Yet another severe engine rattling
#1
Yet another severe engine rattling
Hi guys,
My lovely S2000 just got towed due to noise as seen in link below, enigne is F20C1, 2000 model.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUdqQlAWw4M
Previous issues: I've seen twice oil pressure light popping-up for few seconds and I have heard rattling from engine bay while hot.
Seems quite severe to me, drove like that only 200 meters or less, it happened suddenly. Millage is (at least 160k km based on odo-reading.
I would be grateful if you can suggest what might be: TCT, chain itself, camshafts? Wanna put my toy back on road asap, pls help : )
Thanks in advance.
Svet
My lovely S2000 just got towed due to noise as seen in link below, enigne is F20C1, 2000 model.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUdqQlAWw4M
Previous issues: I've seen twice oil pressure light popping-up for few seconds and I have heard rattling from engine bay while hot.
Seems quite severe to me, drove like that only 200 meters or less, it happened suddenly. Millage is (at least 160k km based on odo-reading.
I would be grateful if you can suggest what might be: TCT, chain itself, camshafts? Wanna put my toy back on road asap, pls help : )
Thanks in advance.
Svet
#2
It's done, stick a fork in it.
Rod bearings (spun) mixed with mains, deep thunk knock from what I can hear.
You're pulling it and it's gonna need work. If it's salvageable. If the thrust bearing went as well, it probably will have ground the block.
Rod bearings (spun) mixed with mains, deep thunk knock from what I can hear.
You're pulling it and it's gonna need work. If it's salvageable. If the thrust bearing went as well, it probably will have ground the block.
#3
Is that engine in the video, really running? Seems that the fan belt is stationary.
#5
Were you looking at both sides of the dip stick and taking the lowest reading? How low was the oil? If you were seeing the oil light come on, something was happening to your oil pressure. That bottom end is toast and 99% sure it came from oil starvation.
#6
Trending Topics
#8
hard to see on youtube, but belt IS moving
VTEC activation was also recently not always happening at 6k rpm on first gear....
hope it was oil starvation related, rather debris, also hope block and main bearing are fine...
hence, when stupidity kicks in, only hopes remain...
thanks for responces
VTEC activation was also recently not always happening at 6k rpm on first gear....
hope it was oil starvation related, rather debris, also hope block and main bearing are fine...
hence, when stupidity kicks in, only hopes remain...
thanks for responces
#9
Hello guys,
Engine is disassembled and now I got some questions so some advice would be appreciated.
Cylinder #2 rod bearing managed to damage the crank, its rod(now slightly oval), piston(scored skirt) and cylinder(vertical discolouration lines).
1. Would you recommend turning and grinding the crank, of course within the service limits?
2. The vertical discolouration lines on the cylinder, would honing be enough or usually boring is also needed?
3. Has anyone successfully fixed engine in such condition - would be a shame to fail in 100km?
Thanks
Svet
Engine is disassembled and now I got some questions so some advice would be appreciated.
Cylinder #2 rod bearing managed to damage the crank, its rod(now slightly oval), piston(scored skirt) and cylinder(vertical discolouration lines).
1. Would you recommend turning and grinding the crank, of course within the service limits?
2. The vertical discolouration lines on the cylinder, would honing be enough or usually boring is also needed?
3. Has anyone successfully fixed engine in such condition - would be a shame to fail in 100km?
Thanks
Svet
#10
Do the scratches on the cylinder catch your fingernail? Does it run the full length of the bore? You can only bore out .25mm and honing takes up .02mm of that so you don't really have a lot of room to work with. The biggest you can make the cylinder is 87.260mm.
Off the top of my head you'll likely need a new crank, you'll definitely need a new rod, new piston, pin, rings, and the cylinder will need to be bored out and sleeved if it's beyond the service limit. All things considered you're going to spend half of what a replacement engine costs and there's a chance it won't be done right.
Off the top of my head you'll likely need a new crank, you'll definitely need a new rod, new piston, pin, rings, and the cylinder will need to be bored out and sleeved if it's beyond the service limit. All things considered you're going to spend half of what a replacement engine costs and there's a chance it won't be done right.