Wont start, possible immobilizer? ODB not connecting
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey Flanders, It's definitely a UK car, there is no green key light coming on the dash when I insert the key and turn it, I am yet to conclude if this is highlighting the issue, what I do know is I've replaced the immobiliser and its not helped the issue
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windhund116 (02-20-2024)
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since the above is posted from the Service Manual may we assume you've looked at the Immobilizer section starting at p. 22-192? (Yeah, I'm losing track of the details in this thread. )
Fuse 25 seems to control the immobilizer including the indicator light.
-- Chuck
Fuse 25 seems to control the immobilizer including the indicator light.
-- Chuck
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windhund116 (02-20-2024)
#53
Ok found it was 2002 car.
There's a few interesting pins on ecu connector A that you can check for voltage, thinking mainly on 12 and 15.
Check picture bellow.
After that I would check fuel pump circuit, main relay is not that uncommon to go bad and would explain if fuel pump is not priming.
There's a few interesting pins on ecu connector A that you can check for voltage, thinking mainly on 12 and 15.
Check picture bellow.
After that I would check fuel pump circuit, main relay is not that uncommon to go bad and would explain if fuel pump is not priming.
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TobesVibration (03-24-2024)
#54
find whatever aftermarket UK thing is there(assuming it is) and delete it.
check for voltage at the PGMFI Main relay IN and OUT.
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#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey everyone, I'm back, sadly been away for nearly a month, car still sat on drive I've got to find the problem, so would be super grateful for continued help, the last two replies are below and Im a bit confused, so if thats ok, could you help me understand?
Hi Spider, I'm not sure what you mean by UK aftermarket thing, could that be the Thatcham alarm? How would you delete that, maybe I am confused here?
Also, where is the PGMFI, sorry for the stupid question
Flanders, thanks, this seems logical to check, as its quite possible its an electrical fault Im trying to find, however, where is this ECU connector? When I know where it is, do you suggest, unplugging it, turning car ignition to ON and then testing with multimeter?
Lastly, the last point you made about checking the fuel pump circuit, which bit exactly do you recommend checking?
I apologise to you all for the dumb questions, Im not completely useless, hence can troubleshoot and have an ok understanding of electronics, but not sure where Im meant to be testing here from the diagram you posted?
Thanks so much for the help everyone
I am praying I can find the fault
Also, where is the PGMFI, sorry for the stupid question
Ok found it was 2002 car.
There's a few interesting pins on ecu connector A that you can check for voltage, thinking mainly on 12 and 15.
Check picture bellow.
After that I would check fuel pump circuit, main relay is not that uncommon to go bad and would explain if fuel pump is not priming.
There's a few interesting pins on ecu connector A that you can check for voltage, thinking mainly on 12 and 15.
Check picture bellow.
After that I would check fuel pump circuit, main relay is not that uncommon to go bad and would explain if fuel pump is not priming.
Lastly, the last point you made about checking the fuel pump circuit, which bit exactly do you recommend checking?
I apologise to you all for the dumb questions, Im not completely useless, hence can troubleshoot and have an ok understanding of electronics, but not sure where Im meant to be testing here from the diagram you posted?
Thanks so much for the help everyone
I am praying I can find the fault
#57
> Hi Spider, I'm not sure what you mean by UK aftermarket thing, could that be the Thatcham alarm? How would you delete that, maybe I am confused here?
He means to remove all of the splicing/wiring connected to the Thatcham alarm.
Electronic diagnostics in cars are detailed step by step in the service manual--but I'll give a quick summary of what it generally tries to do:
1. Check for continuity between ground. This is easy to do. Set your multimeter to continuity (or resistance if it is not present on your tool), and make sure that it shares continuity/low resistance number between the Ground wire and any unpainted surface.
2. Check for continuity between each pin. This one is more challenging, so you might need a longer probe, but essentially it is: remove the connector (or use a backprobe), insert one end into the corresponding pin (pin 1 or something), and then insert the other end where pin 1 is labeled as in the wiring diagram.
