FORBIDDEN-USA MUGEN STYLE HARDTOPS *** TAX SEASON SALE
10-06-2011, 11:25 PM
#841
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by S2K979' timestamp='1317886589' post='21044643
A couple questionsWhat is the weight of the pre preg version ?Where is info about the rear diffuser including pics? The thread is getting long and difficult to find some info like this.Thanks
Hmmm, must have missed me, I didn't get a pm
pm'd
10-07-2011, 07:59 PM
#846
Had my vacuum infusion FRP with carbon sides on the car for about two weeks. I kept looking for an in-depth review with detailed pictures when I was buying but couldn't find much, so here's my thoughts with a ton of pics.
Packaging - 4/10
The top ships in a huge cardboard box. The packaging is fine if the box lays flat, but somewhere in transit it's probably going to be stood on its side as mine was when the truck arrived. There's no styrofoam, only bubble wrap and a few small empty cardboard boxes used as filler. My top was resting on its rear corners and they punctured the box. Both corners were damaged and the rear window has a three inch scuff. There was enough room in the box for the top to bounce around. Gotta say I was pretty upset when I saw this.
Hardware - 8/10
The top comes with two brackets, two window seals, one long rear seal about 0.5" thick, and six screws (size is M6, length 1"). Buy washers--you'll need them and they're not included. The two window seals are superb. They don't crink because there's a bendable support rod stuffed inside to provide strength at the window corner. Heads up that the rod can slide up and down inside the seal and you'll need to reposition it so it's at the window corner when the seal is installed. The seals are open at both ends and you can shove something in there to move the rod back into position. Once the seal is installed, the rod will stay put. The adhesive on the seals is great and very strong. I'd say the seals will last for the life of the car and their quality is comparable to OEM. I doubt you'll find better seals anywhere. Be sure to use some Shin-Etsu grease on these to keep them supple and looking nice.
The lexan rear window is well sealed, but the sealant is kinda uneven around the perimeter. Average person probably wouldn't notice. I have the dark lexan option that's scratch resistant which definitely the way to go if glass is unavailable. Interested in seeing how the window holds up over time. Despite the name, it will still scratch so be careful with how you clean it.
The brackets are really simple and come unfinished as bare steel. I primered and rattle can'd mine black to blend into the interior better. I think the brackets are flimsy for the job they're doing. After helping a friend install a factory top on his car and seeing the OEM catchers and brackets (the cost for which if you buy them seapartely from Honda is a joke), these are pretty weak. I think they'd work better if they were another 1/16" thick. Some pics of the bracket install when test fitting and before getting washers:
I reused my softtop strikers and catchers. Here's a pic of the rear seal installed.
And yes, that's what the inside of the top looks like. Tried cleaning it, makes no difference. Looks like ass when light shines directly on it because it's rough and totally unfinished. Once on the car, you don't notice the nasty look of it as much.
Paint - 10/10
The paint is beautiful and the color match to my 06 silverstone is excellent. Glad I opted for the OEM PPG paint. No orange peel or uneven surfaces. Very well buffed. Waxed it for the first time today and it looks amazing. Can't say enough good things about it. Here's what it looked like straight out of the box:
Carbon - 6/10
The carbon sides look cool as hell against silverstone. After ordering, I had second thoughts and thought maybe they'd look ricey and I should have gone with gloss black. Then I thought I should have ordered 2x2 weave, but turns out the 1x1 looks awesome and I'm happy with it. I just wish they weren't so rough around the edges. Ouch.
Packaging - 4/10
The top ships in a huge cardboard box. The packaging is fine if the box lays flat, but somewhere in transit it's probably going to be stood on its side as mine was when the truck arrived. There's no styrofoam, only bubble wrap and a few small empty cardboard boxes used as filler. My top was resting on its rear corners and they punctured the box. Both corners were damaged and the rear window has a three inch scuff. There was enough room in the box for the top to bounce around. Gotta say I was pretty upset when I saw this.
