Alignment discussion
09-24-2012, 03:08 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Si2k' timestamp='1348484231' post='22033521
Im runing 215/45/17 fronts and 225/45/17 rears.
There's your oversteer answer then, if it were me I'd get some wider tyres on the back and get rid of the front toe, that'll be a big improvement already.
I've got 1°30' camber on the front and 2°30' camber on the rear and I love the way it handles, it's very predictable.
Think the front end is definately where the issue is, its definately less prone to Oversteer than it was before alignment. Ignore the pre settings above as the car was taken to bits due to every bush being seized. I have memory of it running much less rear camber though
09-24-2012, 03:11 AM
#12
Registered User
Si isn't getting oversteer though.
09-24-2012, 03:14 AM
#14
Member
These readings are pretty similar to my MY05, bar the Toe out on the front.
I disagree with Mark though on more camber - you'll go through tyres in no time!
Intriguing why it understeers on the limit though, especially with Toe out on the front, although this with the camber will be why you suffer from excessive wear at the front.
I disagree with Mark though on more camber - you'll go through tyres in no time!
Intriguing why it understeers on the limit though, especially with Toe out on the front, although this with the camber will be why you suffer from excessive wear at the front.
Can't have it all
Think I have near -3 deg front and -2 rear, as Ron says... But pointless for road use.
09-24-2012, 03:26 AM
#15
Registered User
Originally Posted by sound_wave' timestamp='1348483481' post='22033509
These readings are pretty similar to my MY05, bar the Toe out on the front.
I disagree with Mark though on more camber - you'll go through tyres in no time!
Intriguing why it understeers on the limit though, especially with Toe out on the front, although this with the camber will be why you suffer from excessive wear at the front.
I disagree with Mark though on more camber - you'll go through tyres in no time!
Intriguing why it understeers on the limit though, especially with Toe out on the front, although this with the camber will be why you suffer from excessive wear at the front.
Can't have it all
Think I have near -3 deg front and -2 rear, as Ron says... But pointless for road use.
09-24-2012, 03:46 AM
#16
Originally Posted by lovegroova' timestamp='1348482928' post='22033500
That's quite a low rear toe-in setting for an older car (pre-04 standard settings are for more rear toe than for post-04). I run roughly 20' each side.
Front toe out is more racing driver-ish, most folk go for as close to zero as possible.
Camber-wise 1[sup]o [/sup]at the front and 2[sup]o[/sup] at the back is pretty standard "fast road settings" (although I hate that term).
Front toe out is more racing driver-ish, most folk go for as close to zero as possible.
Camber-wise 1[sup]o [/sup]at the front and 2[sup]o[/sup] at the back is pretty standard "fast road settings" (although I hate that term).
Im confused to why its running toe out on the front too - I'll find out as its a daily drive and I want some tyre life.
Understeer might be due to something else, like potholes.
most rwd have slight toe in and large castor to aid stability, so it's safe for the majority of drivers,
I don't know which machine you have being on so - maybe toe in, very unusual though, in the 38 years i have being in the trade and using a few different rigs they have always being + toe in and - toe out on the front, some very early rigs read the opposite on the rear, but that was years ago,
09-24-2012, 03:57 AM
#17
Im of the same school of thought. After lots and lots and lots of testing I definitely prefer less rear camber and more front (currently -2'20f/-1'55r). It makes the on the limit balance a lot better for me.
Typically more toe out on the front will make your turn in great but at the expense of the rear end. Id say the toe out is definetely accelerating your front tyre wear. I wouldn't expect understeer with your setup at all, in fact with 225 rear tyre id expect loads of oversteer! It must be the high -ve rear camber thats keeping it in check. On/beyond the limit it must be snappy though?
What coilovers and ARBs are fitted? Which tyre types and pressures are you using?? What is the usage track/road %age, how 'eager' are you ?
Typically more toe out on the front will make your turn in great but at the expense of the rear end. Id say the toe out is definetely accelerating your front tyre wear. I wouldn't expect understeer with your setup at all, in fact with 225 rear tyre id expect loads of oversteer! It must be the high -ve rear camber thats keeping it in check. On/beyond the limit it must be snappy though?
What coilovers and ARBs are fitted? Which tyre types and pressures are you using?? What is the usage track/road %age, how 'eager' are you ?
09-24-2012, 04:02 AM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Tyres Eagle F1AS2 running 32psi
Standard springs on Koni Yellows running standard height.
Standard ARBs
Spoon braces
Poly bushes with Mugen compliance bushes.
Its my faily drive with rare track usuage and Im more of a Lewis then Jenson driver!
I need to really check the setting currently, the alignment may be out which would explain the US. It doesnt feel snappy.
Standard springs on Koni Yellows running standard height.
Standard ARBs
Spoon braces
Poly bushes with Mugen compliance bushes.
Its my faily drive with rare track usuage and Im more of a Lewis then Jenson driver!
I need to really check the setting currently, the alignment may be out which would explain the US. It doesnt feel snappy.
09-24-2012, 04:13 AM
#19
Ok its not too modified. Konis have an adjustment on them i think, what have you got them set to?
Id consider zeroing the front toe and reducing the rear toe to something like 0'10 when you get the Geo rechecked. That'll put you between the uk/standard geo settings.
The front is normally good at holding its alignment. I find my rear toe always moves. I think the solid bushed 'hardrace' toe arms i have don't help with regard to keeping the alignment between checks, not an issue for yourself.
Id consider zeroing the front toe and reducing the rear toe to something like 0'10 when you get the Geo rechecked. That'll put you between the uk/standard geo settings.
The front is normally good at holding its alignment. I find my rear toe always moves. I think the solid bushed 'hardrace' toe arms i have don't help with regard to keeping the alignment between checks, not an issue for yourself.
09-24-2012, 04:46 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
They have adjustable damping which I normally have on middle for road and half a turn off stiffest for track, i recently tweaked the front to be slightly stiffer as going from Bridgestones to F1ASs made the turn in a bit softer.
I should stiffen the rear a bit which in theory will help but I cant imagine it being a big effect.
Thanks for the all the ideas so far, Zero front toe and less rear toe is of appeal. Rear tyres wear very evenly at the moment so not sure if anything else needs doing.
Any thoughts on the front castor?
I should stiffen the rear a bit which in theory will help but I cant imagine it being a big effect.
Thanks for the all the ideas so far, Zero front toe and less rear toe is of appeal. Rear tyres wear very evenly at the moment so not sure if anything else needs doing.
Any thoughts on the front castor?