This lets you know if the wires are the issue here.
From there, you can start checking voltages. This varies from component to component, so please refer to the service manual.
The ECU is located on the drivers side. Google it for more information/diagram/videos. ECM connector A should be 31-GRY (Number of holes - Color), ECM connector B is 24-WHT.
He means to remove all of the splicing/wiring connected to the Thatcham alarm.
Electronic diagnostics in cars are detailed step by step in the service manual--but I'll give a quick summary of what it generally tries to do:
1. Check for continuity between ground. This is easy to do. Set your multimeter to continuity (or resistance if it is not present on your tool), and make sure that it shares continuity/low resistance number between the Ground wire and any unpainted surface.
2. Check for continuity between each pin. This one is more challenging, so you might need a longer probe, but essentially it is: remove the connector (or use a backprobe), insert one end into the corresponding pin (pin 1 or something), and then insert the other end where pin 1 is labeled as in the wiring diagram.
This lets you know if the wires are the issue here.
From there, you can start checking voltages. This varies from component to component, so please refer to the service manual.
The ECU is located on the drivers side. Google it for more information/diagram/videos. ECM connector A should be 31-GRY (Number of holes - Color), ECM connector B is 24-WHT.
The following 2 users liked this post by bad_driver:
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#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
#59
I genuinely have no context on the Thatcher alarm system and it would be disingenuous for me to advise you any further.
The United States models do not have such an aftermarket system fitted and have all of the immobilizer tech on the ECM/receiver side. I assume yours is likely compromised somewhere in the signal chain with the Thatcher system.
The stuff you are saying is legitimately concerning, I have never heard of breaking a chip off of an immobilizer to remove an aftermarket alarm system.
Even more annoyingly, I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the Thatcher. I would do some investigation to see if you could find the actual Thatcher unit itself. I'd start from the ECU side, investigating the connectors, until you find a mysterious device that is connected to it that is not mentioned in the service manual.
If you are still struggling with finding the Thatcher unit itself and investigating the wires there, it might be time to call it quits and call in a specialist.
The United States models do not have such an aftermarket system fitted and have all of the immobilizer tech on the ECM/receiver side. I assume yours is likely compromised somewhere in the signal chain with the Thatcher system.
The stuff you are saying is legitimately concerning, I have never heard of breaking a chip off of an immobilizer to remove an aftermarket alarm system.
Even more annoyingly, I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the Thatcher. I would do some investigation to see if you could find the actual Thatcher unit itself. I'd start from the ECU side, investigating the connectors, until you find a mysterious device that is connected to it that is not mentioned in the service manual.
If you are still struggling with finding the Thatcher unit itself and investigating the wires there, it might be time to call it quits and call in a specialist.
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TobesVibration (04-03-2024)
#60
Flanders, thanks, this seems logical to check, as its quite possible its an electrical fault Im trying to find, however, where is this ECU connector? When I know where it is, do you suggest, unplugging it, turning car ignition to ON and then testing with multimeter?
Lastly, the last point you made about checking the fuel pump circuit, which bit exactly do you recommend checking?
I apologise to you all for the dumb questions, Im not completely useless, hence can troubleshoot and have an ok understanding of electronics, but not sure where Im meant to be testing here from the diagram you posted?
Lastly, the last point you made about checking the fuel pump circuit, which bit exactly do you recommend checking?
I apologise to you all for the dumb questions, Im not completely useless, hence can troubleshoot and have an ok understanding of electronics, but not sure where Im meant to be testing here from the diagram you posted?
Going to need really small probes on your multimeter, or just a piece of wire between connector and probe.
If you look at the circuit diagram I posted you can see ecu A15 drives the coil on the main relay which closes the contact on pin4 that supplies power to fuel pump.
As for locations on ecu, main relay etc try searching in UK section as the placement will be different than on LHD cars that I'm familiar with.
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