oil change
#21
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They were comparing the oil in general in any cars... who cares about what car it was in. Test results show that Amsoil last longer but you have to have a special oil filter. In my case, I change my oil every 6000-8000 km... I don't care if it could last over 20000 km.
#22
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Originally posted by mrs2k
They were comparing the oil in general in any cars... who cares about what car it was in. Test results show that Amsoil last longer but you have to have a special oil filter. In my case, I change my oil every 6000-8000 km... I don't care if it could last over 20000 km.
They were comparing the oil in general in any cars... who cares about what car it was in. Test results show that Amsoil last longer but you have to have a special oil filter. In my case, I change my oil every 6000-8000 km... I don't care if it could last over 20000 km.
it's like saying michelins are better than bridgestones....but, in what?? F1 racing or street tires?
#23
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by PLYRS 3
[B]
of course it matters what type of cars they were comparing it in....
it's like saying michelins are better than bridgestones....but, in what??
[B]
of course it matters what type of cars they were comparing it in....
it's like saying michelins are better than bridgestones....but, in what??
#24
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Castrol Syntec right now is a severly hydrocracked Group III oil, not a "true" synthetic oil based on PAO or Esters which are classified as Group IV or V. I'm not saying it won't perfrom but why pay more for a lesser product? M1 and Amsoil are very good synthetic oils.. You could easily go 10,000km in one interval, I have and so have many others with a used oil anaylsis to check the oil afterwards.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 grade, if it says Made in Germany on the label it's actually a European SLX formula which IS a true synthetic and worth the cost.
Castrol Syntec 0w30 grade, if it says Made in Germany on the label it's actually a European SLX formula which IS a true synthetic and worth the cost.
#27
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Anyone who wants to read about the comparison between Amsoil and Mobile 1, here is the link: http://www.pecuniary.com/newsletters/mobil...comparison.html
Enjoy...
Enjoy...
#29
Banned
This is what I did...
2000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
4000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
6000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
9000km change oil to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30
I now have 13,000km.
Since the 4000km change I havent had to add a drop of oil. Even with very frequent VTEC's with the synthetic and 4000km later, it still at the full mark.
I myself dont believe in the break in oil....Honda gets supplied oil from the manufacturer who can provide the lowest bid..and as long as its API/SAE approved 10W30 its all good.
You can go to Mobil 1 at an early interval there is no harm in doing.
Good Luck
2000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
4000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
6000km change oil to Valvoline All climate 10W30
9000km change oil to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30
I now have 13,000km.
Since the 4000km change I havent had to add a drop of oil. Even with very frequent VTEC's with the synthetic and 4000km later, it still at the full mark.
I myself dont believe in the break in oil....Honda gets supplied oil from the manufacturer who can provide the lowest bid..and as long as its API/SAE approved 10W30 its all good.
You can go to Mobil 1 at an early interval there is no harm in doing.
Good Luck
#30
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when i raced comp eliminator NHRA , our 287 inch engines were started on 10-30 penzoil, warmed up , cooled down, warmed again, reved to the rpm chip 8800 rpm , oil drained mobil 1 installed, ran, then a leakdown test done , we were always between 4-8% leakage, so the part about letting the rings break in is from the days when they ran chrome and cast rings ,with a fairly rough cylinder wall finish, today's engines with super smooth cylinders,and moly rings ,breakin time is almost instant, in my opinion, corvettes and alot of porches come with the synthetic already in,