Why are our wheel studs so WEAK????
06-13-2002, 05:24 PM
#41
Alright, let me scare you guys with what I do and what I will continue to do for the life of this car:
Anti-Seize on threads (habit from the aluminum Porsche lug nut days) and torque wrench set to 100 (which yields ~95, cheap wrench).
Result: No broken studs and none of them are even thinking about it .......
Watch-out for me at T-Hill ..... I could be shedding tires and wheels left and right
BTW, I'm not disagreeing that the threads should be dry to get the specified clamping force with the specified torque ........... but since I ain't even shooting for the right numbers to begin with,
Anti-Seize on threads (habit from the aluminum Porsche lug nut days) and torque wrench set to 100 (which yields ~95, cheap wrench).
Result: No broken studs and none of them are even thinking about it .......
Watch-out for me at T-Hill ..... I could be shedding tires and wheels left and right
BTW, I'm not disagreeing that the threads should be dry to get the specified clamping force with the specified torque ........... but since I ain't even shooting for the right numbers to begin with,
06-13-2002, 05:47 PM
#42
Registered User
OK, my last post on the subject.
For myself and an older car, I would slightly lubricate rusty old studs or nuts with penetrating oil or thin anti-sieze. But even my beater doesn't have any corrosion.
Rusty studs are succeptable to very high friction forces and therefore torsional shear, which could damage a bolt worse than tensile stress.
But we don't have rusty parts now, do we?
Please post pictures of the failed parts (close up from the side and of the break) if you can. Some of us may be able to determine the failure mode...
For myself and an older car, I would slightly lubricate rusty old studs or nuts with penetrating oil or thin anti-sieze. But even my beater doesn't have any corrosion.
Rusty studs are succeptable to very high friction forces and therefore torsional shear, which could damage a bolt worse than tensile stress.
But we don't have rusty parts now, do we?
Please post pictures of the failed parts (close up from the side and of the break) if you can. Some of us may be able to determine the failure mode...
06-13-2002, 05:52 PM
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]Alright, let me scare you guys with what I do and what I will continue to do for the life of this car:
Anti-Seize on threads (habit from the aluminum Porsche lug nut days) and torque wrench set to 100 (which yields ~95, cheap wrench).
Result:
[B]Alright, let me scare you guys with what I do and what I will continue to do for the life of this car:
Anti-Seize on threads (habit from the aluminum Porsche lug nut days) and torque wrench set to 100 (which yields ~95, cheap wrench).
Result:
06-13-2002, 06:36 PM
#46
The first one sounds like it was stressed by being over torqued, the other two probably cross threaded. It sure appears some guy with an air wrench set you up for continuing problems.
I already have one!
06-13-2002, 06:42 PM
#48
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>>>Anti-Seize on threads (habit from the aluminum Porsche lug nut days) and torque wrench set to 100 (which yields ~95, cheap wrench).<<<
NOOOOO!
RT, you want more torque at the WHEELS, not the lug nuts!!!
(yuk yuk yuk)
Stan
NOOOOO!
RT, you want more torque at the WHEELS, not the lug nuts!!!
(yuk yuk yuk)
Stan
06-13-2002, 06:46 PM
#50
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I'd suggest replacing every stud. When a fastener is overtorqued, the metal yields...it's damaged and no longer has the strength it had before.
Not so. The metal doesn't yield until its yield strength is exceeded. I can guarantee you that manufactures do not spec their torque figures antywhere neat the yield strength of the studs.
Not so. The metal doesn't yield until its yield strength is exceeded. I can guarantee you that manufactures do not spec their torque figures antywhere neat the yield strength of the studs.