Brake problems
j/k
06-24-2009, 12:02 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by belknap777,Jun 24 2009, 10:16 AM
wait........ what kind of fluid did you use? stupid question, but always start with the obvious. wrong brake fluid = dead brake system.
06-24-2009, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jun 24 2009, 05:59 AM
Bleading by pumping or sucking is all the same. Master Cylinder should not be the problem from bleeding the brakes. that does not mean it is not your problem, just that bleading them the way you did could not have damaged it.
Now my first question is why did you bleed the brakes in the first place? Did you open one of the brake lines?
When did this problem start? Before or after your track event?
Now my first question is why did you bleed the brakes in the first place? Did you open one of the brake lines?
When did this problem start? Before or after your track event?
well after i broke them in they felt fine..i went to the track and i was braking fine..on my drive back i felt they were kinna weak but i thought i was just off after a long day on the track...and next day they were still weak....one theory i was thinkin about is maybe i have burnt my pads...but at the same time i feel like my brake pedal goes lower if i push it down all the way than it used to before...but it doesnt completely touch the floor...
06-24-2009, 12:11 PM
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well its the correct fluid, that leaves the master cylinder if the pedals going all of the way to the floor. if they were working fine at the track and before and then suddenly gave out, master cylinder is the most likely culprit.
just out of curiosity what pads did you go with
just out of curiosity what pads did you go with
06-24-2009, 01:11 PM
#17
If you hard on them at the trackday you may have boiled the dot3, the way to bleed the brakes(afaIr) is to have a small bottle with fresh fluid in the bottom, a length of hose that fits on the bleed nipple and the other end in the fluid in the bottle, slacken nipple and pump pedal ensuring that the level in the master cylinder doesn't fall below low, when the bubbles/old fluid stop coming out of the tube, close nipple and move on to the next wheel till all four have been done. Ensure you have plenty of fresh fluid before you start, I would use dot4 at least.
06-24-2009, 01:15 PM
#18
Ali
You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you open the system. If you just swap the pads, there is no reason to open the system and as such no reason to breed the brakes.
But to your problem. the OEM brake fluild has a low boil point (temp that the fluid biols are). It is common for a car driven hard at the track to boild the OEM fluid and glaze the OEM pads. Your problem could really be either of these two.
1. Get your fuild changed to a DOT 4 fluid. Super Blue, or Mutul 600 would be great. I run the super blue in borth of my cars. The Motul 600 will be my next fluild. Not because it is better, it is just a differant color. Easy to tell when you have flushed one.
2. Remove your pads and check themm. I will bet they are glazed badly. If they are, you will need to replace them.
Many drivers can use the OEM stuff for a few driving events. After they get to a point with their driving, they need to upgrade both of these to handle the demands of the track. The DOT 4 fuild works great on the street and track and has a higher bioling point. The problem is that is collects water faster and needs to be flushed about every 6 months.
You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you open the system. If you just swap the pads, there is no reason to open the system and as such no reason to breed the brakes.
But to your problem. the OEM brake fluild has a low boil point (temp that the fluid biols are). It is common for a car driven hard at the track to boild the OEM fluid and glaze the OEM pads. Your problem could really be either of these two.
1. Get your fuild changed to a DOT 4 fluid. Super Blue, or Mutul 600 would be great. I run the super blue in borth of my cars. The Motul 600 will be my next fluild. Not because it is better, it is just a differant color. Easy to tell when you have flushed one.
2. Remove your pads and check themm. I will bet they are glazed badly. If they are, you will need to replace them.
Many drivers can use the OEM stuff for a few driving events. After they get to a point with their driving, they need to upgrade both of these to handle the demands of the track. The DOT 4 fuild works great on the street and track and has a higher bioling point. The problem is that is collects water faster and needs to be flushed about every 6 months.
06-24-2009, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jun 24 2009, 01:15 PM
Ali
You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you open the system. If you just swap the pads, there is no reason to open the system and as such no reason to breed the brakes.
But to your problem. the OEM brake fluild has a low boil point (temp that the fluid biols are). It is common for a car driven hard at the track to boild the OEM fluid and glaze the OEM pads. Your problem could really be either of these two.
1. Get your fuild changed to a DOT 4 fluid. Super Blue, or Mutul 600 would be great. I run the super blue in borth of my cars. The Motul 600 will be my next fluild. Not because it is better, it is just a differant color. Easy to tell when you have flushed one.
2. Remove your pads and check themm. I will bet they are glazed badly. If they are, you will need to replace them.
Many drivers can use the OEM stuff for a few driving events. After they get to a point with their driving, they need to upgrade both of these to handle the demands of the track. The DOT 4 fuild works great on the street and track and has a higher bioling point. The problem is that is collects water faster and needs to be flushed about every 6 months.
You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you open the system. If you just swap the pads, there is no reason to open the system and as such no reason to breed the brakes.
But to your problem. the OEM brake fluild has a low boil point (temp that the fluid biols are). It is common for a car driven hard at the track to boild the OEM fluid and glaze the OEM pads. Your problem could really be either of these two.
1. Get your fuild changed to a DOT 4 fluid. Super Blue, or Mutul 600 would be great. I run the super blue in borth of my cars. The Motul 600 will be my next fluild. Not because it is better, it is just a differant color. Easy to tell when you have flushed one.
2. Remove your pads and check themm. I will bet they are glazed badly. If they are, you will need to replace them.
Many drivers can use the OEM stuff for a few driving events. After they get to a point with their driving, they need to upgrade both of these to handle the demands of the track. The DOT 4 fuild works great on the street and track and has a higher bioling point. The problem is that is collects water faster and needs to be flushed about every 6 months.
about the pads i will get them checked asap...but i am still scared that the master cylinder will just fail on me...is there any way to check it??
06-24-2009, 04:58 PM
#20
I have done the pump and bleed method before with no problems ,but I ran into a issue on a old friends car where it was taking forever to get the air out and it did end up destroying the master cylinder from doing it
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