Webfoot

So I got a new PC buffer for X-Mas, but it did not come with any pads. I have two black DD to do some serious work on and some spider webs in my GPW AP2.

Currently I have been hand buffing with 1Z einszett Paint Polish 'Lack Politur' and 1Z einszett Glanz Wax on my S2K and using Finish First on my daily drivers. Do i need to change up my products to use with a buffer? Will these products work with a buffer long enough to finish the cans? What pads/plates should I pick up?

Thanks in advance Wackos.

Boosted_Talon

For removing swirls, I like Menzerna Intensive Polish, followed by PO85RD (finishing polish). Your current products will work with a buffer, although the results may not be as good as Menzerna, etc. If the swirls are very very bad, you may have to use Menzerna Super Intensive Polish, followed by Micro polish, then PO85RD. This is just my $.02. I know others have different opinions though.

MikeyC

If you're detailing cars that are at different levels of condition then you'll need polishes & pads to create differing levels of aggressiveness to deal with them.

Personally, I would want to have a minimum of 2-3 different levels of polish and 3-5 different level of pads.

While your 1Z will most certainly still work, I also really like Menzerna polishes and if you're going down that road I would get:

PO85RD (great jeweling polish)
106FA (finishing polish)
PO85RD 3.02 (a/k/a Super Intensive Polish)
Powergloss (for serious compounding)

I almost never use my Powergloss but I like to have it just in case and you could also get away with not having PO85RD, but the middle two I would say are must haves. The PO85RD though IMO is the finest "jeweling" polish on the market. You could also sub out the two middle polishes with Meguiar's 105 & 205 which are really popular right now. Personally, I prefer the Menzerna but the Megs polishes are much cheaper. I find when using them though that you need a lot of extra pads though as they "gum up" quickly.

For pads I would buy 2-3 of the following (using Uber colors as example but certainly there are many good pad brands available):

Waxing pad (back)
Polishing pad (green)
Med Polish (orange)
Compounding (yellow)

I almost never use a compounding pad, but again it's a nice thing to have just in case. Also, if you want to apply your wax/sealant using your buffer you should get an extra waxing pad. Personally, I use my waxing pads with PO85RD for "jeweling" the paint. I don't apply wax/sealant using my buffer. If you're not going to "jewel" and you're not applying wax/sealant with the buffer then you don't need any black pads.

wanabe

another 'i agree'-
would add that finish first is called a polish, but its actually a great synthetic protectant - keep it for protection, not polishing.

Webfoot

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Couple more quick questions.

What is the rule of thumb on the pad size? I have seen everything from 4" to 6".

What is the best route to go as far as diameter on the pads?

Do I need to pick up backer plates for pads?


Thanks again Wackos.

MikeyC

I would recommend getting a 5" and a 3.5" backing plate. I would also recommend getting pads in both 4" and 5.5" (or 6") size.

Being able to switch down to 4" pads will allow you to spot polish more easily and also allow you to get the polisher into tighter areas.

Personally, I use a Flex which doesn't have an option for a smaller backing plate. So, I just got a Griot's 3" RO to perform that function.