why replace the oil jet banjo bolts?
#21
I really dont think that this is an issue, there was never really a proven point that older style banjo bolts= scored cylinder walls, there are others who have had scored cylinder walls for no apparent reason and they even had the revised bolts. Its all up to you, if it gives you piece of mind go for it, if it doesn't, I wouldn't worry about it. There are tons of early ap1's out there ripping up the track/autox with no problems.
#23
Moderator
Updated oil jet bolts are a must for FI. I've seen a handfull of engines immediately score a cylinder after FI install with the old bolts.
Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.
Remove oil pan, and windage tray.
Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.
Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.
Remove oil pan, and windage tray.
Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.
Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
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DeclanJ (12-08-2023)
#24
Updated oil jet bolts are a must for FI. I've seen a handfull of engines immediately score a cylinder after FI install with the old bolts.
Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.
Remove oil pan, and windage tray.
Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.
Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
Put the car on stands, drain oil, let it sit over night. If you dont, it will be constantly dripping oil in your face while you do the job.
Remove oil pan, and windage tray.
Replace bolts...the front bolt you will need a swivel but its no big deal. Just as easy as the other 3 bolts. Make sure you thread the bolts all the way in with the extension with your fingers. Seems many people strip them using the ratchet right away. Then the engine is junk. Use you fingers to turn the extension and run them all they way in and it will be impossible to strip them.
Use a GOOD 3/8 drive torque wrench. Torque is very critical. Torque to 16 Nm, or 12 ft-lbs.
#28
All you need to do is follow the directions on the tube on honda bond or rtv you are using. When I did mine I used red rtv, it worked fine. Be very carefull when threading the new bolts in though. Do not install without a torque wrench, the threads are very fine, they can strip easily. I had to repair a stripped oil hole on a block, it requires a 100% tear down of the engine, not fun at all!
#29
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You guys are making this sound scary.
It sounds like you might be more likely to destroy the engine putting the new bolts in than actually keeping the stock ones in and taking your chances.
It sounds like you might be more likely to destroy the engine putting the new bolts in than actually keeping the stock ones in and taking your chances.
#30
Registered User
Billman, in regards to your valve retainer swap you mentioned that you swap intake side only retainers and not the exhaust side, is there any harm in swapping the ap1 exhaust retainers for ap2 exhaust retainers? I mean you might as well since your already working in the head right? Sorry to get off topic.
If you're working on the bolts, you're in the block, not the head