Will AP2 Differential fit in AP1?
#1
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Will AP2 Differential fit in AP1?
Blew my diff, looking for a new one and the ony thing ive been able to find is a stock ap2... I've heard that it fits, but will need some modification...
Can anyone help on this???
THanks...
Can anyone help on this???
THanks...
#4
I think you'll need to salvage the input flange from the old diff. Your propshaft end doesn't quite match up with the AP2 diff flange.
The flange I'm talking about is the round disc on top:
There isn't much difference between the two except some say the AP2 is a little stronger, but this needs some proving to be sure. Of course, the AP2 one will likely have less use on it. Gearing is all the same.
The flange I'm talking about is the round disc on top:
There isn't much difference between the two except some say the AP2 is a little stronger, but this needs some proving to be sure. Of course, the AP2 one will likely have less use on it. Gearing is all the same.
#7
I have looked at both the Ap1 and the Ap2 real well and I don't think it will be any stronger. The torsion unit caps are square instead of arched. There is still the same weak spot on the cap. The metal they use on these rearends is to cr crap. The best thing you can do is take it to someone to cryo treat it. You need to take the alum housing off and loosen the bolts to the caps. Treat it then replace the yoke seal and but ti back together. That will make it the best it can be. I have done several this way without any problems.
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xviper Posted on Jul 20 2006, 06:57 PM
And that old flange isn't just a bolt-on.
To use your old flange on a used complete AP2 diff you probably need a new crush sleeve to get the right preset torque on the flange.
That torque is needed for the two pinion bearings.
And you need a new locking nut.
To get the old crush sleeve out you need to get the pinion seal out, if it gets damaged (most likely) you need a new seal too.
You also need to get the small pinion bearing out to get at the crush sleeve.
And I think its not easy (if not impossible) to get that bearing out without opening the diff and removing the Torsen to push the pinion forward.
That's almost a complete rebuild.
Rebuild without new parts.
And it needs to be set up again (contact patch, Torsen preload, backlash)
Not a simple DIY.
But.....
It is easy to get the AP2 flange out without doing damage.
It is possible to put the AP1 flange in wihtout doing damage (use a lot of grease and clean the seal ect)
I would recommend taking the back cover off to support the pinion when the flange is off.
It doesn't take much force to push the new flange on but you don't want to press the pinion against the ring gear to much (not al all actually)
If you put the new flange in and IF you are able to get the right preset torque you're
I'm sorry for getting a little technical.
I think you'll need to salvage the input flange from the old diff.
To use your old flange on a used complete AP2 diff you probably need a new crush sleeve to get the right preset torque on the flange.
That torque is needed for the two pinion bearings.
And you need a new locking nut.
To get the old crush sleeve out you need to get the pinion seal out, if it gets damaged (most likely) you need a new seal too.
You also need to get the small pinion bearing out to get at the crush sleeve.
And I think its not easy (if not impossible) to get that bearing out without opening the diff and removing the Torsen to push the pinion forward.
That's almost a complete rebuild.
Rebuild without new parts.
And it needs to be set up again (contact patch, Torsen preload, backlash)
Not a simple DIY.
But.....
It is easy to get the AP2 flange out without doing damage.
It is possible to put the AP1 flange in wihtout doing damage (use a lot of grease and clean the seal ect)
I would recommend taking the back cover off to support the pinion when the flange is off.
It doesn't take much force to push the new flange on but you don't want to press the pinion against the ring gear to much (not al all actually)
If you put the new flange in and IF you are able to get the right preset torque you're
I'm sorry for getting a little technical.
#9
As always, you are 100% correct. This is like another part of the rear calibration after a gear install. With luck, you may be able to just bolt the thing on, but after all the torque measurements, like Spitfire just indicated, you may have to take the diff apart.