why replace the oil jet banjo bolts?
#11
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#12
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I've heard it is actually not bad at all, and just need a wobble socket or U-joint for #1.
It's probably filthy/oily, but there's no way I'd equate that with a clutch.
It's probably filthy/oily, but there's no way I'd equate that with a clutch.
#13
g dammit i just check my serial number i have to do this :-( FML and i have an 02 suzuka :-(
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alright thats what i thought. Ill probably just do it myself before I up the boost and re tune. I haven't had any heating issues though but it is very cold where I live. I haven't heard of any local guys doing it even the ones that are also FI but with way more boost. It is probably worth it to get it done though and it is only about 50 bucks for the parts plus the oil. Probably hard to mess it up 2 especially if u have one of those torque wrenches that clicks and is in inch LBS.
I haven't been able to find one of those woobly joints though
#15
for forced induction motors this is a must based on everything I've read. For a naturally aspirated north american driven vehicle it isn't necessary unless you drive for long periods of time at high rpms. It is an overheating issue , the new bolts provide additional oil flow for cooling purposes.
I have an 02 s2k with an engine below the 5386 vin number, I won't be doing mine as I don't drive it at high rpms for extended periods of time - 2 hours or more at 7000 rpms seems to be the breaking point. Guys who have driven their cars on tracks and auto-x where rpms are varied though5 the car still driven hard have not had the issues, it is mostly in situations where the rpms are kept high and constant for certain periods of time without variation.
If you do yours post up your engine VIN number. That cutoff point number of 5386 in 2002 is not set in stone and in no way is official, it was never announced by Honda and it is a best guess estimaate of the switchover point. I think some people with lower 2002 vin numbers did find 4 hole banjo bolts in their cars upon disassembly. MY VIN numer is very close to 5386.
I have an 02 s2k with an engine below the 5386 vin number, I won't be doing mine as I don't drive it at high rpms for extended periods of time - 2 hours or more at 7000 rpms seems to be the breaking point. Guys who have driven their cars on tracks and auto-x where rpms are varied though5 the car still driven hard have not had the issues, it is mostly in situations where the rpms are kept high and constant for certain periods of time without variation.
If you do yours post up your engine VIN number. That cutoff point number of 5386 in 2002 is not set in stone and in no way is official, it was never announced by Honda and it is a best guess estimaate of the switchover point. I think some people with lower 2002 vin numbers did find 4 hole banjo bolts in their cars upon disassembly. MY VIN numer is very close to 5386.
#17
I am curious about this. I am supercharged, MY 01. I currently have 76,000 miles. it has been supercharger for 60,000 miles. I dont rag on the car, never been on the track, VTEC occasionally. Should I be worried about this? The longest drives I do are about 3hrs (200miles), 80mph, 4k on the tach steady.
Thanks
Thanks
#18
I am curious about this. I am supercharged, MY 01. I currently have 76,000 miles. it has been supercharger for 60,000 miles. I dont rag on the car, never been on the track, VTEC occasionally. Should I be worried about this? The longest drives I do are about 3hrs (200miles), 80mph, 4k on the tach steady.
Thanks
Thanks
The other thing is that with today's improved oils they may help with the shortfalls of the previous oil jet bolts, and if you have any cooling mods on the car that would also help. You've done well to keep the engine in good shape, good work on treating it well.
#19
^^^Thanks, I do baby the car. I just want it to last. I just have the Comptech kit (6psi), so I am not crazy boosted. Change all the fluids on a regular basis. Car runs and idles like a champ.
wow that is awesome. If you asked me 60k miles ago I would have said definitely, but your setup has stood the test of time. I'd still be of the opinion of having them on a boosted setup but it's up to you at this point. Driving for long periods of time at 4k isn't going to hurt the engine, you could drive indefinitely at that rpm, it seems to be at much higher constant rpms that cause issues , like 6000-7000 ?.
The other thing is that with today's improved oils they may help with the shortfalls of the previous oil jet bolts, and if you have any cooling mods on the car that would also help. You've done well to keep the engine in good shape, good work on treating it well.
Originally Posted by superchrgds2k' timestamp='1305144466' post='20564817
I am curious about this. I am supercharged, MY 01. I currently have 76,000 miles. it has been supercharger for 60,000 miles. I dont rag on the car, never been on the track, VTEC occasionally. Should I be worried about this? The longest drives I do are about 3hrs (200miles), 80mph, 4k on the tach steady.
Thanks
Thanks
The other thing is that with today's improved oils they may help with the shortfalls of the previous oil jet bolts, and if you have any cooling mods on the car that would also help. You've done well to keep the engine in good shape, good work on treating it well.
#20
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From what it sounds like it is primarily an issue when tracking the car. Unless you travel on the freeway in 4th gear. I am willing to bet that the issue related to FI cars is in part because a lot of FI guys track the cars and drive them hard. reving at 8K makes the pistons travel just as fast having 200rwhp or 500rwhp. Either way ill probably just do it myself because it is inexpensive for the parts. wouldn't be bad to clean out the pan anyway.
One of my concerns however is applying liquid gasket to the oil pan. Shouldn't I be worried about some getting in the crankcase? I assume that getting it in the crankcase would be bad but it would be hard to avoid since you need to apply a lot of the material and get it in place quickly before it starts drying. not to mention you have to hold it above your head while getting the first few bolts in.
One of my concerns however is applying liquid gasket to the oil pan. Shouldn't I be worried about some getting in the crankcase? I assume that getting it in the crankcase would be bad but it would be hard to avoid since you need to apply a lot of the material and get it in place quickly before it starts drying. not to mention you have to hold it above your head while getting the first few bolts in.