Detailing Engine Bay
03-23-2016 | 09:23 PM
#11
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,024
Likes: 1,852
From: Foothills East of Sacramento
I would not use Simple Green.
From Simple Green's website:
Quote:
"Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time."
Like Vanishing Point posted, lots of good products to use out there. I happen to like a citrus degreaser/cleaner from OSH. My jeweler said he uses it to clean jewlery and other sensitive objects in an ultrasonic cleaner with it. Does not attack metal.
You can also use plastic wrap or aluminum foil to quickly wrap up components you don't want to get wet. Easy and quick.
When I am done washing the car, I use one of the damp microfiber towels from drying the car and wipe down the engine compartment. Keeps it looking great so I only have to realty wash it once a year at best.
From Simple Green's website:
Quote:
"Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time."
Like Vanishing Point posted, lots of good products to use out there. I happen to like a citrus degreaser/cleaner from OSH. My jeweler said he uses it to clean jewlery and other sensitive objects in an ultrasonic cleaner with it. Does not attack metal.
You can also use plastic wrap or aluminum foil to quickly wrap up components you don't want to get wet. Easy and quick.
When I am done washing the car, I use one of the damp microfiber towels from drying the car and wipe down the engine compartment. Keeps it looking great so I only have to realty wash it once a year at best.
04-16-2016 | 07:12 AM
#12
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
I despise simple green... I've used in the past and like stated above it reacts with aluminum and I've noticed that it leaves what looks like water marks or a full appearance on most metals.
I'm going to give sonax a try next week. This will be my first time detailing the bay and I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
I'm going to give sonax a try next week. This will be my first time detailing the bay and I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
04-19-2016 | 07:20 AM
#13
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 20,983
Likes: 185
From: in my garage
Once cleaned and dried, using Silkolene Pro-Prep as an engine dressing will give fantastic results and it's available OTC at most motorcycle shops.
Be sure to cover your paint and glass before bombing the engine with the above product. You will not be disappointed.
Be sure to cover your paint and glass before bombing the engine with the above product. You will not be disappointed.
04-23-2016 | 09:09 AM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Damascus, OR
Can someone post a picture of their car engine bay with all the important parts covered prior to spraying it down with water?
I've read the S2000 detailing book but I'm still anxious that I'll miss something and completely screw things up... Alternator, battery, air filter entry, fuse box.
A picture would be worth a thousand words in this case! imo.
I've read the S2000 detailing book but I'm still anxious that I'll miss something and completely screw things up... Alternator, battery, air filter entry, fuse box.
A picture would be worth a thousand words in this case! imo.
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