Reapur

LoL just finished a DIY motor swap, so Im available, find a place to do it and provide tools then we can bang it out.

RabidRat

Update.

Bought a motor from Sonshine, did a leakdown test: 88% leakage cylinders 1 and 2, 55% leakage cylinder 3, 20% on cylinder 4.

It's toast.

So, I'm looking for a motor again.

If anyone has any leads, please let me know.

RabidRat

Actually here's another possibility:

myflys2k's got a good bottom end, so if anyone's got a head in good shape they'd like to sell, that could work too.

Reapur

So have you found out exactly whats wrong with your engine? Its possible you could just rebuild it using stronger parts for around the same cost of doing a swap. Unless there is a hole in the block or the cylinder walls are wrecked you should look into a rebuild instead of wasting time looking for a new engine in the GTA.

myflys2k

First things first. Get your money back from the place where you got the bad motor.

Get the shop thats working on your car/ or you to pull the head off your old motor and bring it to heimpel (or your shop) to get inspected to see if it's even worth fixing maybe it's fine. make sure to give them the specs for checking to see if the head and deck of the motor are within spec which you could also do yourself.

RabidRat

1) Bad motor is shipping back out on Sonshine Autoparts' dime tomorrow. They stated that they would refund my money as soon as it arrives and they inspect it.
What I'm hoping is that Sonshine will pay (out of goodwill) for the 3 shop hours I paid to do the leakdown test, and the shop's labor unpacking the motor, setting everything up, then having to pack everything back up and get the motor prepped send back out.

So far Sonshine has been great to deal with so I'm really hoping.

2) Two gaping holes on the sides of my block, the worst of them is 4 inches in diameter. From what I can remember, they said at least two rods had snapped, and one had torn the crank apart. At least one of the holes was caused by a motor mount ripping a chunk of metal right off the side of the block.

3) After some discussion (I've called several times about this now), the shop is now telling me they're pretty sure from how completely destroyed it all looks, the head is hosed, and best case scenario it'll be a month before they can get it through the machine shop, cleaned up, and put back together. They are now strongly advising against this route.

Reapur

If that's the case your best bet is to swap in an engine and call it a day

RabidRat

Yep.. funny how shit happens and you always think "it can't get any worse than this", and life ALWAYS finds a way to prove you wrong =).

RabidRat

Update: Finally got my car back together and running.

Ended up swapping in an AP2 engine / trans with 76k on it =)

Took way too long and cost way too much but damn I've missed my car lol

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Couple of things, maybe some of you out there might have advice:

1) The starter I bought grinds on cold starts. anyone got any tips or tricks with something like this?

2) I have to somehow get my key reprogrammed for the AP2 ECU. Meanwhile I have it bolted in, but the AP1 ECU is hanging by the harness wires next to my clutch. Bangs around every time I shift lol. Is there any way around bringing it to the dealership, as they'll probably rape me for all I've got? lol

3) I have my perfectly good AP1 trans sitting at the shop, and the owner is prone to charging to "store" things, or throwing customers' parts in the garbage without letting them know, so if any of you know anyone who wants a spare for cheap, let me know.

myflys2k

Why don't you stick to the ap1 ecu and either tune it slightly with a VAFC (just don't rev it past 8500) then get an AEM ems later.

There are a couple guys on this board running ap1 ecus 00-01 in their ap2s.