Year old LE-607
05-29-2006, 03:07 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Road Rage,May 29 2006, 01:54 PM
Link? What product ID? Need info!!
I would be very careful what you are putting in your car, esp the tranny. I do not know what LE20 is.
I would be very careful what you are putting in your car, esp the tranny. I do not know what LE20 is.
05-29-2006, 05:42 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by oakfloor,May 29 2006, 04:07 PM
I think hes talking about the LC20 oil additive. they also make FP60 fuel additive. the info is at bobistheoilguy.com
05-29-2006, 07:09 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by oakfloor,May 29 2006, 03:07 PM
I think hes talking about the LC20 oil additive. they also make FP60 fuel additive. the info is at bobistheoilguy.com
Thanks for the clearing up the oily mess...
05-30-2006, 12:15 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Road Rage,May 29 2006, 01:04 PM
Interesting, since Mobil1 does not make an 80w90. So the dealer is not only using a fluid that does not meet spec, but mis-stating fact. I love these guys!
Just saw a post where a dealer would not put GMSFM in a car because it would "void the warranty".
The Moronathon continues - another affirmation that doing all my own car maintenance pays off.
RR.
Just saw a post where a dealer would not put GMSFM in a car because it would "void the warranty".
The Moronathon continues - another affirmation that doing all my own car maintenance pays off.
RR.
I just put the Modil 1 75 90 in my diff the other day. I asume this is what many members use?
05-30-2006, 12:08 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Road Rage,May 28 2006, 05:29 PM
I would - and have - my LE-607 has all of 3 years on it, and nearly 3000 miles. ;-)
Be wary of generalizations. Oxidation is a function of heat and oxygen interacting. Sitting in a diff or a bottle would not cause a lubricant to oxidize. Synthetic gear lubes do not necessarily have any intrinsic better peformance than a non-synoil; it is all in the formulation and the add pack. LE-607 uses very special GII+ base stocks no other company i know of uses, and the semi-syn 10w30 Monolec engine oil has better TFOUT performance than just about anything out there, even esters! (TFOUT is perhaps the best test inidcator of oxidation resistance). This is in part because of its stout add pack, but also its dino/syn base stock engineering. Paraffin oils have over 30,000 variants based on the minerals contained in the petroleum - LE uses only the best, and have learned some tricks over the years that are not easily explained in 30-second Web sound bites.
LE-607 sitting in a bottle is completely stable. While oil does "time out", that is primarily because it can turn acidic, caused by sulfurs in the air and as a byproduct of combustion reacting with water to form acids.
You may be mixing up acidification and oxidation in your recommendation and comments.
S2000's come with a dino 90w - I posted in detail that a multi-vis 75 or 80w90 is nowhere near the spec of a 90w. LE-607 has a uniquely low pour point for a 90w - -11degF!!! So while it is not to be used in Wisconsin in the Winter, it has flexibility the competition lacks. Plus, incredible load bearing capability.
Be wary of generalizations. Oxidation is a function of heat and oxygen interacting. Sitting in a diff or a bottle would not cause a lubricant to oxidize. Synthetic gear lubes do not necessarily have any intrinsic better peformance than a non-synoil; it is all in the formulation and the add pack. LE-607 uses very special GII+ base stocks no other company i know of uses, and the semi-syn 10w30 Monolec engine oil has better TFOUT performance than just about anything out there, even esters! (TFOUT is perhaps the best test inidcator of oxidation resistance). This is in part because of its stout add pack, but also its dino/syn base stock engineering. Paraffin oils have over 30,000 variants based on the minerals contained in the petroleum - LE uses only the best, and have learned some tricks over the years that are not easily explained in 30-second Web sound bites.
LE-607 sitting in a bottle is completely stable. While oil does "time out", that is primarily because it can turn acidic, caused by sulfurs in the air and as a byproduct of combustion reacting with water to form acids.
You may be mixing up acidification and oxidation in your recommendation and comments.
S2000's come with a dino 90w - I posted in detail that a multi-vis 75 or 80w90 is nowhere near the spec of a 90w. LE-607 has a uniquely low pour point for a 90w - -11degF!!! So while it is not to be used in Wisconsin in the Winter, it has flexibility the competition lacks. Plus, incredible load bearing capability.
05-30-2006, 06:07 PM
#26
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1) On clarification: Glad to help - nice to be back on a Forum where people take constructive feedback as part of an info sharing continuum, not as a threat - I have all but left Acura-TL.com because I got tired of being told I was an idiot because I did not agree with someone on this or that - never mind that their idiot credentials were well established. :-)
2) On LC20 to (and FP60). I rarely endorse additives, as most who have followed my postings will be well aware. There is good science around the quality of the LC/FP products, which are made by lubecontrol.com and have nothing to do with Lubrication Engineers. LC20 is a very strong and effective cleaner that eats through carbon like a hot knife through butter. But it is not harmful to engine parts in any manner I have yet seen. The chemical analysis is bona fide and it does what it says.
