Porter Cable Questions
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 695
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Porter Cable Questions
Just got the porter cable for Christmas. I have read multiple posts about this, and still had a few questions.
-from what I read, 3M swirl remover is the best for removing swirls on the whole car
-what kind of prep do I need to do before I use this?
-what kind of pads do I need?
-how hard do I push?
-how many times can I do this before I eat through the clear coat?
-any other advice is helpful
I did read the autopia site, and it was helpful. Just trying to get more concise info on this. I have a Berlina, and it is difficult to keep the way I like it. I want people to look at it and think "Now thats a nice paint job!"
Wanabe, you are full of info, and anything you have to add would be great. I know how hard you work on keeping your car perfect.
-from what I read, 3M swirl remover is the best for removing swirls on the whole car
-what kind of prep do I need to do before I use this?
-what kind of pads do I need?
-how hard do I push?
-how many times can I do this before I eat through the clear coat?
-any other advice is helpful
I did read the autopia site, and it was helpful. Just trying to get more concise info on this. I have a Berlina, and it is difficult to keep the way I like it. I want people to look at it and think "Now thats a nice paint job!"
Wanabe, you are full of info, and anything you have to add would be great. I know how hard you work on keeping your car perfect.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Covington
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lots of questions ....
Products: I have used Meguiar's #83 / #80 and Menzurna IP / FP I will be trying Poorboys SSR 2.5 / 1.0 next year. I have not tried the 3 M products.
Pads: Sonus DAS pds or LC Pads
Procedure:
Always start with the least agressive product / pad (e.g. #80 or FP on a polishing Pad) and get more aggressive only if necessary. If you need to get more agressive step up the polish (e.g. #83 and IP) first, If still not aggressive enough, switch to the cutting pad. The key is get a good product and stick with it to "learn" it. Swirl removal is all about product and technique.
Pre Swirl
1) Wash
2) Tar removal
3) Clay
4) Rinse and Dry
Work in small 2x2 sections
1)Soak the pad with product by making a big X with the product on the pad
2)Place the pad on the car and spread the product over the 2x2 section at a speed of 2-3
3)Crank the PC to 5-6 and work the product over the section in an "Across, Up&down, Diagonal" pattern. Keep working the product until it starts to break down (i.e. dusts). The amount of pressure is set by pushing down until you hear the PC start to bog then back-of so it is not bogging down. Remember you got the machine let it do the work; you are only the guide.
4) After product has broken down, remove with MF towel.
5) If there are still swirls step up the product and or pad and repeat steps 1-4
6) If you ended up using the most abrasive polish / pad you will most likely have to repeat the process with a less agressive polish (e.g. FP, #80 SSR 1.0) to remove buffer haze or cloudiness.
Again ... It's 90% process / 10% product. Pick a product and stick with it and learn how to use it.
Products: I have used Meguiar's #83 / #80 and Menzurna IP / FP I will be trying Poorboys SSR 2.5 / 1.0 next year. I have not tried the 3 M products.
Pads: Sonus DAS pds or LC Pads
Procedure:
Always start with the least agressive product / pad (e.g. #80 or FP on a polishing Pad) and get more aggressive only if necessary. If you need to get more agressive step up the polish (e.g. #83 and IP) first, If still not aggressive enough, switch to the cutting pad. The key is get a good product and stick with it to "learn" it. Swirl removal is all about product and technique.
Pre Swirl
1) Wash
2) Tar removal
3) Clay
4) Rinse and Dry
Work in small 2x2 sections
1)Soak the pad with product by making a big X with the product on the pad
2)Place the pad on the car and spread the product over the 2x2 section at a speed of 2-3
3)Crank the PC to 5-6 and work the product over the section in an "Across, Up&down, Diagonal" pattern. Keep working the product until it starts to break down (i.e. dusts). The amount of pressure is set by pushing down until you hear the PC start to bog then back-of so it is not bogging down. Remember you got the machine let it do the work; you are only the guide.
4) After product has broken down, remove with MF towel.
5) If there are still swirls step up the product and or pad and repeat steps 1-4
6) If you ended up using the most abrasive polish / pad you will most likely have to repeat the process with a less agressive polish (e.g. FP, #80 SSR 1.0) to remove buffer haze or cloudiness.
Again ... It's 90% process / 10% product. Pick a product and stick with it and learn how to use it.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: columbia, sc
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3M swirl remover may not do the best job at REMOVING swirls. What I mean is that this product has fillers in it that remain on the paint after polishing, and fill in the swirl marks. It will remove the swirls slightly, but it also fills in the swirls to make it appear as if they have been removed. If this is what you are setting out to do then cool, but some people would rather remove the swirls all together. If this is what you're after then a polish without any fillers would be best. Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish were mentioned above and are polishes without any fillers. They seem to be pretty good products and a lot of people at autopia use them.
What you may want to do is use something with fillers (the 3M stuff) periodically, say every 3-4 months as it is a very mild abrasive to fill the swirls. Then maybe once a year use something w/out fillers to take out the swirls completely. This might be too frequent, but you get the idea. Hopefully wanabe will chime in, because I think he uses a similar technique. Try searching for topics about the PC.
What you may want to do is use something with fillers (the 3M stuff) periodically, say every 3-4 months as it is a very mild abrasive to fill the swirls. Then maybe once a year use something w/out fillers to take out the swirls completely. This might be too frequent, but you get the idea. Hopefully wanabe will chime in, because I think he uses a similar technique. Try searching for topics about the PC.
#5
wow- lotsa questions and some great answers above!
the main thing i would add to the ideas above is to try your new machine on another car first, if you can... if you dont have another car (wife's car, beater car, or whatever) you prob have a friend with a beater sorta car who would be happy for you to learn.
i learned on one of my own cars many years ago, but by waxing and removing product with the machine before i learned to polish.
not likely that you will mess anything up, but you will learn a lot and gain confidence after the first use.
prob my main tip you might have seen before- with polish, you gotta really work the stuff- its not like waxing.
and after you polish (thats what swirl removal is), you need to rewax/ or synthetic coat the car-
if you really wanna go all out like you suggest, use an enthusiast product like zaino, klasse, etc.
----------
edited to add:
gotta note from a friend who thought that my post above might be misleading... i suggested that you use another car for your first try not cause you might mess it up (not worried about that), but because you will be more relaxed and not as worried about messing it up. its much more fun when you are relaxed... and then you find out that it really is easy and fun and you are ready to do your car!
the main thing i would add to the ideas above is to try your new machine on another car first, if you can... if you dont have another car (wife's car, beater car, or whatever) you prob have a friend with a beater sorta car who would be happy for you to learn.
i learned on one of my own cars many years ago, but by waxing and removing product with the machine before i learned to polish.
not likely that you will mess anything up, but you will learn a lot and gain confidence after the first use.
prob my main tip you might have seen before- with polish, you gotta really work the stuff- its not like waxing.
and after you polish (thats what swirl removal is), you need to rewax/ or synthetic coat the car-
if you really wanna go all out like you suggest, use an enthusiast product like zaino, klasse, etc.
----------
edited to add:
gotta note from a friend who thought that my post above might be misleading... i suggested that you use another car for your first try not cause you might mess it up (not worried about that), but because you will be more relaxed and not as worried about messing it up. its much more fun when you are relaxed... and then you find out that it really is easy and fun and you are ready to do your car!
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: behind the wheel
Posts: 782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got one. I am just learning to use it. This site has some good info http://www.properautocare.com/problemsolving.html.
Good advise to practice on a different car. I practiced on my mother-in-law
Good advise to practice on a different car. I practiced on my mother-in-law