Scary paint chip repair
12-09-2004, 06:37 AM
#21
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Great job. I've recently started using the PC myself and love it. I've been trying to pick out the best polish combination, and wondered how you liked the menzerna products. I want something that is going to be strong enough to take out wetsanding marks like you've done here. The intensive polish looks like it did a great job of taking them out, and then the final polish brought back the gloss and prepped the finish for zaino. When you said you had to go over the area 8-10 times with the intensive polish, was that just because the sanding marks had not been removed after a couple of passes? Do you think following the 1500 with 2000 grit will help with this?
I'm trying to get up the courage to wetsand too. I think I'll stick to doing it by hand though instead of using the PC, which you said you may try in the future. I'm just having horrible thoughts of the PC getting out of control... with sand paper attached!
Thanks for the great thread. It helps to have a visual when you're thinking of attempting this.
I'm trying to get up the courage to wetsand too. I think I'll stick to doing it by hand though instead of using the PC, which you said you may try in the future. I'm just having horrible thoughts of the PC getting out of control... with sand paper attached!
Thanks for the great thread. It helps to have a visual when you're thinking of attempting this.
12-09-2004, 07:03 AM
#22
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Yes that was 8-10 separate applications of polish where you work it until there is no product left to remove some of the scuff marks. It averaged about 5-7. The reason I will go with a prep 2000 wet sanding before polish next time is because some of scuffs have irregularities that at certain angles of flourescent light show up. I think an orbital prep would blend these irregularities out. (Edit: I tried the sandpaper on the pc and it's not worth the risk )
Of the menzerna products, the intensive polish really cut the swirls immediately in the paint that had no scuff marks so in the future that is what I would use for swirls and scuffs. The final polish didn't produce as dramatic affects, but I was in a hurry by that time in the process so that could have clouded my opinion then.
Now that I have familiarity with how the pc behaves, I am confident I could control it with sandpaper attached. (Edit: I tried the sandpaper on the pc and it's not worth the risk ) I would be hesitant on being too close to any odd curves or emblem as I noticed the pc doesn't get into the nooks and crannies very well.
Of the menzerna products, the intensive polish really cut the swirls immediately in the paint that had no scuff marks so in the future that is what I would use for swirls and scuffs. The final polish didn't produce as dramatic affects, but I was in a hurry by that time in the process so that could have clouded my opinion then.
Now that I have familiarity with how the pc behaves, I am confident I could control it with sandpaper attached. (Edit: I tried the sandpaper on the pc and it's not worth the risk ) I would be hesitant on being too close to any odd curves or emblem as I noticed the pc doesn't get into the nooks and crannies very well.
12-11-2004, 11:15 PM
#24
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A pc (porter cable) is a random orbital sander/buffer. There are various color-coded pads that can be used on the pc that vary according to the job at hand. Various combinations of polish and pad provide different degrees of "cutting" power (amount of paint/clearcoat removed for every pass).
A clear bra is pretty much just a 6-9 mm clear vinyl protectant that you squegee onto a prepped paint job. Labor intensive and I think a well done job runs about 500-1000 bucks.
Typically questions like yours get you flamed for being too lazy to do a search on the subject. These topics have pretty much been covered 100's of times over the past 5 years...
A clear bra is pretty much just a 6-9 mm clear vinyl protectant that you squegee onto a prepped paint job. Labor intensive and I think a well done job runs about 500-1000 bucks.
Typically questions like yours get you flamed for being too lazy to do a search on the subject. These topics have pretty much been covered 100's of times over the past 5 years...
12-14-2004, 05:43 PM
#25
A word of caution here guys. I have been detailing and wet sanding cars for 20 years. On factory paint you can do this ONE time. After a second time you will be through the clearcoat and have to repaint. Also, you never use a DA with sandpaper attached, this is only done to prep the surface for a repaint.
Also, do not try this amount of repair with pearl paints. Your car will look like it has chicken pox.
Go get yourself a product called Lanka ( will have to find the web site again). No sanding required. Fill the chip, let dry, wipe off with Lanka and done. No sanding needed and you save your clear coat.
Also, do not try this amount of repair with pearl paints. Your car will look like it has chicken pox.
Go get yourself a product called Lanka ( will have to find the web site again). No sanding required. Fill the chip, let dry, wipe off with Lanka and done. No sanding needed and you save your clear coat.
12-14-2004, 06:07 PM
#26
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