S2000 Wash and Wax S2000 Wash and wax discussions, hints and tips.

How does this wash/wax cleaning routine look?

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Old 07-20-2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tsuinami,Jul 20 2006, 01:36 PM
Thanks for all the great advice everyone.

Hmmm from your post it seems that that microfiber towels are not reuseable?
They're certainly reuseable - just throw them in the wash. However, it seems like you can never have enough towels and it's nice to have a decent arsenal of towels at your disposal when you're cleaning your car. Try not to use the same towel for multiple purposes (ie. don't wipe down your car with quick detailer and then use the same rag to buff your leather)

Here's what I do when I wash my car:

After washing the car, I dry it with the waffle weave towel.
Then I open the trunk and doors and use a microfiber towel to dry whatever is still wet. I also dry the wheels with this rag. (I try not to use my waffle weave towels on these bits as it can get a bit grimey and I would rather mess up an mf towel than my ww towel)
I use yet another towel to do the windows inside an out with stoners window cleaner
Another towel is used to buff the leather and vinyl bits after apply leather condition/cleaner and 303
After the whole car is done, I use another towel to go around touching up with quick detailer (waterspots, water dribbles that have dried, etc)

Hope that helped!
Old 07-20-2006, 05:11 PM
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i didnt read all the post but for the most part your getting in some more great advice. if you want one stop shopping your gonna have to rewax often because wal-mart and auto parts stores dont care high quality wax. i use mothers carnubas (it was like 13 bucks for a can of paste wax and wax every month)

big thing with micro fiber towels.... if your not working on concrete or if your on dirty conctete dont drop them. they pick up any small twigs, leave particles, anything.... its a PITA to clean off. but as said, throw them in the wash with warm water. you might wanna pre-bath them in a sink of dawn to get the wax off the ones you have used for buffing as im not sure if laundry soap is strong enough. BTW, if you have a local SAMs you can get 25 towels for like 6 to 8 bucks i believe.

if your still having troubles with your 303 top protectant most marine/boating stores should have it.

most clay bars will come with quick detailer but if not you will need to buy some. i got meguires clay bar (with spray) for 8.99 at a local O' rileys. also, another product you need to be careful not to drop. and also be very very liberal with the spray. only do one pannel at a time or the spray might evaporate. if it hasnt been discussed you need to rewash/ hose off the car after claying the entire thing. and make sure the car is in shade the entire time and hasnt been ran for a while so the hood isnt heated.
Old 08-01-2006, 11:01 AM
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I finally got the cleaning products this past Friday through UPS and got her all cleaned up over the weekend. Because of the current heatwave in NYC, I tried waiting until 5pm to start doing it but then I ended up using the lexol in the dark. Havent been able to take a good look at her yet since then becuase I get home late from work on the weekdays but some observations:

1) When I apply Klasse AIO to one part of the car using one nickel sized amount on the applicator pad as the instructions said, I can barely see anything I need to buff off. In fact, in most parts of the car with the unbuffed AIO on it, it looked like I didnt apply anything at all. Are the instructions being too conservative on the amount applied or am I just doing it wrong?
I didnt want too long for it to dry since the instructions said it's more of a wax on wax off thing. I dont understand why some members on this forum were saying in other threads how AIO is hard to remove sometimes.

2) Same with the Klasse SG. In most cases after application I couldnt see anything on the car. What am I doing wrong? The car does look shinier than before but not by THAT much--probably because the car was supposedly detailed a few weeks before I got it from the dealer.

3)Probably need to claybar the hood and front bumper as the sides and back of the car were really smooth but the hood felt like there were minor bumps here and there. (I did the test for the claybar starting from the back of the car...bad idea). Do I need to rewax when I use the claybar next time I wash?

4) I've never noticed so many paint chips before until after the wash...

Also, next time I want to wax the car along with a wash I need to add some laundry detergent to the Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo I am using to take off the old wax? Or will Klasse AIO do everything for me?
Old 08-01-2006, 12:18 PM
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clay bars remove wax. you can also wash with 3 tablespoons of dawn rather than meguires wash. next time you get a chance go to a part of the car people hardly see and use a little extra wax than you did before to see if there is a difference. also, wax is hard to remove when its let dry "haze" to long. some waxes the longer is hazes the better but youde have to consult someone using your wax to know about that.
Old 08-01-2006, 12:23 PM
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You're using AIO and SG correctly... you really shouldn't see the stuff as you're applying. The makers always say "whisper thin" layer of the stuff on the car. Also, you can apply SG immediately for extra durability, but you won't get more shine until you let the layer cure (min 8 hours but most people agree to wait a week). Also, this is harder to see on a SS =p.

whenever you clay bar, you definately should re-seal/wax.

AIO is a chemical cleaner that will remove everything =p. Some guys use a capful of AIO instead of car wash.
Old 08-01-2006, 12:23 PM
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Oh yeah... and 303 also looks great on the tires =). Very easy to apply.
Old 08-02-2006, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by blurnj13,Aug 1 2006, 12:23 PM
Oh yeah... and 303 also looks great on the tires =). Very easy to apply.
The Aerospace Cleaner? I thought that was for the vinyl interior?
I used eagle one tire wash the other day--that was not bad.
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