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Advice for first Porter-Cable use...

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Old 07-24-2007, 09:02 PM
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Default Advice for first Porter-Cable use...

So I've spent countless hours over the past 2 days reading through all the info I could I on here (and getting very little work done at the office ) and now I am finding myself more confused than before!!

There is so much info on products that I'm a little overwhelmed and hoping someone can lay out an example process from car being dirty to all polished up and shiny.

I ordered a PC 7424 yesterday from EShine, along with the pads I thought I am most likely to use. I did not buy any product because I have a decent array of waxes and polishes around here that I thought I could get my feet wet with.

It's going to be about a month or so before I actually get to do the first real clean up because my car is coming back from the paint shop tomorrow after having nearly the whole car repainted. I'd like to make sure I don't mess it up right off the bat.

So here are my thoughts on what I should do for the first wash, and the washes to follow:

Wash
1) Rinse the car with very low pressure from the hose.

2) Wash car with a soft mitt starting from the top, changing out the water and soap part way through for the lower half of the car.

3) Rinse with low pressure from the hose, and dry the car with microfiber towels wiping in linear motions, as opposed to circular which may leave swirls if any dust or dirt happens to sneak past me.


Wax and Polish
1) I'm lost already.

2) Ready to use the new Porter-Cable!!

If I were going with a full spectrum, start to finish, wax, polish, sealant, etc. which products and pads on the PC would be appropriate to start with and learn a little?

I know it's a lot to ask, but I really appreciate the advice!!


I'm gonna get me one of those damn badges by the end of the summer...

Mike
Old 07-24-2007, 09:46 PM
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If your car is being repainted, you shouldn't need to polish it
Old 07-24-2007, 09:58 PM
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Yeah, that's what the paint shop said. But realistically, it's my DD and it's bound to get a little bit of scratching from road crap, and regular use.

I'm an amateur when it comes to polishing and waxing, but the other s2000 guys I know back where I used to live are nuts for Zaino and load up their cars with as many coats as they can in all their spare time. Is there no benefit to using these products to build up additional protection above the clear coat?
Old 07-25-2007, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeyCB,Jul 25 2007, 12:58 AM
Yeah, that's what the paint shop said. But realistically, it's my DD and it's bound to get a little bit of scratching from road crap, and regular use.
Yes, you will eventually need to polish your car. Depending on the quality of polishing your body shop does it may be sooner rather than later. I've seen countless painted cars come right out of the body shop needing to be re-polished because the body shop tech has no idea how to handle a buffer. The same goes for car dealerships. Employees at dealerships typically have no idea how to produce and maintain a flawless finish.
[QUOTE]I'm an amateur when it comes to polishing and waxing, but the other s2000 guys I know back where I used to live are nuts for Zaino and load up their cars with as many coats as they can in all their spare time.
Old 07-25-2007, 07:55 AM
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btw, your paint will need to gas out...
ask the shop how long you should wait until you can wax it
Old 07-25-2007, 09:09 AM
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Depending on how your paint is cured it could be a few months before you can put a "real" sealant on it. However, the shop I use now bakes every piece so you can go straight to your sealant. Due to these differences it is imperative that you ask YOUR SHOP what they recommend.

Typically, I use a light carnauba on newly painted cars as it is breathable. It does not last very long but it does add some shine. I have found that the cheapo Butter Wax from Chemical Guys is decent for this as it goes on and comes off very easily.
Old 07-25-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyC,Jul 25 2007, 06:33 AM
Employees at dealerships typically have no idea how to produce and maintain a flawless finish.
AMEN! I sell new Mazdas, and the last 4 I've sold (this week alone) have had scratches/swirls from the detail shop! I'm ready to scream at them. My manager is demanding that they pay for the repair bill for each one.

It's sad that the salesman knows more about proper detailing than the "professionals" do.
Old 07-25-2007, 01:16 PM
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They said wait a month or so to let the paint cure completely. I don't want to push it at all, and frankly, if it comes back looking as good as I'm hoping, I'll think I'll be fine with not washing or touching the paint for the first 4-6 weeks.

I'm just addicted to trying to keep it clean and shiny and end up washing and waxing/polishing 1-2 times per week because it gets dirty so quickly, especially out here where they don't use salt in the winter (gravel only with some damn big rocks) and they don't clean it off the roads in the spring. The amount of dust in the air out here combined with construction dust in this booming city is insane.

I should not have ordered the PC if I'm not going to be able to use it for a while. I have a feeling I'll be bringing the paintjob on my buddy's 1990 300zx TT back to life. Not a bad idea anyway, get familiar with it on someone else' car

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll look into this Chemical Guys stuff as well!
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