Porter Cable 7424 vs Makita 9227C
#1
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Porter Cable 7424 vs Makita 9227C
Hello Guys,
I'm a begginer on this stuff to wax my car, and i really want to do it by myself. I love to take care of my car.
I hate do it by hands and i'm thinking to get some machine to help me. I've been reading a lot of topics and websites, but i don't know wich one to buy.
Porter Cable 7424 or Makita 9227C?
i'm looking for something easy to use with great results, since both have same price range
thanks guys
I'm a begginer on this stuff to wax my car, and i really want to do it by myself. I love to take care of my car.
I hate do it by hands and i'm thinking to get some machine to help me. I've been reading a lot of topics and websites, but i don't know wich one to buy.
Porter Cable 7424 or Makita 9227C?
i'm looking for something easy to use with great results, since both have same price range
thanks guys
#3
The answer is "it depends." I've owned both - I sold my PC to buy a Makita.
The PC is a wonderful tool, and is very safe. A car that looks "pretty good" can be made to look great with a PC and the right pads and polishes.
The same can be said of the Makita - or any high speed rotary for that matter. The rotary (Makita) is always going to be faster, more powerful, and capable of correcting more serious paint flaws in less time. However, with this power comes the possibility of damaging your paint.
What I've done is gathered up some junk trunks and fenders to practice on, before I unleash my Makita on any car I actually like. I'd recommend this over practicing on a "beater" car - because one day, you're probably going to want to sell that beater car. The spare body panels you can just recycle.
And what SpecC says is right. There's not really any need to apply wax with a rotary. In fact, I prefer applying wax by hand - it's a heck of a lot easier to get around small areas (like windshield headers and rear view mirrors) without having to maneuver the machine around.
The PC is a wonderful tool, and is very safe. A car that looks "pretty good" can be made to look great with a PC and the right pads and polishes.
The same can be said of the Makita - or any high speed rotary for that matter. The rotary (Makita) is always going to be faster, more powerful, and capable of correcting more serious paint flaws in less time. However, with this power comes the possibility of damaging your paint.
What I've done is gathered up some junk trunks and fenders to practice on, before I unleash my Makita on any car I actually like. I'd recommend this over practicing on a "beater" car - because one day, you're probably going to want to sell that beater car. The spare body panels you can just recycle.
And what SpecC says is right. There's not really any need to apply wax with a rotary. In fact, I prefer applying wax by hand - it's a heck of a lot easier to get around small areas (like windshield headers and rear view mirrors) without having to maneuver the machine around.
#4
o.k., now for the contrarian point of view...
my vote for a newbe is the pc. you cant damage the paint, unless your really try hard, with the pc. you can damage paint with the makita (or any other non random orbital).
and my fav way to get "machine feel" is to wax with the pc. drop the wax outta the can with a gloved hand and rub it on a no cut pad. wax on the car, and then either buff by mf or by the machine with a lambswool pad covered by mf pad. diff waxes require diff cure time (for example p21s wants to be wiped on and then wiped off immediately). i love to do this- its more work, but its also more fun imo. i admit that i dont usually wax with the machine anymore, but thats cause i now am doing a lot more wax by fingers!!
so i would go pc first until you have used it awhile and are comfortable with it, then move up to the makita (if you really need to). the pc works for 90%+ of the stuff that i do...
and my closing thought- this is all opinion, and mine is the conservative one. neither opinion is better than the other... just personal preferences.
my vote for a newbe is the pc. you cant damage the paint, unless your really try hard, with the pc. you can damage paint with the makita (or any other non random orbital).
and my fav way to get "machine feel" is to wax with the pc. drop the wax outta the can with a gloved hand and rub it on a no cut pad. wax on the car, and then either buff by mf or by the machine with a lambswool pad covered by mf pad. diff waxes require diff cure time (for example p21s wants to be wiped on and then wiped off immediately). i love to do this- its more work, but its also more fun imo. i admit that i dont usually wax with the machine anymore, but thats cause i now am doing a lot more wax by fingers!!
so i would go pc first until you have used it awhile and are comfortable with it, then move up to the makita (if you really need to). the pc works for 90%+ of the stuff that i do...
and my closing thought- this is all opinion, and mine is the conservative one. neither opinion is better than the other... just personal preferences.
#5
there's no question that the makita has better correcting abilities, but the porter cable is often the better choice for detailing noobs (like myself). on honda paint with the rights pads and polish, it will be more than enough remove swirls, marring, etc.
#6
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i knew makita was more professional
i was just make the question because they have almost the same price, but i'll get the PC, be good in my friends EJ1 beater, hehe
next topic: the best pads and polich for your NFR s2k
i was just make the question because they have almost the same price, but i'll get the PC, be good in my friends EJ1 beater, hehe
next topic: the best pads and polich for your NFR s2k
#7
I think I've changed my mind.
Went and picked up some junkyard VW parts - an A2 Jetta front fender in black, and a Passat trunk lid. There's this lip - sort of like a really large character line - that runs all the way down the Jetta fender. I wasn't even trying to work on that part of the panel - just the "upper portion" of it, if you will.
Yep - burned all the paint right off one part of that lip. Wasn't paying enough attention.
So, I've changed my mind. First buffer? Porter Cable. And then don't be an idiot like me and sell it - instead, keep it - when you decide to get a rotary.
Went and picked up some junkyard VW parts - an A2 Jetta front fender in black, and a Passat trunk lid. There's this lip - sort of like a really large character line - that runs all the way down the Jetta fender. I wasn't even trying to work on that part of the panel - just the "upper portion" of it, if you will.
Yep - burned all the paint right off one part of that lip. Wasn't paying enough attention.
So, I've changed my mind. First buffer? Porter Cable. And then don't be an idiot like me and sell it - instead, keep it - when you decide to get a rotary.
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#9
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Originally Posted by caiock,Sep 27 2008, 03:28 PM
i knew makita was more professional
i was just make the question because they have almost the same price, but i'll get the PC, be good in my friends EJ1 beater, hehe
next topic: the best pads and polich for your NFR s2k
i was just make the question because they have almost the same price, but i'll get the PC, be good in my friends EJ1 beater, hehe
next topic: the best pads and polich for your NFR s2k
Its a kit that includes the porter cable and pretty much EVERYTHING you need to start using it. I would suggest buying this kit and going to a local junkyard and picking up some doors/hoods/trunks so you can practice on. All youll need is car washing supplies which shouldnt be more than 2-300.