S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

why replace the oil jet banjo bolts?

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Old 05-11-2011, 03:40 PM
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I really dont think that this is an issue, there was never really a proven point that older style banjo bolts= scored cylinder walls, there are others who have had scored cylinder walls for no apparent reason and they even had the revised bolts. Its all up to you, if it gives you piece of mind go for it, if it doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it. There are tons of early ap1's out there ripping up the track/autox with no problems.
Old 05-11-2011, 04:54 PM
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They are easy to cross thread into the block, or get the alignment pin out of place. It's a tedious job and one I wouldn't consider it "easy" for most DIY'ers
Old 05-11-2011, 05:03 PM
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Updated oil jet bolts are a must for FI. I've seen a handfull of engines immediately score a cylinder after FI install with the old bolts.

Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.

Remove oil pan, and windage tray.

Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.

Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Billman250
Updated oil jet bolts are a must for FI. I've seen a handfull of engines immediately score a cylinder after FI install with the old bolts.

Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.

Remove oil pan, and windage tray.

Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.

Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
Billman, in regards to your valve retainer swap you mentioned that you swap intake side only retainers and not the exhaust side, is there any harm in swapping the ap1 exhaust retainers for ap2 exhaust retainers? I mean you might as well since your already working in the head right? Sorry to get off topic.
Old 05-11-2011, 07:57 PM
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I tried using Honda Bond to seal the oil pan but it leaked. The Honda dealer sold new a sealer that's in a pressurized can and that sealed up the pan first time.
Old 05-12-2011, 05:33 AM
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I had no issues with sealing mine with Honda bond the first try...
Old 05-13-2011, 09:27 PM
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How exactly do you seal the case? just put the material on the oil pan then quickly get in place and bolt it in and wait 24 hrs to add oil?
Old 05-13-2011, 09:55 PM
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All you need to do is follow the directions on the tube on honda bond or rtv you are using. When I did mine I used red rtv, it worked fine. Be very carefull when threading the new bolts in though. Do not install without a torque wrench, the threads are very fine, they can strip easily. I had to repair a stripped oil hole on a block, it requires a 100% tear down of the engine, not fun at all!
Old 05-14-2011, 11:53 AM
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You guys are making this sound scary.

It sounds like you might be more likely to destroy the engine putting the new bolts in than actually keeping the stock ones in and taking your chances.
Old 05-14-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
Billman, in regards to your valve retainer swap you mentioned that you swap intake side only retainers and not the exhaust side, is there any harm in swapping the ap1 exhaust retainers for ap2 exhaust retainers? I mean you might as well since your already working in the head right? Sorry to get off topic.
He had answered in another post that the AP2 retainers on the exhaust would be good for a lower RPM limit, and not to do them (heavier valvetrain I think...big valves). Also, he had mentioned that there has been no documented case of AP1 exhaust retainers failing.

If you're working on the bolts, you're in the block, not the head


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