Fatman13

i was told i had bad bearings becuase my engine was makin a pretty bad ticking noise i pulled the oil pan and one of the rods had marks on it could you guys tell me if these are burn marks due to a worn bearing thanks.

AlexS2200

Unbolt the rod cap, take it off and you will clearly see the bearing scortched if its bad. If it looks polished then its going to go soon. If its loose, same thing its scortched. You'll also see white marks on the crank journal showing the scortch marks. Usually its rod number 4 that spins first, IMO.

usermiaewa

Here is a site with some pictures of bearing failures

http://www.nb-cofrisa.com/docs/web_fallos_ing.PDF

Mike

Fatman13

wow thanks im gonna check them out today

Olegator

let us know the results

Fatman13

Heres the bearing to cylinder 4 not ass bad as i thought but i dont have much experience here so any advice on what happend or what to do would be much appreciated thanks.

Fatman13

would that be enough damage to make a noticible ticking sound from the engine

prolux

I would say yes. Theres def summin not right there. Those marks are from heat, and in your second pic down looking above the obvious marks you can see the faint line where it was brushing. Also take note that the bearing cap bolts should be replaced also when you put it back together. I think you will get away with new bearings. Do them all while your there too, cause it looks like it was low on oil at one point to do that.

Fatman13

thanks didnt no about the bolts but yea im gonna replace all the bearing what about the rods should they be replaced i cant find any noticible marks on my crank so i think thats fine. anything else i should replace while im down there? thanks.

prolux

Well if you wanna replace your rods you'll be up for alot more money. Its alot more engine work. I wouldnt. Just get new bearings (correct ones) and replace them all, get new bolts. Then you can check your crush to see if your rods are still within tolerance. Get some stuff called plasti-guage, its like a strand of plastic thats very fine, you put a little bit inbetween your bearing and crank horizontally, bolt it all up to spec, then undo it and the guage will have squashed down, then on the paper it comes in you can put it next to a scale and how much it has flattened out will determine the 'crush' inbetween the bearing and journal. As long as thats in tolerance it should be sweet. Then just put it together again without the guage and its done. Im not 100%, but I would maybe save your new bolts for the final stage, so they only get torqued up once. If it were me Id use my old bolts to check the crush. Maybe someone else can chime in on that? You just dont want used bolts to snap off in the rod.