working well for you (bear in mind I don't know your driving, so I'm working under some assumptions here), is the rear toe. The increased rear toe tend to stabalise the rear under load changes. It sounds like the additional toe in may be just enough to stop your car setup (my that I mean how you're setting the car up for the corner, not the physical setup), from getting the car to a neutral (or slight oversteer balance).). If you do re-align, try less rear toe in - around 0.30 total is a reasonable compromise, or you can go to the original 0.20. I wouldn't suggest going below that on a road car.
The vague steering comment is interesting. Do you have the figures from before? They managed to get very good castor which is the major figure that affects the steering feel. To help here, I need a bit more info. Does the steering feel vague on initial turn in only, or does the feeling remain when loaded in a decent corner? (A fast roundabout being a good example). Initial turn in is dominated by the toe in. Feel under the load is affected more by the castor. Castor changes the camber of the wheel as you turn in for cornering - so if the castor and base camber aren't appropriate you end up getting the wrong total camber in the turn which affects the grip and the feeling. It's more likely that it's just the toe and the initial turn in, but again, I have to make a lot of assumptions here, as I don't know your driving. Just aiming to give you a mit of background into what is likely to be happening, and how it all relates to give you a chance to make an informed decision what to do.
-Brian.
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#8
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Thanks for the replies.
here are the previous 'factory' settigs on my 02.
front camber = -0.19 , -0.33
front caster = 5.46 , 5.46
toe = 0.01 , 0.05
sai = 9.37
rear camber = -1.19 , -1.35
toe =0.22 , 0.17
these were used with various sets of F1's (35 k) now back to S02's (32psi cold)
so it may be that my driving has changed. I will have to be more analytical in what I'm finding with the set up . i.e what happens in which situation.
so, off for a drive notepd in hand.
thx
W
here are the previous 'factory' settigs on my 02.
front camber = -0.19 , -0.33
front caster = 5.46 , 5.46
toe = 0.01 , 0.05
sai = 9.37
rear camber = -1.19 , -1.35
toe =0.22 , 0.17
these were used with various sets of F1's (35 k) now back to S02's (32psi cold)
so it may be that my driving has changed. I will have to be more analytical in what I'm finding with the set up . i.e what happens in which situation.
so, off for a drive notepd in hand.
thx
W
#9
This is fascinating!
Mine goes in tomrrow to have it put back to 01 settings! I just don't get on with the O settings.
I can concur with the opinions suggested - mine has good feel (fat too much NSF castor >7deg46!) but the steering feels rubbery and understeery from anywhere off straight ahead. This tends to lead me to overapply the power to cancel it.
Also, I notice that the RWS effect had been dialled out. I have to make minor corrections with the steering, whereas I'd use the throttle to adjust the line normally.
The front toe is -0deg02', the rear 0Deg54'.
Last time it was -0.6mm and 2.4mm respectively. How irritating that different measuring methods were employed!
Mine goes in tomrrow to have it put back to 01 settings! I just don't get on with the O settings.
I can concur with the opinions suggested - mine has good feel (fat too much NSF castor >7deg46!) but the steering feels rubbery and understeery from anywhere off straight ahead. This tends to lead me to overapply the power to cancel it.
Also, I notice that the RWS effect had been dialled out. I have to make minor corrections with the steering, whereas I'd use the throttle to adjust the line normally.
The front toe is -0deg02', the rear 0Deg54'.
Last time it was -0.6mm and 2.4mm respectively. How irritating that different measuring methods were employed!
#10
It is weird how the same cars with the same geo drive differently for different people
I love the handling of mine on the "HUKO" geo! Maybe that's the acronym?
Rear is solid all the time and turn in is spot on! Though I do have 18" alloys with wider rubber and 2 front braces
I love the handling of mine on the "HUKO" geo! Maybe that's the acronym?
Rear is solid all the time and turn in is spot on! Though I do have 18" alloys with wider rubber and 2 front braces