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o yea... sorry i neglected to mention that, i used to not wear a mask till i started getting woozy when i painted. so invest in a 3M particle mask... its a big respirator with two filters on each side and a one way exauhst valve in the very front... trust me, its worth your money.
Originally Posted by shotiable,Oct 6 2006, 05:59 PM
hello! whats this? i'm an amateur too, i just learned lots of stuff from the paintshop downtown
i happen to be working on body works stuff right now, if your doing rust, theres something that you can get at your local autozone or kragen thats a rust converter, it'll chemically change the rust into primer. thats to get rid of the rust.
then you can use fine putty... which is kinda like bondo, but its finer and less porus... you get less holes in it. and then sand that down with some wet to dry sand paper... 220 grit, till you get the nice even surface that you want.
thanks for the tips!!
i will return the bondo filler and get some fine putty. it works out great coz i only need a tiny amount and teh smaller bondo filler can is still huge.
i've already gotten rid of loose rust and peeling paint and sprayed that rust converter stuff. when my paint kit arrives, i'll use a 50grit sandpaper to grind everything down to bare metal, including about a 2" margin away from the rust edge.
then i'll put on that fine putty, smooth it out and then sand that down w/ 320 grit. once i'm happy w/ results then i'll do primer -> paint -> clearcoat.
hello ProV1,
this is the fine putty that i'm talking about, i took a picture of it just now so excuse the crappy quality of the shot(s). its "metal glaze" and its used to fill deep scratches on metal or in my bumper's case, plastic. i also use this to fix dents. its super creamy that you can squeeze it out of the tube but it gets a lil more clay-like when you mix the hardener with it.
this is me and my dad's current project.
we use bondo for the big crumpled part on the truck bed since it comes in big 1 gallon tubs
I agree with you guys.....finding a shop is hard work. On top of that, metallic colors actually take a good amount of skill to shoot. (Someone who can paint an NFR car may not do such a good job on a sebring, or a spa.)
Lucky for me, my shop is great, and always takes care of me...
From this......
To this.....
Now I do some bodywork myself (painting bodykits, lips, etc....fitment) but I wont touch the actual body myself. Just not enough skill.
Back on topic...
First of all, make DAMN sure you got 110% of the rust off. Then, if you want to be safe, by rustproofing paint (type of epoxy) to prevent it from coming back. Then bondo......if this is your first time with bondo, go easy on the hardener. If you put in too much, it will harden too fast, give yourself plenty of time. Make sure you have all the right tools. (Scrapers in assorted sizes, block sander, etc)
I do a lot of bondo work (systems) so if you need some more info, just ask.
Edit.....
Doh, Im a little late....however...just another tip...
DO NOT PUT MORE THAT 1/4 inch of bondo AT MOST. It will crack on the first bump you hit if you put any more on.
Originally Posted by shotiable,Oct 7 2006, 12:40 PM
hello ProV1,
this is the fine putty that i'm talking about, i took a picture of it just now so excuse the crappy quality of the shot(s). its "metal glaze" and its used to fill deep scratches on metal or in my bumper's case, plastic. i also use this to fix dents. its super creamy that you can squeeze it out of the tube but it gets a lil more clay-like when you mix the hardener with it.
this is me and my dad's current project.
we use bondo for the big crumpled part on the truck bed since it comes in big 1 gallon tubs
good look with you project again
Bondo on top of paint?
Guess it works but I've never been comfortable with it.
guys, just to confirm, i was going to sand down to bare metal to get rid of all rust (metal did not perforate) and since the surface won't be smooth i bought a tube of glazing/spot putty per the recommendations here.
or should i get a big jar of bondo professional filler (with a tube of hardener)?
how exactly is the bondo filler different than the glazing/spot putty??
bondo is thicker and more porus, metal glaze is smoother and finer, so i use metal glaze on top of my bondo. its also easier to sand down. o yea, only apply the metal glaze if you really need to, that is if the surface is really rough that you feel that when you prime and paint it, the roughness wont go away. in other words, use it only if you're that desperate. if you sand down the area, and get all the rust out, you'll prolly be left with a crapload of lines since you'd be using a coarse grain sand paper to get rust out. you can eliminate some of those lines by following with a fine grain sand paper and rubbing... alot.
sorry if i misunderstood some stuff earlier, i thought the rust was really bad that the metal got really coarse. do you have a picture of what you're doing?
NFR is right tho, dont put too much bondo coz it will make the stuff crack. (NFR your car looks awesome! )
and steve, i sanded the paint before i bondo, i also wiped it down with paint thinner to get rid of dirt/grease/grime.
be sure to prime before painting over any bondo/putty or it will show a darker spot... or at least a different color.
some pics of the rust damage on my new car. there are several rust spots, the top is the biggest one. the black stuff you see is the result of rust converter spray. once the paint gets here, i'll sand all that plus 2" margin with 50grit sandpaper.
but i don't think sanding alone will give me a smooth finish, so i thought i'd have to use some spot putty on there... lemme know what u guys think
btw this is the funky Azure Blue paint that changes color depending on light.. from dark blue to purple
10-06-2006, 04:26 PM
Doh, Im a little late....however...just another tip...
