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@geteh Hello. I am looking to put an offer on a house which would need some work to get it into how we would like it. We are getting an inspection done to confirm the home is solid, but it will definitely need updating of the following: - full new kitchen (new floors, cabinets, knock down wall to open it up to dining room, add new island/peninsula, add granite countertops, keep existing appliances) - new engineered hardwood flooring (all of main floor and vinyl for part of basement, and stairs) - light fixture replacement all over house - interior door replacement of 8 doors This would be our first house. The location is excellent, so we think it is worth the effort. Plan is to complete the renos in the first month or two after we take ownership, we can live in my parents place while the work is being done. Looking for some advice on what we are getting ourselves into!
Ok, not disagreeing with the approach but want to make sure you know how big the apple is before taking the bite.
The checklist:
start with how well does your wife get along with your parents? seriously, what happens when this little endeavor takes 6-12 months instead of 2 because of well, shit happens. I say this seriously. been there done that. 2 months turned into 4 years when saving some money on rent turned into me going back to school. Little things like not making a lot of noise during sex.
have you sorted out the design, materials, budget etc. for the kitchen and floors. Don't underestimate how long this will take. What will you do if that counter material you really love will take 10 weeks to get in? Or that the plumber, electrician you wanted is booked until late someday. a kitchen has a very sequential process. You may open things up and find more than you wanted to do. Wall may need some help to get cabinets square. been there done that.
Are you doing labor or subbing it out? If you are doing it that's a lot of work in a short window. are you taking it on as a fulltime task? Weekends and nights go by really fast if you are working fulltime. I can guess at your age, it matters a lot with respect to how much energy you'll have. if you are in your 20's have a good time. 30's, your still good, but plan on going home tired. 40's, Ok make sure you have some subs lined up for help here and there. 50's go sit in front of the mirror and self-assess, 60's or above do you really need to do this?
Good advice Jerry. Every remodeling costs more than planned, takes longer than planned, and when done there is always a few things you wish you had done differently.
One thing I do remember from my kitchen remodel. The contractor told me if I ordered cabinets, etc from the "big box stores" he'd be adding $ to his fee. His experience had taught him that there tended to be more delays/issues with those stores vs local cabinet supplier. I went with the local guy.
Hello. I am looking to put an offer on a house which would need some work to get it into how we would like it. We are getting an inspection done to confirm the home is solid, but it will definitely need updating of the following: - full new kitchen (new floors, cabinets, knock down wall to open it up to dining room, add new island/peninsula, add granite countertops, keep existing appliances) - new engineered hardwood flooring (all of main floor and vinyl for part of basement, and stairs) - light fixture replacement all over house - interior door replacement of 8 doors This would be our first house. The location is excellent, so we think it is worth the effort. Plan is to complete the renos in the first month or two after we take ownership, we can live in my parents place while the work is being done. Looking for some advice on what we are getting ourselves into!
I see a lot of people wanting to remove kitchen walls and I've had to tell some of them that they are dealing with load-bearing walls , which they did not expect. If a wall is load bearing it becomes a different and more expensive project, not impossible but longer (with needed permits) and more expensive (with engineering and support beams).
Any reason you prefer engineered hardwood? It is better quality than some of the less expensive luxury vinyl options, and a bit lower quality compared to real hardwood but then again not as expensive either - I understand the trade-offs. All types of hardwoods need good and consistent control of humidity to avoid expansion and contraction issues, and they can be scratched easily by pets (ask me how I know lol ) . I tend to avoid any form of hardwood in kitchens or bathrooms, but I see lots of people trying to do it. I prefer good tiles or a good thick waterproof LVP in those areas.
Good luck with the project, like others say always expect some delays and hidden items that may crop up.
Last edited by zeroptzero; 11-25-2023 at 03:59 AM.
Remember my detached garage insulation and dry wall improvement over July to September 2023? I was out in it a couple nights ago putting a new wiper insert on the 2017 NSX. It was 25*F outside. I have no heating or cooling of any sort in the detached garage. It was 59*F. Nice! I'm more than pleased. My contractor was impressed when I told him.
^11-27-2023. The day's range outside was 45* for a high to 16*F for a low. It was 23*F at 11:54PM.
^11-27-2023. It was 59* inside the detached garage at 9:16PM.
^11-27-2023. It looks like my pot of geraniums will survive the winter inside that garage.
This is our first winter in the new home, we were at our last home for 16+ years and I had that place ticking like a fine watch when it came to heating and cooling (HVAC) systems. I haven't gotten our temp settings and furnace settings quite right here at the new home for the early part of the heating system.. I've been finding the furnace in the current home comes on for a few minutes and then shuts down a bit too quick just as the air starts feeling warm. The first minute with any furnace is blowing cooler air then it seems to shut down just as it starts feeling warm.
