DavidCa

I recently installed a CT supercharger kit on my AP1. I can feel a nice kick in power around 4k rpm, but it seems to rev limit at 7k rpm. It doesn't seem like VTEC is kicking in at all. There is no other mods on this vehicle and there is no CEL.

I've went through and double checked all my work, all the electronic connectors, and engine oil level. Any idea as to what may cause these symptoms? I just need some suggestions before I take everything out and re-install everything again.

Xanos

Bad vacuum line or misplaced? Motor isn't warmed up?(I only say that one cause my VTEC won't kick in if it isn't warmed up)

I can't give a lot of help, but I know my car is very finiky about if everything isn't perfect vtec won't kick in.

Brndon

Dont take my word for it but i remember seeing a thread awhile back and someone said thatll happen when you dont have big enough injectors, ie. not getting enough fuel; but like i said this could be completley wrong

DavidCa

My engine was warm before I tried to take it into vtec, I did a couple miles of local driving and about ten miles of freeway driving before I gunned it.

The SC kit came with a fuel pump and a fuel regulator, but not injectors. Since this is the stock setup from CT, I don't think I need to upgrade the injectors. If I am not getting enough fuel, I would suspect it would be due to a fuel leak. I checked the fittings in the fuel regulator and fuel rail area. I have yet to open up my fuel tank to double check the pump fittings.

xviper

If you have the base CT kit, it was designed to work perfectly with an otherwise stock AP1. If it ran fine before the install, it's not going to be anything to do with the stock parts on the car. The only minor adjustment is to re-gap the plugs narrower as per the suggestion in the CT manual. The plugs should also be relatively new. Stay away from goofy "designer" plugs.
The only real "electronics" with a CT kit is the MAP clamp. A few people have made the mistake of not soldering those connections. Crimped connections don't transmit the signal well on a CT but this usually results in a CEL pointing towards a MAP sensor problem or a manifold pressure problem.
Was it a used kit? Perhaps the previous owner adjusted the fuel pressure regulator for his car and that setting won't work for yours. If you didn't connect up a good solid hose line to feed the CT FPR, it won't ramp up the pressure sufficiently. The FPR must see true manifold boost pressure. If you've got open sources in any of the hose lines running in or out of the intake manifold like catch cans or boost gauge lines that aren't sealed up well, you could be losing boost pressure, which would also reduce the pressure going to the FPR.
What else have you done to the engine?

DavidCa

This is a otherwise stock engine. I used the 0.4mm Denso iridium plugs provided in the SC kit. I didn't think I have to gap those. It is a brand new kit.

My gut feeling tells me that it have to do with that piggyback CPU, just because I spent a lot of time awkwardly fiddling with those connectors in that cramped space.

xviper

Unless CT has changed the kit, there was no piggy back ECU with the original design, only a "MAP clamp" and all that did was to hide boost from the ECU.
Are you sure about the 0.4mm gap? That's 1/2 what it should be for a supercharged application. Plus, you ALWAYS check gap on spark plugs before you install them. Just because they come "pre-gapped" doesn't mean they are correct. Finally, I don't know why CT would choose Iridium plugs for their kits. It has been noted that on quite a few supercharged applications, Iridium plugs cause a high rpm miss what doesn't throw a code but can be felt and heard.

DavidCa

Thanks for that info on the spark plugs. I always see a warning on the box that says do not gap. I never thought twice about it. It's on my to check list now.

The kit comes with a piggyback CPU now. It got all these bulky connectors and they have you trying to hide it all behind the kick plate with the factory CPU. So you're down there with your shoulders cramped between the seat and steering wheel with a flashlight in your mouth trying bundle up all the wiring.

Sylvain2000

Take the seat out and lay down on your back. Get a good light and it gets easier.

The kit suplied by ct is an ems ( electronic signal modifier ) and it hides the boost as previously stated.

As viper said. WELD THOSE WIRE. DO NOT USE THE CLAMP PROVIDED

Good luck

s2000Junky

First thing I would check is if your getting enough fuel. I assume your running as wideband to check your afr because only foolish people would consider running this kit blind. If your fpr isnt adjusted with high enough fuel pressure you can run lean enough to run out of power and burn up your motor. You should be in the 11.5-12.5afr range to be safe. Did your kit come with an upgraded fuel pump? The stock fuel pump will not supply enough fuel for this kit. Are you seeing the full 5-6psi at your boost gauge you are running? That will tell you if your belt is slipping and you are not gaining enough psi. This boost gauge is also necessary to have for trouble shooting/maintenance. You may want to take a couple pics of the engine bay, in particular the vac lines and fpr. We can go from there. If your not getting any cel, I’m inclined to think its not anything miss wired or electrical, but just simply something overlooked in SC adjustment or install.

The plugs you should be using are one step colder then stock, so an 8 heat range from NGK or a 24 from Denso are correct. The gap should be in the 0.30 range, any larger gap and the engine can start to miss, any smaller gap and you can lose some fuel efficiency. At the base pressure you are seeing with this kit 5-7psi. Spark gap is a bit more forgiving, as you get higher in boost, the gap because more crucial.

***If its a later CT-Engineering kit, it does come with a small piggy back which is a MAP clamp, timing retard and fuel curve pre set all in one and is PNP so nothing has to be spliced into the factory harness. If it is the old Comptech kit then its just the ESM to clamp the map and this does have to be spliced in and that is easy to get wrong the first time doing it, so double/triple check that these wires are coupled with the correct corresponding ecu wires and that they are soldered in well.