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The “light switch” for my wife's craft light, the Dazor 1450HR, is no longer made. The company says there is no replacement available. It was originally made by Leviton in Chicago, which stopped making the switch after 10-15 years. Millions were sold. Dazor could not find another outsourcer worldwide and decided to make the switch themselves and did so for 17 years. However when their supply sold out management said it should stop making it because the lamps were over 20 years old and being replaced by LED lamps. This is a similar one:
Because a $5 part no longer available it is going to cost me $338 (some sources list just the top for $446) for a new LED top section for that floor lamp.
I’ve tried a couple after market switches. This one works, Selecta toggle switch SS207-7A-BG with 4 terminals, BUT it does not have enough amps to kickstart the florescent light bulb. Its only 20 amps and the sticker on the lamp calls for 38 amps. So it lights up and switches off/on but only a dim light for an inch or so on each side of the plug in from the ballast.
Any ideas? I have not been able to find anything in this style above 20 amps.
May be a long shot but check out consignment stores and habitat for humanity stores and you may be able to find a lamp that has that part on it that you can use. A parts lamp.
What kind of bulb does this lamp have? If it is fluorescent, maybe you can wire in a starter between the switch and the bulb. If you need a switch that can deliver more amps, maybe you can wire in a solenoid or relay that is activated by the lower amp switch you already have. If it were me I'd just buy a new LED craft light.
What kind of bulb does this lamp have? If it is fluorescent, maybe you can wire in a starter between the switch and the bulb. If you need a switch that can deliver more amps, maybe you can wire in a solenoid or relay that is activated by the lower amp switch you already have. If it were me I'd just buy a new LED craft light.
To answer your last remark first. Bill, this a floor model craft light used in our family room while she sits on a couch. It has a 42" swing with a large magnifying glass. So it's not a desk lamp. Not a craft room lamp. It's on the order of the kind they might have used in a hospital, etc. It was $300 over 20 years ago. The similar model now sells for over $600 complete at the manufacturer's site.
As for the bulb, it takes a circular 22 watt fluorescent bulb. There is no room for anything additional between the switch and the bulb other than the ballast, which is already there under a cover and putting out a nice 120v according to my voltmeter.
38 AMPS!!! What do you plug it into, a stove outlet? Sorry Dave but something does not sound right here.
Per sticker on lamp: 118 volts. 60 cycles. 38 ampers.
Does it need all 38? I don't know. But I do know that 20 is not enough. The original switch was not toggle. It was a push switch, that looks like it rotated in a circle with 2 red leads and 2 black leads in each corner. I've had it apart trying to figure out what makes it so rare. I know the normal house stuff only needs 20 amps.
Dave,
I would look carefully at the label.
I suspect that a decimal point has been obscured.
You stated the lamp is a 22 watt bulb.
At 118 volts 0.38 A would come in at 44 watts.
With start up surge you could hit 0.38 amps.
nominally you would be half that.
The other explanation is the phase of the current due to the lag induced by the starter decreases you efficiency,
hence requiring more apparent current but at a phase angle in the cycle when the voltage is less than 118.
38.0 amps would be a high for an oven. 4.4 kw. you'd need 6 or 8 gauge wiring in the cord and a NEMA twist lock connector to meet code.
Dave,
I would look carefully at the label.
I suspect that a decimal point has been obscured.
You stated the lamp is a 22 watt bulb.
At 118 volts 0.38 A would come in at 44 watts.
With start up surge you could hit 0.38 amps.
nominally you would be half that.
The other explanation is the phase of the current due to the lag induced by the starter decreases you efficiency,
hence requiring more apparent current but at a phase angle in the cycle when the voltage is less than 118.
38.0 amps would be a high for an oven. 4.4 kw. you'd need 6 or 8 gauge wiring in the cord and a NEMA twist lock connector to meet code.
Yup, this.
There is more to this story. You are not drawing 38 amps or even 20 on a standard 120V outlet. I suspect that your have a bulb or ballast issue or possibly have your switch mis-wired in some way. Is this an old "magnetic" ballast -- the type you need to hold a switch until the bulb fires and then release it?
09-12-2019, 04:39 PM
Need a lamp light switch
