S2000 Wash and Wax S2000 Wash and wax discussions, hints and tips.

Scary paint chip repair

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Old 08-20-2005, 08:12 AM
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You got a steal. They are about $100 or so at Lowes. Excellent write up btw.
Old 08-24-2005, 06:30 AM
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Quote "I cut out dime sized 1500 sand paper"

Thetz-
Could you explain how you did this? I'm not quite sure how you placed the dime-sized sand paper on the 6" disc of the PC. On the ftront leading edge? thanks! -j
Old 08-24-2005, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by david1,Dec 15 2004, 02:43 AM
A word of caution here guys. I have been detailing and wet sanding cars for 20 years. On factory paint you can do this ONE time. After a second time you will be through the clearcoat and have to repaint. Also, you never use a DA with sandpaper attached, this is only done to prep the surface for a repaint.

Also, do not try this amount of repair with pearl paints. Your car will look like it has chicken pox.

Go get yourself a product called Lanka ( will have to find the web site again). No sanding required. Fill the chip, let dry, wipe off with Lanka and done. No sanding needed and you save your clear coat.
So what is this Lanka? I tried googling it, but I can't find it probably because the links for SriLanka appear first. I'd be interested in finding more about it as I am just about to start doing a little wet sanding myself - decided to finally fix some of those pesky chips in my nose. Damn, I wish I knew about clear bras when I bought my S. Oh well. Thanks in advance.
Old 08-24-2005, 08:21 AM
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That's because it's Langka, not Lanka.
http://www.langka.com/
Old 08-24-2005, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by skyman00,Aug 24 2005, 10:30 AM
Quote "I cut out dime sized 1500 sand paper"

Thetz-
Could you explain how you did this? I'm not quite sure how you placed the dime-sized sand paper on the 6" disc of the PC. On the ftront leading edge? thanks! -j
whoa! No, please don't use the PC to wetsand the car with. You'll have yourself a power sander, and you can kiss your clearcoat goodbye. Wetsand by hand very gently, with very little pressure.

Hopefully Thetz will chime in and explain his process to you.
Old 08-24-2005, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by fanoftheliving,Aug 24 2005, 11:28 AM
So what is this Lanka? I tried googling it, but I can't find it probably because the links for SriLanka appear first. I'd be interested in finding more about it as I am just about to start doing a little wet sanding myself - decided to finally fix some of those pesky chips in my nose. Damn, I wish I knew about clear bras when I bought my S. Oh well. Thanks in advance.
There's a link to Langka in the very first post on this page.

Also, my post in Dec. '04 (also on this page) has a link to an old thread with people's impressions of the product.
Old 08-24-2005, 11:18 AM
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[QUOTE=thetz99,Nov 23 2004, 05:38 PM] Yes I lubricated the 1500 sandpaper like I would a claybar when I took down the paint pimples.
Old 08-24-2005, 11:24 AM
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BTW I am selling my Langka kit, $23 shipped! Pm me.
Old 08-24-2005, 11:40 AM
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This was my PC technique . I found blue taping off half the hood helped me see where I was/how much I had left.

Sonus orange pad with menzerna intensive polish. This combo will make the swirls disappear in one application. Use highest speed.

I spritz my pad with detailing spray first (I have zaino z6),

put an X of product on the pad with a dot of product in every quadrant;

Smear the pad/product on my 2' x 2' work square on paint surface;

with machine on surface, switch it on

slight pressure on machine, let the pad move

do figure 8's in one direction, then both diaganols, then 90 degrees to where you started until the product disappears. Rarely should you have any residue.

Check your work, if not happy/see swirls/scuff mark still there , repeat with another product application ... The 1500 scuff marks can take up to 10 applications.
Old 08-24-2005, 03:23 PM
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I am intrigued by a post I found on another site using claybar instead of wet sanding

There are different clay grades here as I think some might be too fine...

http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/detailingclay.html



...................................

Here's what I did...........Masked off right up to the chip to eliminate getting touch up paint on the regular paint level. Applied two light coats to build the level slightly higher than the regular paint. I waited 10 minutes between coats. 10 minutes after the second coat I removed the tape and all that was left was touch up paint in the chip that was slightly higher than the level of the regular paint.

I waited 12 hours then clayed it and its abolutely perfectly smooth!!! Only ***** is the touch up color is darker than the regular paint but only I will ever notice that.

Thank you to both kompressornsc and JMSC for this suggestion. I have experimented in the past with compounding and wet sanding only to be dissapointed. This technique worked like a charm for me. My advice for those who havent had success is perhaps not allowing the touch up to cure completely?? perhaps claying it after a few hours might take it down.

.......................


DEFINITELY LESS SCARY!!


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