s2knky

I have an 00 AP1 with 47K on it.

I just broke something in the rear end doing a clutch drop. Clutch engages - gears shift fine. Try to let out on the clutch and you just hear a clunking noise from the back. When you push the car, you hear the same clunking noise. I'm hoping its a broken ring gear, pinion gear - maybe it's the diff - dunno. Your input would be very appreciated.

It's my weekend playtoy, and in the year I've had it, has only racked up about 3500 miles.

I take it to the strip about 1 weekend a month, maybe 2 sometimes - and Auto-X it with about the same frequency.

I live just south of Cincinnati, in nice, curvy, hilly Northern Kentucky - where there are some of the best, most scenic backroad driving any S driver would want to encounter.

My Mods are as follows

AEM V2 CAI
DC Sports Stainless Header
Megan Racing Resonated Test Pipe
Spoon N1 Single Outlet Stainless Catback
Zex 55hp Wet Shot Nitrous
Competition Clutch Stage 2 Disc / Plate
Competition Clutch Flywheel

At the track, I run on stock rims - no D/Rs - though I would like to have the rear end to hold up to some D/R abuse.

Without the bottle and the clutch - I ran 13.7s last year consistently on streets.

I want to build the new rear end to handle anything I can throw at it.

I'm considering the 4.57R gearset, with the Comptech reinforced housing, and a stronger LSD - but I don't know much about them.

The clutchpacks in the LSD smell like they are fried bad.

1. Anyone "know" what might be wrong?
2. What's the optimal rear end setup for some abuse?

I would like to boost this baby before the end of the year too, with the comptech or vortech setup most likely. Whatever I do needs to be able to handle 400+whp with the boost + spray combo.

Thanks for any assistance.

PLEASE HELP! I NEED MY BABY BACK ON THE ROAD! IT'S ABOUT TO GET WARM AND SUNNY HERE!

Slows2k

The OEM differential is a Torsen unit, it has no clutch packs.

You need to find out exactly what is broken, it could also be a broken axle or CV joint.

s2knky

Yeah - I'm not exactly anxious to get in there and start ripping stuff out either. Guess it needs to be done though.

Thanks!

What's the smell coming from the rear then ?

Wisconsin S2k

First, no offense, but I removed the pics of your ride. They don't help us with your problem. We have a gallery forum for that.

As slowS2k said, there are several things it could be. CV joint, axle. It could be that you broke your ring and pinion. maybe you broke teeth in the torsen unit. who knows.

The only way to tell is going to be to check the CV joints and axle. Then, pull the diff and take it apart and see.

The comptech diff is stronger than the ap1/ap2 diff. however, if you REALLY want an even STRONGER diff, difftechnics, one of the forum sponsors here can set you up with a Nissan Diff that's damn near bulletproof.
http://www.difftechnics.com.au/Acura.html

s2knky

NP on the pics. I've posted on here looking for help before and not had much luck, just trying to keep some attention. This is a great community for help - if you can keep your thread active.

Is there any problem more common than another? I've got the manuals ordered, but I'm not going to crack into there until I know what I'm getting myself into. IDK much about rear diffs in general, nevertheless Honda's version of one.

Anything I can tell just from inspection? Jack the car up - see how the wheels spin, etc. ?

Wisconsin S2k

If you're unfamiliar with diffs, this may not be something you want to be doing yourself. Especially without a helm's manual.

s2knky

I'm pretty comfortable with taking the carrier out - etc. Cracking it open - different story. I'll have the Honda dealership mechanic in town here do it (out of his home). He's reasonable - and really knows his stuff.

Only thing I'm hesitant about is popping the axles out. I'm gathering you need something besides a pickle fork to get them free ?

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Done a few B motor swaps and the lot.

Wisconsin S2k

If you're intent on doing this yourself, then get the helm's manual. Or have your friend get the how-to off HIN.


FYI, most honda techs will never crack an S2000 diff open. taking it out is one thing, cracking it open and figuring out what to do is a completely different beast. most times, when there is an issue with the diff, the dealerships swap out the entire diff. they don't open it up and replace a ring or pinion. that requires quite a different set of skills. it's an art form almost.

gomarlins3

For my purposes, I liked the 4.77 with CT reinforcement (which I don't have, but would like someday) in a '04 diff.

Stratocaster

The oil is the diff 90w smell really bad even without any miles on it. In fact, the more miles, the smeller it gets. So can you tell us what the problem is that is keeping your car of of the road?

Have you drained the diff oil and looked for large chunks of metal? If you see anything larger than a dust size shaving, then you broken something inside the diff.

Since you said "clutch drop" I will bet the issue is with the Diff and not the axles, CV Joints. You can Jack the car up and put it on Jack stands, and rotate the prop shaft from under the car and see if you can isolate where the clunk is comming from.

Removal of the diff is easy, and there is a DIY thread for it too. You might want to pull the dif and just open it. Once open you will be able to see any major damage.

My money is on the R&P.