Advice on handling/grip for a 1999
#13
Putting Eibach on Koni will be 50mm lower at the back than OEM <if that's the plan>
ie:Koni lower 20mm on highest setting/Eibach 30mm lower=20+30=50mm
ie:Koni lower 20mm on highest setting/Eibach 30mm lower=20+30=50mm
#14
Thanks Guys,
I was running 32 psi. I'm not sure what they actually should've been or actually what they should be for daily use.
I didn't find any deterioration in grip, but I was only doing short 10-15min stints.
The mix of shocks isn't ideal - the Konis were on the rear when I bought it, but I fitted the eibachs to the front recently and was waiting for them to settle before fitting the rears as I wasn't sure what it would do to the rake of the car (i.e. i was a bit concerned the back would look too low).
I'll go and get the geometry looked at first.
When I used to have an ep3 the advice was to baffle the sump if you had sticky tyres - is that a good idea with the s2000 even with semi slicks?
Dave
I was running 32 psi. I'm not sure what they actually should've been or actually what they should be for daily use.
I didn't find any deterioration in grip, but I was only doing short 10-15min stints.
The mix of shocks isn't ideal - the Konis were on the rear when I bought it, but I fitted the eibachs to the front recently and was waiting for them to settle before fitting the rears as I wasn't sure what it would do to the rake of the car (i.e. i was a bit concerned the back would look too low).
I'll go and get the geometry looked at first.
When I used to have an ep3 the advice was to baffle the sump if you had sticky tyres - is that a good idea with the s2000 even with semi slicks?
Dave
#15
This is the current stance which I am happy with:
#16
My car was at stock alignment settings but lowered a bit, I found it to be okay but was a little prone to oversteer in the corners. It was very very easy to control though, I fitted new bushes as all my adjusters were f@#ked and then took it for an alignment. I went for the stock settings but with the camber maxed out, have a look at the videos and you will see just how much faster and more stable the car is on track (more than two seconds saved on a full lap of Cadwell)
Before alignment
After alignment
So my advice to you is get the alignment checked and then adjusted it will make the world of difference. As for the baffle plate, I've been pulling quite a lot of lateral G (Blyton is an engine killer) and I fitted an oil pressure gauge to check I wasn't losing pressure and it is fine. There's no harm in fitting a baffle but it is not strictly necessary.
Before alignment
After alignment
So my advice to you is get the alignment checked and then adjusted it will make the world of difference. As for the baffle plate, I've been pulling quite a lot of lateral G (Blyton is an engine killer) and I fitted an oil pressure gauge to check I wasn't losing pressure and it is fine. There's no harm in fitting a baffle but it is not strictly necessary.
#18
I thought the upper spring perch on the Koni shocks was at stock height and it's the the lower perch that's 20mm lower than standard? I could be wrong though!
Anyway the first time I took my 1999 S2000 on track I hated how the back end felt. I'd driven 205's, Sylva Strikers, Mojo's and an E46 BMW on track before and it felt a lot more unpredictable at the rear than any of those. I just couldn't push.
I'd say that you need to fit a matching set of springs all round, either the Eibachs or go back to the standards. A matching set of shocks wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I managed to get mine feeling a lot better just by swapping a few parts to other year variants. The early S2000 has got a soft front end and a hard rear compared to the later cars SEE HERE
I fitted front shocks and springs off a 2005-2007 as they're quite a bit harder than what the 1999 got and I also fitted a rear anti-roll bar off a 2002/2003 model as they're softer than the 1999 version, but not as soft as the 2004 onwards one (that I though could be too soft).
My car was much better like this, I could push it a lot more than I could before -the rear felt like it would stick in the corners rather than throwing me off track!
I've changed everything again since then, but it's the balance you need to get correct front to back.
Geo's important too, I use the Federal 595 RS-R tyre that you're on about with max camber at the front which is around 2 degrees at stock ride height and the same at the rear. I've got an oil pressure gauge fitted too and don't see any pressure drops even though I haven't got a baffled sump.
Anyway the first time I took my 1999 S2000 on track I hated how the back end felt. I'd driven 205's, Sylva Strikers, Mojo's and an E46 BMW on track before and it felt a lot more unpredictable at the rear than any of those. I just couldn't push.
I'd say that you need to fit a matching set of springs all round, either the Eibachs or go back to the standards. A matching set of shocks wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I managed to get mine feeling a lot better just by swapping a few parts to other year variants. The early S2000 has got a soft front end and a hard rear compared to the later cars SEE HERE
I fitted front shocks and springs off a 2005-2007 as they're quite a bit harder than what the 1999 got and I also fitted a rear anti-roll bar off a 2002/2003 model as they're softer than the 1999 version, but not as soft as the 2004 onwards one (that I though could be too soft).
My car was much better like this, I could push it a lot more than I could before -the rear felt like it would stick in the corners rather than throwing me off track!
I've changed everything again since then, but it's the balance you need to get correct front to back.
Geo's important too, I use the Federal 595 RS-R tyre that you're on about with max camber at the front which is around 2 degrees at stock ride height and the same at the rear. I've got an oil pressure gauge fitted too and don't see any pressure drops even though I haven't got a baffled sump.
#19
Early cars have slightly unpredictable oversteer because they suffer from rear bump steer. You can dial this out to a large extent with aftermarket rear toe arms. Contrary to popular belief they will work with 16" wheels.
Your mates beemer felt grippier entirely because of its tyres. Have you looked at 16" track tyres? Secondhand sets of 16" wheels can be picked up pretty cheaply and work well.
Your mates beemer felt grippier entirely because of its tyres. Have you looked at 16" track tyres? Secondhand sets of 16" wheels can be picked up pretty cheaply and work well.
#20
I gave away a spare set of rear 16s I had last year - dammit.
My mate has a mojo2 and previously had a leader lol
I'll look into the after market toe arms. If I get time I'll look at the rear eibachs too, I'm just worried I'll fit em and the back is going to sit too low and it'll look stupid lol
But cheers for the feedback guys, got some things to test out now
My mate has a mojo2 and previously had a leader lol
I'll look into the after market toe arms. If I get time I'll look at the rear eibachs too, I'm just worried I'll fit em and the back is going to sit too low and it'll look stupid lol
But cheers for the feedback guys, got some things to test out now