I put in a new Sensi thermostat which allows me to play with the furnace settings for the number of cycles per hour. I've gone down to fewer cycles per hour from the previous thermostat setting trying to get better operation from my furnace . This keeps the furnace running longer on each cycle and you can feel the heat without the furnace shutting down too soon. A high efficiency furnace is most efficient when running longer , and the heat feels better to me. Having the furnace shutting down too soon with it starting and stopping too often just doesn't seem to work as well (more cycles per hour with shorter run times per cycle as compared to fewer cycles per hour and longer run times per cycle). I think air conditioning works the same way too, better to run longer cycles and fewer cycles per hour, which is also less straining on the equipment as starting and stopping stresses the equipment more IMO. I am starting to think our furnace and A/C is oversized for a small home, which can lead to short cycling issues I have noticed. Hopefully it starts feeling more comfortable with the new settings.
Last edited by zeroptzero; 12-11-2023 at 03:22 PM.
I put in a new Sensi thermostat which allows me to play with the furnace settings for the number of cycles per hour. I've gone down to fewer cycles per hour from the previous thermostat setting trying to get better operation from my furnace . Having the furnace shutting down too soon with it starting and stopping too often just doesn't seem to work as well (more cycles per hour with shorter run times per cycle as compared to fewer cycles per hour and longer run times per cycle). I think air conditioning works the same way too, better to run longer cycles and fewer cycles per hour, which is also less straining on the equipment as starting and stopping stresses the equipment more IMO.
You are on the right path! Don't stop there. If you have a well, the cycling that occurs with the pump and pressure tanks takes a toll just like your HVAC. I installed a "Cycle Stop" valve, adjusted for my setting, on my well. I irrigate quite a bit and the constant cycling was not good. Now the pump is on the entire time demand is on the system BUT the amp load goes way down as the amount of work the pump has to perform goes down from full blast. I have measured it and it is about half of normal. No shocking the pipes and system from on and off. Lower amps on the pump itself. It is a mechanical only valve. When the demand ceases the valve allows water to fill up the pressure tank and then cycle off by pressure as usual. Made in the USA. This company also produces commercial and city size pumps for water treatment solutions. Great customer service. I called and the tech guy and I went into detail about my system. He pre-set the valve to my settings so I would not even have to do any adjusting (actually pretty easy) on my end.
The Cycle Stop Valve model CSV1A and CSV2W are pump control valves that automatically adjust pump output to match your variable demands.
This product creates back pressure, that is how it works. Back pressure is determined by the pump you are using. Be sure your piping between the pump and the Cycle Stop Valve is rated for that pressure.
As your demands vary, the CSV reacts to changes in pressure and opens and closes accordingly. This enables it to hold a constant pressure as long as your demand is more than the minimum control flow of 1 or 5 gpm depending on the model your choose (1A-1gpm, 2W-1 or 5gpm) . These models (T shaped valves) also have a reduced pressure fall off function.
If you demand more than your pump can provide at the pressure the valve is trying to hold, the valve will stop actuating at all and open fully. Your system pressure will become whatever pressure the pump can build at that point.
When there is no longer any demand on the system, water will begin to go into the pressure tank and the system pressure will begin to rise. The pressure tank will then refill slowly at the valve minimum control rate of 1 gpm or 5 gpm (not your full pump rate) until it reaches shut off pressure. Keep this in mind when choosing your pressure tank as this function allows for a much smaller pressure tank to protect your pumping system than you would be able to use on a standard system without the CSV valve controlling the pump. Motor manufacturers recommend a minimum 1 minute of run time any time your pump is called to come on. The time it takes to refill your pressure tank will guarantee that run time regardless of how you use water.
When water is again demanded, the pressure tank will empty causing the system pressure to reach cut in pressure and the pressure switch will start the pump. NOTE: Pressure switch shut off pressure must always be set higher than the pressure regulated by the CSV.
Model CSV1A is dual threaded and is available in 1" female NPT and 1 1/4" male NPT. It also includes 2) 1/2" side ports you can attach pressure switch/gauge/pressure relief valve to and 1) 3/4" bottom port that can be used to attach your pressure tank. Side and bottom ports are all downstream ports. The "1A" model is adjustable from 15-150 PSI (150-300 PSI available). The "2W" model is available in 1 1/4" female NPT thread and has pressure settings available from 25-75 PSI or 50-120 PSI. Difference in pressure between inlet pressure and outlet pressure cannot be more than 125 PSI.
Note: In multiple pump applications, each pump must have its own valve.
Last edited by cosmomiller; 12-11-2023 at 05:06 PM.
11-24-2023, 08:19 AM
So true. Heck even when we were just visiting for a weekend I can remember the wife saying we are making too much noise!