Hardware - 8/10
The top comes with two brackets, two window seals, one long rear seal about 0.5" thick, and six screws (size is M6, length 1"). Buy washers--you'll need them and they're not included. The two window seals are superb. They don't crink because there's a bendable support rod stuffed inside to provide strength at the window corner. Heads up that the rod can slide up and down inside the seal and you'll need to reposition it so it's at the window corner when the seal is installed. The seals are open at both ends and you can shove something in there to move the rod back into position. Once the seal is installed, the rod will stay put. The adhesive on the seals is great and very strong. I'd say the seals will last for the life of the car and their quality is comparable to OEM. I doubt you'll find better seals anywhere. Be sure to use some Shin-Etsu grease on these to keep them supple and looking nice.
The lexan rear window is well sealed, but the sealant is kinda uneven around the perimeter. Average person probably wouldn't notice. I have the dark lexan option that's scratch resistant which definitely the way to go if glass is unavailable. Interested in seeing how the window holds up over time. Despite the name, it will still scratch so be careful with how you clean it.
The brackets are really simple and come unfinished as bare steel. I primered and rattle can'd mine black to blend into the interior better. I think the brackets are flimsy for the job they're doing. After helping a friend install a factory top on his car and seeing the OEM catchers and brackets (the cost for which if you buy them seapartely from Honda is a joke), these are pretty weak. I think they'd work better if they were another 1/16" thick. Some pics of the bracket install when test fitting and before getting washers:
I reused my softtop strikers and catchers. Here's a pic of the rear seal installed.
And yes, that's what the inside of the top looks like. Tried cleaning it, makes no difference. Looks like ass when light shines directly on it because it's rough and totally unfinished. Once on the car, you don't notice the nasty look of it as much.
Paint - 10/10
The paint is beautiful and the color match to my 06 silverstone is excellent. Glad I opted for the OEM PPG paint. No orange peel or uneven surfaces. Very well buffed. Waxed it for the first time today and it looks amazing. Can't say enough good things about it. Here's what it looked like straight out of the box:
Carbon - 6/10
The carbon sides look cool as hell against silverstone. After ordering, I had second thoughts and thought maybe they'd look ricey and I should have gone with gloss black. Then I thought I should have ordered 2x2 weave, but turns out the 1x1 looks awesome and I'm happy with it. I just wish they weren't so rough around the edges. Ouch.
10-07-2011, 08:00 PM
#847
Fitment - 8/10
Ok, here's what everyone wants to know. The mold is great guys! No issues with fitment worth mentioning. The tops sits on the car evenly and the side/rear gaps are consistent. The fitment along the windshield frame is particularly good. The driver side front corner fits tighter than the passenger side, but other than that, I'd say the fitment is about as good as any replica will get. Windows juuuuuust clear the hardtop by about 1/16" at the front corner. Not sure if anyone has had to remove their door panel and adjust the window height with these tops, but luckily for me it wasn't an issue.
The rear gap at center is about 3/8" and pretty much what I expected.
So you're going to install this thing and it's probably going to look really good like mine did. Then you're going to go for the first of many test drives. I spent two full Saturdays and one Sunday tweaking things. I'm still not done actually. The first drive I went on was pretty bad. Above 40 mph, there were air leaks at both front corners and both sides (section of the hardtop behind your shoulder). I noticed the rear seal below the entire length of the window wasn't touching the car leaving a 1/8" gap. But the worst of it was the hardtop on the passenger side creaking like a motherf@#ker where it met the bracket. It sounded like someone walking up an old staircase whenever I was rolling. Driver side was silent.
To fix the hardtop creaking, I tried using rubber washers, bolting it down with the front unlatched (and then trying with it latched), and some more stuff that didn't work. When bolting down the sides, I had someone push down on the top so I would get a snug fit. This was fine for the driver side, but the passenger side hated it. What ended up fixing it was unbolting it and then retightening without pushing down on it. Gaps on the outside still look the same.
For the gap between the rear seal attached to the hardtop and trunk, I bought some generic weatherstripping and stuffed it in there. Glad I removed my wind deflector before putting the top on. I cut it the same length as the window.
