s2k-tilldeath

Dude. MY02 has burned mobil 1, valvoline, and castrol. I have used amsoil signature series the past 2 oil changes and NO BURNING OIL AT ALL!!! Will never stop using amsoil, it is absolutely amazing!

XtC-604

This forum likes to flock to amsoil.

Ive on UOA on a few of my oil changes.
Including:

Castrol Syntec
Castrol Syntec Edge
Castrol Syntec Edge with Titanium
Eurospec Castrol

Mobil 1

Motul 300V

Royal Purple XPR

The XPR, 300V, Eurospec Castrol and Syntec with Titanium did the best. A lot better than some figures i see on Amsoil. But everyone has a different engine/climate/driving behaviour.

xviper

I wouldn't say that. True, there are a few Amsoil groupies who will never be swayed. They've been to one too many Amway pep talks. They seem to speak the loudest. Doesn't mean there are a lot of them.
You've done your research and you've gotten the proof. I don't doubt that Amsoil is a good oil but those who preach at that alter, use the proof of how much they've spent. "If you spend a lot, you get a lot. It has to be the best."

miguel329

I Always used Castro gtx in all my cars. Just picked up mobil1 turbo diesel for my turbo s2 heard has high levels of z something that helps protect wear.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Lttakas

Mobil 1 10w30 all my cars life for the past 85k and no burning.must be the ap2 powerplant

SpitfireS

I'm sorry,but (they say that everything you say before "but" doesn't count ) I have (*) to disagree with this.
There are, or at least I remember seeing, lots of UOA's of back-in-the-day 10W-30 dino's that shared out of 30 weight range used in the S2000.
This I would not call "analyzed perfectly", I don't remember the TBN's though.
(although the analysation itself may very well be perfectly done)
On the other hand, even with those OMG! thinner oils there was no real sign of extra wear in ppm.

(*) I also don't really have to, it's more like I would like to for sake of argument or discussion, on the interweb, on a Sunday morning.



Lately, the (what they call) dino xxW-30 oils are a lot better, probably better than what was called synthetic oil in 1999.
And the 1999 S2000 manual just calls for mineral 10W-30.
(And... wasn't really re-written when it comes to (any) oil, just updated the API grade, as in API-SH/SL and the latest SN but I doubt that made it into the last 2010 manual)


Rated from 1 to 10 (1 being bad, 10 being good)
Any oil = 7 - 8
Top of the range syn = 9
Low oil (but syn) = 3 - 4 (if you're lucky)
Low oil (old dino, long time not checked) = 2
No oil = 0



What do I use?
Amsoil (not a fanboy, I'm using it just because it is in the grade I like and it can go the distance.. literally) SSO 0W-30.




Sent from my laptop, by me pressing keys on a keyboard, in a certain order so it makes sense, hopefully.

Jdrum1

I like Castrol Edge (formerly Syntec), and here's why;

When I got my car (about a year ago), it was drinking large amounts of dino oil (as we all know, common for an ap1).

With Edge, it consumes very little.

Would I get the same results with Amsoil? Possibly. But, I tried their transmission fluid and it started breaking down and getting notchy after just about 1k miles. It just didn't instill confidence.

xviper

You are at liberty to disagree as you wish, old friend. I stand by what I say. My information goes back to 2002, 2003 - a time when S2000s came from Honda with "dino" oil. You came after that. I cannot find all those posts from back then nor do I feel the need to do so just to prove a point. I'm long past having to prove anything to anyone, even to old friends. I've done my time and paid my dues. "Shearing out of a weight range" does not equate to bad oil nor does it equate to oil that has reached the end of its service life or oil that no longer protects. Sheared oil can, for all intents and purposes, still function to protect the engine. Let's not go freaking nuts about it. It's the wear numbers that are important, as is the general overall comments made by the lab about the condition of the engine and the remaining oil life that matters. You can beat to death how badly an oil "shears", but it's what the lab results and lab comments that matter insofar as to how the engine and how the oil is continuing to perform.
This whole deal with what oil to use and how good an oil is and what is the "best" oil has been beaten to death for just about forever. It's become a huge joke, really as some people get so anal and obsessive about it. You want to use Amsoil? Please be my guest. It doesn't mean you're using an oil that will protect your engine over the recommended change interval any better than other oils. Some oils burn more than others. That's a fact. So it burns more oil. So what? What burns in one engine, won't burn in another. Is that a sign the engine is doing poorly? To a certain point, I don't think so. It's just using more oil and it's an inconvenience and to the uninitiated S2000 owner, this translates into, "Oh my GAWD, my car is going to die." This person's car burns oil on "Brand X" but doesn't burn oil on "Brand Y". Is Y "better" than X? Not necessarily. It just burns it less. Doesn't mean the engine is doing worse. For a '55 Chevy, maybe. For an S2000 with FRM cylinder liners? Perhaps not.

SpitfireS

True.
Suppose your Oil brand X (what else... right?) shears into a 20 weight after 3500 miles.
And oil Brand Y does not.
I would rather use Y, even if that's more expensive.
By using it longer the total costs end up the same, but you have to be mentally able to not change oil
Shear resistance is one of the things an oil has to have over a certain amount of use.
(according to ACEA specs)
If it doesn't: use it for less miles or use something else.

I think that's what I posted.

If your oil X shears into a 20 weight and no bad things show up in lab results, that why not buy a 20 weight?
Oh.. well.... no.. but the manual says to use a 30 weight.
But 20 weight does not give any problem?
My personal preference is to use an oil that stays in grade, IOW stays to be the recommended 30 weight for as long as I use it.


And I do not follow the OEM 1999 recommended oil change interval anymore.
Its 2013

Eluded

i run mobile 1 (green) without problems. it will use 1QT an oil change if you live in VTEC. If not, doesn;'t use any oil. Just my experience in 10 yrs +100 K miles