Nick.

damn i wanna do brake lines too! can you post links and p#s?

im ordering my overflow tonight, i'll post pics when i get it!

daverx7

If you want to stay in stock class in autocross, you will want to keep your current battery and in its current spot. That much weight reduction is going to be minimum improvement in times, if any. I would invest those $$$ in other things... i.e. Evolution School.... driving skills.

However, if you are going to do the the Wire Tuck, I am not sure what class that is going to put you. Then, it really doesn't matter.

-Dave

Tech7427

Yes I will post numbers etc

s2guru

Tech7427: let me know, i'm selling it, brand new.

josh7owens: if you s2k is a DD i would think about, with that battery you saving like 17 lbs from the original, for me is not about saving weigh because i'm pushing a lot of power.

Nick.

im contemplating locating the battery to where you have it on the first page.
would the oem battery fit there?

josh7owens

i know i know dave lol but our region isn't very strict at all. the c5 is running rears all the way around and has a full exhaust. I do need to keep it see able bc they have to make sure its tied down.

daverx7

Actually, our region is like most others. The competitors protest if something isn't legal, but as a general rule it doesn't happen much. If something is perceived as a real advantage and they start to win, that is when attitudes change.

What usually happens... if a competitor has something that is out of bounds, they proactively go to each competitor and make sure they are okay with them running in that class. I did this when I ran with my Mugen HT and SS Wing, and got their okay as it did not provide any performance benefit at autocross speeds. BTW, are you sure that C4 is illegal?

This is getting way off topic, so I will stop.... My apologies to the OP.

-Dave

Tech7427

I don't know if it would fit there or not. Get a braille battery
And it will.

Tech7427

For previous questions:

Brake System

- Earls Stainless Steel Braided -3an Line
- There are many different lengths you can obtain from summitracing.com.

- Brake Master Cylinder/Clutch Master Cylinder/ Bulkheads
- The stock threads on these components are 10x1.0mm. The adapters are from Earls the fittings are male-male adapters -3an to 10x1.0mm.

- Fitting List

- 2 -3an T's
- 8 -3an to 10x1.0mm adapters ( bulkheads,cmc,bmc,prop valve)
- 7 Brake lines various lengths. mostly 36" 10" 26" and one very long one for the right front brake

- Remote battery terminals
- Can be found on summitracing for around 18$ they utilize a 1.25" hole.

- A/C Delete
- The ac lines have been removed for now until the time come where i get some custom ones made. The A/C compressor will be removed and the belt replaced with P/N 6PK1145. This is a shorter belt and allows you to delete the ac compressor

- Locations
- Underhood Fuse Box is now under the dash. There are about 6 wire you have to extend in order to push the harness back through the firewall grommet.

- The Battery is located in the cubby near where some people like to mount the underhood fuse box.

- The EPS unit is also located in that cubby as well in the right front fender.

- The secondary fuse box is located in the left front fender and from there the starter wire goes through a hole in between the firewall and the fender spot welds.

- The Power feed for the starter (before the fuse) comes under the wiper cowl, through another hole in the right front fender well and to the battery.

- The Alternator wire goes through the firewall with an available grommet that comes stock on the car. From there it goes under the dash, across the middle, and to the fuse box under dash.

- All wiper motor wires will need to be extened to go through the fender hole and no the firewall grommet.

- Grounds for the headlight and wiper motor are relocated just under the fender mounting area on the frame. I Drilled a 1/4" hole and used a bolt and nut to secure the grounds on left and right side harnesses.

- The eps wires will need to be depinned from their connector accordingly so you can push the harness through the hole in the right front fender welll. The wires run from their control unit, across the fender liner, down through the headlight opening and secured to the frame and then enters the cross member ( you will need a coat hanger to fish the wires through) the wires then come out on the other side of the frame rail through the same size hole. All 5 wires will need to be extened. the steering torque sensor and the power wires for the motor it self.

- i deleted the cruise control in its entirity. i do not use this and this is up to your discretion.

- The boost solenoid wiring is routed into the vtec harness and through the coil pack harness , out the back and follows the main engine loom into the engine cabin where it plugs into the aem ems.

- The Boost Gauge reference line goes from the vacuum block on the firewall, through another hole in the firewall and under the dash to the gauge.

- The wideband harness will be routed from the top of the sensor on the downpipe, across the back of the engine bay and under the main loom into the cabin.

- The battery is a Deka ETX-14 with 200cca. this is the same as the braille lightweight battery.


im sure there is some im forgetting... any more ?'s feel free to ask.

Tech7427

Engine Bay w/ Terminals


Terminal Location


Vacuum Bleeding the brakes


Backside of terminals


After all this i also managed to Install a nice set of Alpine Type-S Speakers in the car compliments of my friend tim. He just gave them to me as a gift. The stock speaker mount will need to be removed from the door panel and the backside will need to be cut off to make room for the extra depth of the speakers. They will not hit the window. lol