HondaGal

What is the difference between meguiars Hand Polish and Swirl remover. I have both products, and want to try and remove a few scratches, light scratches. Which is the better product to use and why. Is there any harm in using both products on the car?

elbee

The swirl remover #9 is a hair stronger than the polish, I assume pro line in the tan bottles?

Try just the 9, if that looks great, top with wax. Otherwise use the polish after the 9, then wax. They are very similar products, though. You probably won't need both.

HondaGal

Thank you elbee, this is what I was hoping for regarding the strength.

s2ksimon

i always go conservatively and always try the less aggressive compound first as a rule of thumb

HondaGal

I have read this, but I didn't know which was the lesser of the products.

Another quesiton... is there specific numbers to set the PC on when using various products. Like 1 for compound/swirl remover, etc etc..

animeS2K

Typically, because the PC is not a very aggressive machine, you'll want to dial it up a bit. For example, with most Swirl Mark Removers, you want to run it at 5-6 to really get any effect out of them at all. Even with compounds, 4-5 is needed to break them down properly and get them to work, but it depends on the product. With polishes and compounds you want to use plenty of product - say a 5-point star for something like Meguiar's #83 DACP, working it just until it starts to clear, but not so long that it dusts and your dry pad is rubbing the paint (causing marring).

*edit* - this is, of course, also somewhat dependent on what pad you're using. I believe the saying is, when stepping up aggressiveness, pad first, then product. (i.e. stronger pad, then if that doesn't work, stronger product). I hope i didn't get that mixed up

I would use 1-2 for applying a wax, but crank it up higher for polishes and glazes and stop right as they begin to clear, get to wiping with a clean/dry MF.

There's tons of info on using a PC with different products over at www.autopia.org forums. Do a few searches and you'll likely end up a little confused, but stick with it

Also, this is a handy-dandy chart I stumbled across today over at Autopia:
http://dano.pocketrubbish.com/detail...oductchart.htm

Good luck with it!

petraidm

I was just going to post that link

Typically I use only #83 (heavy duty) and #80 (light duty) ... #80 80 leaves the car looking fantastic.

I gave up on #9 after using #83 and #80 with the PC

SECRET AP1

If you're trying to remove scratches that are deeper than your average swirl, you're going to have to make quite a few passes even with something like #83. You may need to move from a polish to a compound to do scratch removal if the scratch is bad. Be careful though. I wouldn't use a compound unless you're very confident with the PC and you know when to stop.

#83 is probably your best bet. I would avoid any of the SMRs as they generally fill while removing swirls [although there are rumors that #83 fills a bit as well].

animeS2K

Regarding SMRs - if they do fill, that means that you shouldn't use a synthetic like Zaino on top, because some of the bonding abilities of the synthetic will be compromised. If you plan on using a carnauba, it shouldn't be an issue. They do usually have some abrasive qualities, but they're very light.

Fill, in my opinion, is not a bad thing if you understand that's what you're doing and that it is not a permanent fix. The less clear you have to remove, the better (even tho via PC you're talking about a relatively small amount), the deepest wettest look relies on good prep of a nice thick clearcoat

SECRET AP1

I think what you're saying is true to an extent. However, I've spent some time here and there looking for specific information regarding the mechanism that governs the "bonding" action of a synthetic wax, but I suspect this technology is proprietary to each company, so it is a bit difficult to gauge whether or not a machine glaze or filler will affect the staying power of a synthetic or natural wax. This leads into my question of why you think natural waxes wouldn't have a problem with filler laiden surfaces while synthetics will. Any information to back that idea? I'm just curious.

Speaking of Zaino (you had to get me started huh? )... well I'll start a new thread so I don't hijack this one.