I am not sure if it extends OCI's to 10k miles - I used it for about 7500 in several runs with Havoline and Motorcraft synblend, and the UOA looked good, but there was not much left on the shelf (that is, the TL had chewed up the oil at that point pretty much - it was a winter fill which is toughest on oil BTW). But the critical insolubles in the oil looked excellent - these represent by-products of combustion which normnally hang around and can accumulate over time. Even with synoils - in fact. some syns leave tenacious deposits when they oxidize!!!
I am continuing to use LP20, but not in either the automatic, let alone the S2K's manual. Not sure of benefits, and there are many unknowns, so I would not rec that without lots of real-world data. I use about 1/4 of what LC recommends, as there rec goes back many years, when engines were dirtier.
FP60 is a fuel additive with some cryptic claims that are not clear to me, but again, its formulation is bona fide, and it does what it says. It will coat trhe fuel system, protect against corrosion, lube the injectors, and clean them. I am not sure whether it is better than top tier FI cleaners like the ones I mentioned in my "What's in those FI cleaners?" post: RedLijne SI-series, Regane, and Techron.
I am posting some info on ethanol in an RR Journal where I mention some of the caveats of the "20th century wonder additive" in the 21st century.
RR.
2) On LC20 to (and FP60). I rarely endorse additives, as most who have followed my postings will be well aware. There is good science around the quality of the LC/FP products, which are made by lubecontrol.com and have nothing to do with Lubrication Engineers. LC20 is a very strong and effective cleaner that eats through carbon like a hot knife through butter. But it is not harmful to engine parts in any manner I have yet seen. The chemical analysis is bona fide and it does what it says.
I am not sure if it extends OCI's to 10k miles - I used it for about 7500 in several runs with Havoline and Motorcraft synblend, and the UOA looked good, but there was not much left on the shelf (that is, the TL had chewed up the oil at that point pretty much - it was a winter fill which is toughest on oil BTW). But the critical insolubles in the oil looked excellent - these represent by-products of combustion which normnally hang around and can accumulate over time. Even with synoils - in fact. some syns leave tenacious deposits when they oxidize!!!
I am continuing to use LP20, but not in either the automatic, let alone the S2K's manual. Not sure of benefits, and there are many unknowns, so I would not rec that without lots of real-world data. I use about 1/4 of what LC recommends, as there rec goes back many years, when engines were dirtier.
FP60 is a fuel additive with some cryptic claims that are not clear to me, but again, its formulation is bona fide, and it does what it says. It will coat trhe fuel system, protect against corrosion, lube the injectors, and clean them. I am not sure whether it is better than top tier FI cleaners like the ones I mentioned in my "What's in those FI cleaners?" post: RedLijne SI-series, Regane, and Techron.
I am posting some info on ethanol in an RR Journal where I mention some of the caveats of the "20th century wonder additive" in the 21st century.
RR.
05-31-2006, 01:10 PM
#28
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With an -11 degree F pour point ... I would think LE-607 would be OK for Wisconsin?
I drive my S2000 year round but rarely take it out below 25 degrees F.
With a proper low speed "warm-up", I havn't experienced any problems.
What am I missing?
I drive my S2000 year round but rarely take it out below 25 degrees F.
With a proper low speed "warm-up", I havn't experienced any problems.
What am I missing?
05-07-2008, 07:58 PM
#29
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Greetings Road Rage,
I know everyone in the L.E. family respects you and appreciates your integrity when discussing brands. In some instances you recommend us and when you think otherwise you say so. This un-biased reporting of the facts as you uncover them is proof of your honesty and knowledge. That being said, I must ask you this, did you know L.E. has re-formulated the gear oils and they go by the name " Duolec Vari-Purpose Gear Oil. If you liked 607 you are going to love this product.
I know everyone in the L.E. family respects you and appreciates your integrity when discussing brands. In some instances you recommend us and when you think otherwise you say so. This un-biased reporting of the facts as you uncover them is proof of your honesty and knowledge. That being said, I must ask you this, did you know L.E. has re-formulated the gear oils and they go by the name " Duolec Vari-Purpose Gear Oil. If you liked 607 you are going to love this product.
05-07-2008, 11:24 PM
#30
Oil as it stands alone, will never go bad (remember it is many millions of years old to begin with) but it will overtime become diluted and polluted.
Additive packages are probably volatile and will lose some of the lubricating properties that each company so vigorousy promotes.
Follow the oil companys recs and relax.
Additive packages are probably volatile and will lose some of the lubricating properties that each company so vigorousy promotes.
Follow the oil companys recs and relax.
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