Cons of using a harsh Pad (PC)
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Cons of using a harsh Pad (PC)
My car has a medium amount of swirls and cobwebs (the stuff you can only see in the sun). Last time I detailed my car (first time with a PC), I used the white Polishing Pad out of fear of damaging my clear coat or adding more swirls.
I do also have a more harsh green pad. It feels very abrasive. Could I mess up my paint using such a tough pad? (Of course I would be trying on a test area first.)
I do also have a more harsh green pad. It feels very abrasive. Could I mess up my paint using such a tough pad? (Of course I would be trying on a test area first.)
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The ones that came with the Adams kit on detaielrsdomain.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index.asp?P...WPROD&ProdID=44
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index.asp?P...WPROD&ProdID=44
#4
those are most likely lake country pads...
a good guide for their pads:
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/padappguide.html
their green pad is not very aggressive.
i will ask phil to chime in on this cause you gotta good question!!
a good guide for their pads:
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/padappguide.html
their green pad is not very aggressive.
i will ask phil to chime in on this cause you gotta good question!!
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Swirl & Haze Remover
Revive Polish
Not the machine versions, though I doubt it really matters much. (weird that you don't put the machine polishes in the Ultimate PC DEtailers Kit)
Also, some other PC questions, since this will be the seconds time I will use it.
1. You shouldn't have to apply alot of lateral pressure, if any, correct?
2. Do I buff these polishes until they become clear? What is their breakdown point?
Bought a microfiber polish remover and some Adams Undercarrige Dressing for my wheels wells about 20 mins ago from you. Hope it works well! (I have been using the In & Out spray, but I think it is a waste on that area.)
Revive Polish
Not the machine versions, though I doubt it really matters much. (weird that you don't put the machine polishes in the Ultimate PC DEtailers Kit)
Also, some other PC questions, since this will be the seconds time I will use it.
1. You shouldn't have to apply alot of lateral pressure, if any, correct?
2. Do I buff these polishes until they become clear? What is their breakdown point?
Bought a microfiber polish remover and some Adams Undercarrige Dressing for my wheels wells about 20 mins ago from you. Hope it works well! (I have been using the In & Out spray, but I think it is a waste on that area.)
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I was able to take some photos today.
Here is my Trunk Lid before doing anything.
(Threw some sliders around in CS3 to help show swirls.)
Then, just for today, WITHOUT claying, I took some Adams Swirld and Haze remover, went to town with that geen pad that comes with your kit Phil, at about 3,0000rpms. Then the same pad for polish, then white pad for wax.
I think it is better, but not by much.
What do you guys think? Machine for a longer amount of time? More agressive pad? Did not claying first make a difference?
I really have no idea what I am doing guys.
Here is my Trunk Lid before doing anything.
(Threw some sliders around in CS3 to help show swirls.)
Then, just for today, WITHOUT claying, I took some Adams Swirld and Haze remover, went to town with that geen pad that comes with your kit Phil, at about 3,0000rpms. Then the same pad for polish, then white pad for wax.
I think it is better, but not by much.
What do you guys think? Machine for a longer amount of time? More agressive pad? Did not claying first make a difference?
I really have no idea what I am doing guys.
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I think you'll need need a polish with more cut if you still have those scratches. Keep in mind I've never used Adams so I can't say what it is capable of, but swirl removers do not have much cutting compounds. Try a ploish with more compound in it, i.e fine cut.
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In the past I've had success with Meguiars Professional Light Cut Polish than finished with the Show Car Glaze. These are the ones in the light tan bottles not the burgandy colored ones.