Two areas were causing air leaks at the front corners: the striker and the point where the window seal met the windshield frame gasket. I used leftover seal pieces to shove into these spots. Don't have any pics of this because it's dark and tough to photograph. Sorry! For the sides (and this is still being worked on), I'm using insulation/foam and stuffing it in between the hardtop and the car's weatherstripping. You can see the yellow foam in this pic:
What you can't see is that stuff goes in about six inches. The only areas that the included rear seal seems to actually seal completely are the rear corners and the rear half of the carbon sides. I needed to use more material below the length of the rear window and the areas behind the side windows to stop air from rushing into the cabin. The front is now sealed but the sides are tougher to get right. I'm still getting some air coming in at highway speeds. Whatever you use, don't choose anything which makes noise when it experiences friction with rubber. The squeaking gets old fast and I still having some seal squeaking I can't track down. I think it's coming from the rear seal touching the trunk.
I'm afraid to take the top off because of the extra rubber I've added all over the place and having to redo it. It's way, way better now than it was the first time I drove it.
Customer Service - 9/10
I've already praised Alberto in his feedback thread. We worked something out for the damage the hardtop suffered in shipping that I'm ok with. He definitely cares that his customers are happy with him and his product. His concept of time sometimes sucks though and shipping dates tend to get pushed out. In the end, it was two months between sending payment and taking delivery. Still a solid s2ki sponsor. People shouldn't think twice about buying from him, especially since he's one of the few people who offers paint service.
Overall - 7.5/10
While it's a lot of cash for one of these if you spec it out with paint and some of the other options, it's still considerably cheaper than an OEM top or an authentic Mugen. The fitment is very good but lots of things aren't perfect and require your time to iron out. Also, I've pretty much learned that there's going to be some squeaking noises over some roads no matter what you do. If you're ok with that, go for it. I'm very happy with mine and thank Alberto for offering it.
Ok, here's what everyone wants to know. The mold is great guys! No issues with fitment worth mentioning. The tops sits on the car evenly and the side/rear gaps are consistent. The fitment along the windshield frame is particularly good. The driver side front corner fits tighter than the passenger side, but other than that, I'd say the fitment is about as good as any replica will get. Windows juuuuuust clear the hardtop by about 1/16" at the front corner. Not sure if anyone has had to remove their door panel and adjust the window height with these tops, but luckily for me it wasn't an issue.
The rear gap at center is about 3/8" and pretty much what I expected.
So you're going to install this thing and it's probably going to look really good like mine did. Then you're going to go for the first of many test drives. I spent two full Saturdays and one Sunday tweaking things. I'm still not done actually. The first drive I went on was pretty bad. Above 40 mph, there were air leaks at both front corners and both sides (section of the hardtop behind your shoulder). I noticed the rear seal below the entire length of the window wasn't touching the car leaving a 1/8" gap. But the worst of it was the hardtop on the passenger side creaking like a motherf@#ker where it met the bracket. It sounded like someone walking up an old staircase whenever I was rolling. Driver side was silent.
To fix the hardtop creaking, I tried using rubber washers, bolting it down with the front unlatched (and then trying with it latched), and some more stuff that didn't work. When bolting down the sides, I had someone push down on the top so I would get a snug fit. This was fine for the driver side, but the passenger side hated it. What ended up fixing it was unbolting it and then retightening without pushing down on it. Gaps on the outside still look the same.
For the gap between the rear seal attached to the hardtop and trunk, I bought some generic weatherstripping and stuffed it in there. Glad I removed my wind deflector before putting the top on. I cut it the same length as the window.
Two areas were causing air leaks at the front corners: the striker and the point where the window seal met the windshield frame gasket. I used leftover seal pieces to shove into these spots. Don't have any pics of this because it's dark and tough to photograph. Sorry! For the sides (and this is still being worked on), I'm using insulation/foam and stuffing it in between the hardtop and the car's weatherstripping. You can see the yellow foam in this pic:
What you can't see is that stuff goes in about six inches. The only areas that the included rear seal seems to actually seal completely are the rear corners and the rear half of the carbon sides. I needed to use more material below the length of the rear window and the areas behind the side windows to stop air from rushing into the cabin. The front is now sealed but the sides are tougher to get right. I'm still getting some air coming in at highway speeds. Whatever you use, don't choose anything which makes noise when it experiences friction with rubber. The squeaking gets old fast and I still having some seal squeaking I can't track down. I think it's coming from the rear seal touching the trunk.
