Help With Swirl marks
11-08-2006, 08:38 AM
#52
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Improper use will cause swirls...so will hand application of soap, polish, wax, etc. It's not the machine that causes the problem. It's the improper use of it as well as the products used. I use Griots porter cable because it modified and has a fan mounted about the backing plate to further insure that the plate stay nice and cool. I'm not sure if that something that's exclusive to them or if it's some kinda of option.
Like I mentioned earlier, it's worth the 20 bucks to get that DVD from showcargarage.com. The guys did a really good job of documenting everything you need to know to be successful. After that you'll be able to make good product decisions relative to you needs.
Like I mentioned earlier, it's worth the 20 bucks to get that DVD from showcargarage.com. The guys did a really good job of documenting everything you need to know to be successful. After that you'll be able to make good product decisions relative to you needs.
11-08-2006, 08:42 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by GranPrix,Nov 8 2006, 12:01 PM
But isn't a random orbital one of the causes of swirls or am I just not knowing what the hell I'm doing?
The most popular and versatile R/O is what people refer to as the PC. It's an R/O sold under multiple model numbers (7424, 7336SP, and others). Meguiar's also sells the PC under model number G100. Regardless of the model number all three are the exact same machine.
FYI, the cheapest place to buy the PC (new) is Lowe's where it's sold under model 7336SP. You can sign up for a 10% off coupon under the moving section of Lowes.com. You can also find cheap PCs on e-bay, but you have less buyer security.
11-08-2006, 08:58 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by animeS2K,Nov 8 2006, 11:49 AM
What's so funny about my post?
Yes, I'm basing my decisions off of personal experience, but also off of experience of tens, if not hundreds of experienced detailers around the world. Magic of the internet and all that... How the hell am I supposed to provide hard data on "ease of use" or working time or ease of application and removal? Hell, I'm not even talking about the *more* subjective measures of appearance. Some of these measures I mention - performance of a polish - are not subjective. It either removes swirls and finishes down very nicely without excessive dusting or it doesn't.
As far as opinions as to how long a wax will last? Well, there's the Guru report if you really want to get anal about that kind of thing. Otherwise, again - there's relative, subjective data available from thousands of applications of different waxes by people around the world in all kinds of weather and use conditions.
I hardly think my postulation that concourse and museum use is one of the easiest jobs for a wax is far-fetched.
And, like you, many of us have gone through garages full of products and made up our minds as to what works for us. That was the point of my post, in case you didn't happen to read it all the way through...
So I'll take your advice and not believe everything I'm told, since most of the time it's simply not true.
Yes, I'm basing my decisions off of personal experience, but also off of experience of tens, if not hundreds of experienced detailers around the world. Magic of the internet and all that... How the hell am I supposed to provide hard data on "ease of use" or working time or ease of application and removal? Hell, I'm not even talking about the *more* subjective measures of appearance. Some of these measures I mention - performance of a polish - are not subjective. It either removes swirls and finishes down very nicely without excessive dusting or it doesn't.
As far as opinions as to how long a wax will last? Well, there's the Guru report if you really want to get anal about that kind of thing. Otherwise, again - there's relative, subjective data available from thousands of applications of different waxes by people around the world in all kinds of weather and use conditions.
I hardly think my postulation that concourse and museum use is one of the easiest jobs for a wax is far-fetched.
And, like you, many of us have gone through garages full of products and made up our minds as to what works for us. That was the point of my post, in case you didn't happen to read it all the way through...
So I'll take your advice and not believe everything I'm told, since most of the time it's simply not true.
The person who started this thread is looking for help. He's indicated he has no experience and wants to find out how to become skilled. That's what should be happening here and I feel we are no doing the club as good a service as we should by adding our bias to a remark. I think we all agree w have brand preferences however we should always try to ensure that our own bias be limited to fact and not opinion without proper notation.
The Guru report is a hotly debated topic all over the web. So was Consumer Reports take on best waxes. I suspect we'd argue ourselves 'blue" in the face in that respect.
Take my advice with a grain of salt...my intention responding to GrandPrix with information that he can readily digest and reference. If I make a statement about something that I feel is bias I try my best to indicate so. The last thing I want to do is stroke my own ego at the cost of someone else car.
Maybe the best thing to do here is to agree to disagree when it comes to brands and try to focus on process and procedure. I think overall the community would greatly benefit from that knowledge base more effectively.
11-08-2006, 10:00 AM
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What do you think the advantage is to layering. Also, is this a syntheic below carnuba only process or does it work both ways? I know Griot's indicated that there formula has a problem with curing over silicone based synthetics (hazing/smearing) but heck the synthetics field has come along way in recent years so I suspect we'll have a chance to see it overcome conventional wax someday.
11-08-2006, 11:34 AM
#59
Originally Posted by kctheflish,Nov 8 2006, 02:00 PM
What do you think the advantage is to layering. Also, is this a syntheic below carnuba only process or does it work both ways? I know Griot's indicated that there formula has a problem with curing over silicone based synthetics (hazing/smearing) but heck the synthetics field has come along way in recent years so I suspect we'll have a chance to see it overcome conventional wax someday.
11-08-2006, 01:28 PM
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I know that wax changes properties over time. Once it's applied its color, clarity, clearness begins to diminish. Some people think that building wax coats of time slowly diminishes the true finish. I'll generally remove my wax in the fall and spring. I typically apply wax every 2-3 months depending on the looks. Summer in Florida can be tough on a wax not only from a heat and humidity stand point, but the salt fog from the beach is a real nightmare. The rest of the year it's basically the same except for the "Love Bug" seasons. They will eat right through any wax or sealant if they aren't removed promptly. There body is so acidic that nothing eats them as well. They are a major pain in the butt. I've seen people put Vaseline, Pan cooking spray all over the front of their cars trying to prevent them from sticking.