Air pump delete kit
07-29-2013, 10:33 PM
#61
That's what I did - left the pump in place and connected the resistor to the first socket I could see - WRONG ! it's the socket behind the pump - really obvious if you actually remove the pump first but not if you try and leave it in place to test.
The annoying bit is removing the bumper (I don't know why as it's really not that bad) and the tricky bit is to remove the metal pipework attached to the chassis tub. Everything else is dead easy including the blanking plate so once you've got as far as swapping the resistor you'll want to do the rest anyway.
The annoying bit is removing the bumper (I don't know why as it's really not that bad) and the tricky bit is to remove the metal pipework attached to the chassis tub. Everything else is dead easy including the blanking plate so once you've got as far as swapping the resistor you'll want to do the rest anyway.
07-29-2013, 10:53 PM
#62
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I know what you mean about removing the front bumper. It's and easy enough job, but not one I ever enjoy doing for some reason. I suspect it's because you have to get under that car which means jacking it up slightly. Man I sound like a lazy sod 
07-31-2013, 10:49 PM
#63
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HELP!!!! Ok so my oil cooler arrived yesterday and i thought id kill 2 birds with 1 stone, so I fitted the resister to see if cleared the CEL light. It did... for 5 mins and came back on. Am I doing anything wrong? I have tried the resister 2 ways via the connection and still doesn't clear? Any advise is welcome.
Cheers
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08-01-2013, 12:03 AM
#64
The CEL will come on in the first 30 seconds if it's related to the air pump delete - 5 mins is a bit long for it to be directly related to the resistor.
Did you make the same mistake as me ? The socket you need to plug the resistor into is the one behind the air pump next to the wheel arch but tbh that code comes up pretty quicky.
Or it might be related to not fitting the blanking plate causing an "air leak" type code in the vacuum lines ?
It's worth getting a code reader of some kind so you can at least narrow down where the fault code is being raised.
Did you make the same mistake as me ? The socket you need to plug the resistor into is the one behind the air pump next to the wheel arch but tbh that code comes up pretty quicky.
Or it might be related to not fitting the blanking plate causing an "air leak" type code in the vacuum lines ?
It's worth getting a code reader of some kind so you can at least narrow down where the fault code is being raised.
08-01-2013, 03:56 AM
#65
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I have a code reader and its the same code. I say 5 mins... i cleared the code started the car and it had cleared left it running and got a drink, came back and it was on. I've prob got it in the wrong socket doh! going to check now 
All sorted and worked a treat! 
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