I'm afraid to take the top off because of the extra rubber I've added all over the place and having to redo it. It's way, way better now than it was the first time I drove it.
Customer Service - 9/10
I've already praised Alberto in his feedback thread. We worked something out for the damage the hardtop suffered in shipping that I'm ok with. He definitely cares that his customers are happy with him and his product. His concept of time sometimes sucks though and shipping dates tend to get pushed out. In the end, it was two months between sending payment and taking delivery. Still a solid s2ki sponsor. People shouldn't think twice about buying from him, especially since he's one of the few people who offers paint service.
Overall - 7.5/10
While it's a lot of cash for one of these if you spec it out with paint and some of the other options, it's still considerably cheaper than an OEM top or an authentic Mugen. The fitment is very good but lots of things aren't perfect and require your time to iron out. Also, I've pretty much learned that there's going to be some squeaking noises over some roads no matter what you do. If you're ok with that, go for it. I'm very happy with mine and thank Alberto for offering it.
10-07-2011, 08:28 PM
#848
Former Sponsor
Fitment - 8/10
Ok, here's what everyone wants to know. The mold is great guys! No issues with fitment worth mentioning. The tops sits on the car evenly and the side/rear gaps are consistent. The fitment along the windshield frame is particularly good. The driver side front corner fits tighter than the passenger side, but other than that, I'd say the fitment is about as good as any replica will get. Windows juuuuuust clear the hardtop by about 1/16" at the front corner. Not sure if anyone has had to remove their door panel and adjust the window height with these tops, but luckily for me it wasn't an issue.
The rear gap at center is about 3/8" and pretty much what I expected.
So you're going to install this thing and it's probably going to look really good like mine did. Then you're going to go for the first of many test drives. I spent two full Saturdays and one Sunday tweaking things. I'm still not done actually. The first drive I went on was pretty bad. Above 40 mph, there were air leaks at both front corners and both sides (section of the hardtop behind your shoulder). I noticed the rear seal below the entire length of the window wasn't touching the car leaving a 1/8" gap. But the worst of it was the hardtop on the passenger side creaking like a motherf@#ker where it met the bracket. It sounded like someone walking up an old staircase whenever I was rolling. Driver side was silent.
To fix the hardtop creaking, I tried using rubber washers, bolting it down with the front unlatched (and then trying with it latched), and some more stuff that didn't work. When bolting down the sides, I had someone push down on the top so I would get a snug fit. This was fine for the driver side, but the passenger side hated it. What ended up fixing it was unbolting it and then retightening without pushing down on it. Gaps on the outside still look the same.
For the gap between the rear seal attached to the hardtop and trunk, I bought some generic weatherstripping and stuffed it in there. Glad I removed my wind deflector before putting the top on. I cut it the same length as the window.
Two areas were causing air leaks at the front corners: the striker and the point where the window seal met the windshield frame gasket. I used leftover seal pieces to shove into these spots. Don't have any pics of this because it's dark and tough to photograph. Sorry! For the sides (and this is still being worked on), I'm using insulation/foam and stuffing it in between the hardtop and the car's weatherstripping. You can see the yellow foam in this pic:
What you can't see is that stuff goes in about six inches. The only areas that the included rear seal seems to actually seal completely are the rear corners and the rear half of the carbon sides. I needed to use more material below the length of the rear window and the areas behind the side windows to stop air from rushing into the cabin. The front is now sealed but the sides are tougher to get right. I'm still getting some air coming in at highway speeds. Whatever you use, don't choose anything which makes noise when it experiences friction with rubber. The squeaking gets old fast and I still having some seal squeaking I can't track down. I think it's coming from the rear seal touching the trunk.
I'm afraid to take the top off because of the extra rubber I've added all over the place and having to redo it. It's way, way better now than it was the first time I drove it.
Customer Service - 9/10
I've already praised Alberto in his feedback thread. We worked something out for the damage the hardtop suffered in shipping that I'm ok with. He definitely cares that his customers are happy with him and his product. His concept of time sometimes sucks though and shipping dates tend to get pushed out. In the end, it was two months between sending payment and taking delivery. Still a solid s2ki sponsor. People shouldn't think twice about buying from him, especially since he's one of the few people who offers paint service.
