Agony Aunt needed
#12
If it isn't DD then definitely a project. Would be nice to strip is right down. Maybe a light track machine?
What do you mean Only Fools And Horses was before your time. Don't you have Dave?
What do you mean Only Fools And Horses was before your time. Don't you have Dave?
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have free view and dave doesnt work on it haha
Its my DD. Unless a dedicated track car I dont see the point in owning a performance car that is a garage queen.
Its my DD. Unless a dedicated track car I dont see the point in owning a performance car that is a garage queen.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have a plan that I am going to execute tomorrow.
Get some prices to fix the rear arches, compare that price to the hassle of returning to stock/selling/buying and then remodding.
We will see.
#16
Buddy, can you list whats actually wrong with it?
When i say whats wrong with it, split that in 2 categories; Critical and Uncritical. For example anything that fails the MOT would be Critical, stops you using the car. However the paint on the bumpers is uncritical, you want it done but it can wait until you have time/funds. The rusty arches is a difficult one as it very much depends on where the rust is and how severe.
I'm very much on the side of "better to have a nail you know", you could sell this one, loose money and then buy another that has other hidden faults. Obviously it could go the other way.
Once you have your list of problems you can put cost estimates next to them and decide on that. That's how i would do it.
You got pics of this arch rust? Mine are now going and under my rear bumper is horrendous. I will be tackling this myself, but mine shouldn't need anything welding in.
When i say whats wrong with it, split that in 2 categories; Critical and Uncritical. For example anything that fails the MOT would be Critical, stops you using the car. However the paint on the bumpers is uncritical, you want it done but it can wait until you have time/funds. The rusty arches is a difficult one as it very much depends on where the rust is and how severe.
I'm very much on the side of "better to have a nail you know", you could sell this one, loose money and then buy another that has other hidden faults. Obviously it could go the other way.
Once you have your list of problems you can put cost estimates next to them and decide on that. That's how i would do it.
You got pics of this arch rust? Mine are now going and under my rear bumper is horrendous. I will be tackling this myself, but mine shouldn't need anything welding in.
#18
S2000s with a good engine are hard to find. If I were you I would save up and sort each bit that I can afford to. If it still had 107k on the clock and is still mechanically sound (bar the rattles) I would sort it out bit by bit. My car was a dog, body wise but like yours, mechanically sound so I gradually fixed the body issues.
Persevere, it can, and deserves to be saved.
Persevere, it can, and deserves to be saved.
#19
I had both my rear arches replaces on mine and you would never know, mainly because I stripped the interior out of the car and had the whole rear quarter skins removed and replaced with a pair from a much newer car with no signs of rust. I've also just finished replacing all the bushes, having the subframes shotblasted and epoxy coated, the sills and all the open holes in the underneath of the car sprayed with rust converter and then coated with milspec wax.
Whoever said once a nail always a nail obviously doesn't like hard work, by the time mine is done it will look good and be protected against rust for a long time and I intend to keep it.
Whoever said once a nail always a nail obviously doesn't like hard work, by the time mine is done it will look good and be protected against rust for a long time and I intend to keep it.
#20
As above - if it's mechanically good, fix the bodywork. If you can't stomach the cost of the work, punt it on and spend the bodywork money on a better one but just be aware it's the mechanicals that empty your wallet when they go.