E4RTH WORM JIM

I want to remove my air pump and all associated wiring: 7.5a fuse and casing, solenoid, air pump, vac lines etc & current sensor.

I've removed everything but the current sensor and now the car doesn't like it and won't start. If you put the air pump back in circuit the car starts fine.

So before I pull the system for good and remove the current sensor, what software tweaks are needed in AEM tuner so the car will start?

I assume it's the current sensor holding the start signal off, so I want rid of it rather than sticking a resister in the circuit.

E4RTH WORM JIM

I have found the diagram that shows the circuit installed on our UK cars.

Someone who is FI or running an AEM EMS must have come across this issue before? I want to avoid putting a resistor in which feels like a bodge when you have a fully programmable ecu.

People have told me that the ecu doesn't see the air pump circuitry, or output a signal to the air pump..... which isn't strictly true.

Terminal A31 is connected and used and I want to disable it in the software.

Anyone?

chrispayze

My pump is removed and I've had no problems with the AEM Series 2 EMS. I could look at the map and see if there's anything in mine that is 'turned off' compared to yours?

surfer_crx

It shouldn't make a difference whether the pump is there or not. The only thing I can think of is that in removing it you have taken away an earth wire that is critical to the ECU.

It didn't matter with my Haltech but I only removed the pump and pipework I didn't take any of the wiring out.

eSeM

I also didn't have any issues when I removed the air pump and pipes

E4RTH WORM JIM

Chris: yeah if you could that would be great it must be in the start up parameters.

A31 is a ground output so yes, it's a little green wire that feeds back to the ECU from the 7.5a fuse.

I was thinking about putting it (A31) to ground but I am not 100% sure that is correct. I'd rather disable it if possible.

Only just found this diagram so going to do some more testing today. It's pissing me off though

I've sent AEM and email also.

FastFez

Hi James,

When I removed mine and it resolved my sensor issues as the air pump wiring was feeding back (think it was C32) mine would start but wouldn't idle. Romain logged on remotely and tweaked the map so it now idles ok. As the sensors were all over the place he'd had to give it more fuel (I think), and once it was resolved it ran too lean to idle so just started and then died. Not sure if your problem is similar. I also noticed that my BOV used to chatter constantly on idle with the air pump attached but now works properly and only releases pressure on the overrun etc. so perhaps the pump or the wiring were make it run constantly and was causing more problem than I thought.

Cheers,

Jez.

E4RTH WORM JIM

Hi Jez,

There isn't a C32 pin.

Thanks for the information though. Mine is now lumpy on idle but runs ok

FastFez

Doh! Apologies - my memory isn't what it used to be!

Yep - it was filter 32 that was burnt out on my board which apparently corresponds to C24 on the pin out.


Glad you're making progress though, I know how frustrating it is.

chrispayze

Jim, any idea where I'm likely to find the settings for the air pump? I don't know my way around AEM Tuner that well, other than setting up sensors etc.