Overall - 7.5/10
While it's a lot of cash for one of these if you spec it out with paint and some of the other options, it's still considerably cheaper than an OEM top or an authentic Mugen. The fitment is very good but lots of things aren't perfect and require your time to iron out. Also, I've pretty much learned that there's going to be some squeaking noises over some roads no matter what you do. If you're ok with that, go for it. I'm very happy with mine and thank Alberto for offering it.
Ok, here's what everyone wants to know. The mold is great guys! No issues with fitment worth mentioning. The tops sits on the car evenly and the side/rear gaps are consistent. The fitment along the windshield frame is particularly good. The driver side front corner fits tighter than the passenger side, but other than that, I'd say the fitment is about as good as any replica will get. Windows juuuuuust clear the hardtop by about 1/16" at the front corner. Not sure if anyone has had to remove their door panel and adjust the window height with these tops, but luckily for me it wasn't an issue.
The rear gap at center is about 3/8" and pretty much what I expected.
So you're going to install this thing and it's probably going to look really good like mine did. Then you're going to go for the first of many test drives. I spent two full Saturdays and one Sunday tweaking things. I'm still not done actually. The first drive I went on was pretty bad. Above 40 mph, there were air leaks at both front corners and both sides (section of the hardtop behind your shoulder). I noticed the rear seal below the entire length of the window wasn't touching the car leaving a 1/8" gap. But the worst of it was the hardtop on the passenger side creaking like a motherf@#ker where it met the bracket. It sounded like someone walking up an old staircase whenever I was rolling. Driver side was silent.
To fix the hardtop creaking, I tried using rubber washers, bolting it down with the front unlatched (and then trying with it latched), and some more stuff that didn't work. When bolting down the sides, I had someone push down on the top so I would get a snug fit. This was fine for the driver side, but the passenger side hated it. What ended up fixing it was unbolting it and then retightening without pushing down on it. Gaps on the outside still look the same.
For the gap between the rear seal attached to the hardtop and trunk, I bought some generic weatherstripping and stuffed it in there. Glad I removed my wind deflector before putting the top on. I cut it the same length as the window.
Two areas were causing air leaks at the front corners: the striker and the point where the window seal met the windshield frame gasket. I used leftover seal pieces to shove into these spots. Don't have any pics of this because it's dark and tough to photograph. Sorry! For the sides (and this is still being worked on), I'm using insulation/foam and stuffing it in between the hardtop and the car's weatherstripping. You can see the yellow foam in this pic:
What you can't see is that stuff goes in about six inches. The only areas that the included rear seal seems to actually seal completely are the rear corners and the rear half of the carbon sides. I needed to use more material below the length of the rear window and the areas behind the side windows to stop air from rushing into the cabin. The front is now sealed but the sides are tougher to get right. I'm still getting some air coming in at highway speeds. Whatever you use, don't choose anything which makes noise when it experiences friction with rubber. The squeaking gets old fast and I still having some seal squeaking I can't track down. I think it's coming from the rear seal touching the trunk.
I'm afraid to take the top off because of the extra rubber I've added all over the place and having to redo it. It's way, way better now than it was the first time I drove it.
Customer Service - 9/10
I've already praised Alberto in his feedback thread. We worked something out for the damage the hardtop suffered in shipping that I'm ok with. He definitely cares that his customers are happy with him and his product. His concept of time sometimes sucks though and shipping dates tend to get pushed out. In the end, it was two months between sending payment and taking delivery. Still a solid s2ki sponsor. People shouldn't think twice about buying from him, especially since he's one of the few people who offers paint service.
Overall - 7.5/10
While it's a lot of cash for one of these if you spec it out with paint and some of the other options, it's still considerably cheaper than an OEM top or an authentic Mugen. The fitment is very good but lots of things aren't perfect and require your time to iron out. Also, I've pretty much learned that there's going to be some squeaking noises over some roads no matter what you do. If you're ok with that, go for it. I'm very happy with mine and thank Alberto for offering it.
10-07-2011, 08:29 PM
#849
Former Sponsor
Thanks for your order
: ]
