chris2002

Thanks Mikey. I have heard of Klasse, but not Jeff's, thanks for the tips. Do you find you like using the PC? Does it make a difference to you in terms of upkeep?

I have found some wide differences in prices for PC in different configurations. Lowe's $99 and AutoGeeks $140 others bundle pads kits for more $$$.

Are there any guides for pads that compare one manufacturer to another. Everyone seems to publish their own guide for their own line. But not in comparison to each other.

It seems that there are many foam pads manufacturers, or just a couple that make them and more that market them.

Do you have any recommendations for pads or pad kits?

chris2002

I also know from black. I once had a semi-metallic black CRX. Scratches I could keep in check, sort of, because the car had some many planes it was hard to see them.

I hate the chips because the underlying primer or plastic is either grey or black, which shows up quite well on the bright yellow front bumper.

s2ksimon

its why wanabe and others recommend going as conservative as possible at first , and also if you are new at it..

but i've tested burning clear coat on junk yard body panels..

took me just a few minutes with a yellow pad (slightly longer with an orange pad) and a compound at speed 1500.. right down to the metal in nooooooooooo time.. pretty cool to see actually..

MikeyC

Yes, PC prices fluctuate depending on where you are buying it. The PC 7424 which most detailing stores sell is basically the exact same machine as the PC 7336SP sold at Lowe's. The difference between them is like the difference between a silverstone S and a sebring silver S . . . shades of difference, but they both drive the same! The cheapest way to do it is to buy your PC at Lowe's and then to buy pads, etc. on-line.

As far as pads go, you're 100% correct in that there are few manufacturers but many many marketers of pads. You'll find there are numerous versions of private labeled pads. They're all pretty much the same pad except for the name brand on them.

Lake Country is one of the biggest pad manufacturers and makes a lot of the private labeled pads sold on Autogeek & ProperAutoCare.com. I don't know if they make the Sonus pads too, but I wouldn't doubt it. Personally, I despise Lake Country pads and refuse to buy them. One of their products damaged my car and they basically told me to shove it.

Propel pads are pretty popular, but I've never used them myself. They are cheaper than most pads by $1 or $2. So, IMO that contributes to the popularity. Plus, I hear Patrick of Excel Detail (where they are sold) is a customer service whiz which also contributes to the popularity of his pads.

Meguiar's pads are also pretty popular and sometimes you can find them locally at an auto parts store or at a body shop supply store. I recently bought some and they're pretty good, but I've heard that the velcro backing is not that durable on them.

Edge 2000 pads are pretty popular as well. Aaron of Edgepads is also a customer service whiz and really stands behinds his products. These pads really seem to be gaining in popularity and they're high on my list to try because they have a lot of positive attributes.

The chart in one of my links on this thread has a pad section at the bottom. It has a few brands, but not too many. It's helpful but not all encompassing.

MikeyC

OK. Starting another post, because my fingers were getting tired typing the last one.

I the PC. For many years, I advocated hand application of everything. However, the PC is great and for the most part harmless. As I mentioned, I did have a product malfunction with a Lake Country pad kit, but as far as I'm concerned that was a problem with the Lake Country product and not the PC.

The results I get with a PC are definitely an improvement from what I was getting by hand. I bought my car new and have taken great care of it. So, the paint has always been in very good shape. Now that I have a PC though it takes the shine to another level. I don't use the PC in every detail. I only use it when polishing is required like when the paint is a little dull or if there is any swirling to get rid of. There's just no way you could get the same result by hand without HUGE amounts of muscle power.

chris2002

Mikey thanks for all of the info. I am now wary of Lake Country pads. It seems that everyone has them and are promoting them. The edge pads look cool. That's the one's without the backing plates and the pads can be used on either side?

One thing that I have noticed with NXT. It is pretty shiny when buffed, but it seems to get much brighter after a day. Is there some kind of curing that goes on with synthetic waxes?

s2ksimon

and by too much wetsanding.. Past weekend, I used 2000 grit, put some medium to heavy pressure and was down to "metal" within seconds all done by hand.

NOTE: it was on a honda civic trunk lid i attained from a scrap yard that I use to show people

MikeyC

Yeah, the LC pads are really one of the most popular brands (even if you don't know you bought one because it was re-branded). It was actually the backing plate that caused the damage to my car. However, as LC was unwilling to pay for the repair I will never buy one of their products EVER again. If you do a search for "spot buffs" you'll probably find my thread about the damage.

You are 100% right. The Edge 2K pads are the one with no backing plate and you can use both sides. I can't wait for more of my pads to wear out so that I can buy these.

You are also 100% right that synthetic waxes have a cure time. NXT is not something you can layer because it has cleaners in it, but other synthetics need a cure time before you can layer them.

chris2002

I took at look at Jeff's and Klasse they seem to be acrylic based. Isn't Liquid Glass very similar? That one has been around for years and it is acrylic based.

Same stuff just repackaged?

chris2002

s2ksimon, thanks for you input. I know that paint is durable, but now I know how fragile it is if not treated with the proper materials. Circular buffers are out, random orbitals are in. Thanks.