Why does my oil cap say 5W-20?
#1
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Why does my oil cap say 5W-20?
I just got my oil change done and they put in 5W-20 fully synthetic oil (royal purple). I guess it's because it says that on my oil cap. I'm supposed to put 10W-30 right? Will it be fine or should I take it back and get it re-done?
#2
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Odd, I have a MY03 and the OEM oil cap (which I don't use, so is sitting right here.) say's API SJ SAE 10W-30. I wonder if someone put the oil cap off a civic on your car.
If it were me, I would probably get it re-done. For the peace of mind if nothing else.
EDIT: If I remember right there has been like 3 or 4 threads about the OEM oil caps cracking/disintegrating and even bits of them falling into the head. I got an aluminium one from Honda, part# 08999-BOC-100. I think it's a discontinued accessory, but I could still order one at the dealership about a year ago.
I was looking at the OEM oil cap and noticed if you flip over its mostly hollow cast. The "points" on it are hollow. Also the flange between the points on the OEM cap prevent me from tightening it down like the aluminium one. The aluminium oil cap from Honda is solid and dosen't have the flange between the "points" which allows for a suprisingly better grip when tightening or loosening. One draw back is I have throw a rag over it if I'm trying to remove it when hot.
If it were me, I would probably get it re-done. For the peace of mind if nothing else.
EDIT: If I remember right there has been like 3 or 4 threads about the OEM oil caps cracking/disintegrating and even bits of them falling into the head. I got an aluminium one from Honda, part# 08999-BOC-100. I think it's a discontinued accessory, but I could still order one at the dealership about a year ago.
I was looking at the OEM oil cap and noticed if you flip over its mostly hollow cast. The "points" on it are hollow. Also the flange between the points on the OEM cap prevent me from tightening it down like the aluminium one. The aluminium oil cap from Honda is solid and dosen't have the flange between the "points" which allows for a suprisingly better grip when tightening or loosening. One draw back is I have throw a rag over it if I'm trying to remove it when hot.
#7
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Dec 23 2006, 05:44 AM
My owners manual states : 10W-30 or 5W-40.
Newer owner manuals may even state 5W-30.
Recent UOA's of dino 10W-30 show they turn into a 20 weight.
It doesn't hurt the engine.
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#8
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Dec 23 2006, 05:44 AM
My owners manual states : 10W-30 or 5W-40.
Newer owner manuals may even state 5W-30.
Recent UOA's of dino 10W-30 show they turn into a 20 weight.
It doesn't hurt the engine.
EDIT: BTW I like the avatar. "Merlin's Magic"
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Originally Posted by ej3ffrey,Dec 23 2006, 07:32 PM
so i should be ok for 3000miles/3months?
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ej3ffrey Posted on Dec 24 2006, 04:32 AM
IMO your Royal Purple 5W-20 synthetic oil is more shear stable then dino 10W-30.
IOW, the 5W-20 will "stay-in-grade", IOW will act like a 20 weight at operating time for as long as you intend to use it.
That said.. it is just my opinion.
(based on a lot of reading on BITOG, but that doesn't mean I also understand all of it , nevertheless I think most on BITOG would agree with the statement that Royal Purple 5W-20 is good oil, allthough most would also advice you to stick to the manual)
And it's your car.
If it was my car I would ask myself what RACER asked you too:
And ask myself, "Am I going to track my car or drive at high speeds at high revs for long period of times?"
I would not use xxW-20 oil on the track or at long periods of high speed, just to be on the safe side.
People using dino 10W-30 will not think twice doing that and (lets face it) they end up having a 20 weight in their engine as well and it doesn't hurt/harm it at all (as UOA's have shown)
During daily normal driving the oil temps stay normal and a 20 weight will perform good.
Maybe it all in our heads.
Use my ramblings to make up your mind.
Manual recommends 10W-30 or 5W-40.
I'm using syn 0W-30, and this 30 weight is a "thin 30 weight", IOW at the low end of the 30 weight scale
SenderGreen Posted on Dec 24 2006, 04:35 AM
No.
IMO.
Oil "turning into another weight / viscosity" is called shearing.
Modern API SL/SM synthetic 5W-20's are pretty shear stable.
IOW they "stay-in-grade".
so i should be ok for 3000miles/3months?
IOW, the 5W-20 will "stay-in-grade", IOW will act like a 20 weight at operating time for as long as you intend to use it.
That said.. it is just my opinion.
(based on a lot of reading on BITOG, but that doesn't mean I also understand all of it , nevertheless I think most on BITOG would agree with the statement that Royal Purple 5W-20 is good oil, allthough most would also advice you to stick to the manual)
And it's your car.
If it was my car I would ask myself what RACER asked you too:
What are the temps where you live? What type of driving do you do? If you use the S to drive to work, is traffic stop and go, or does it flow all the way to work?
I would not use xxW-20 oil on the track or at long periods of high speed, just to be on the safe side.
People using dino 10W-30 will not think twice doing that and (lets face it) they end up having a 20 weight in their engine as well and it doesn't hurt/harm it at all (as UOA's have shown)
During daily normal driving the oil temps stay normal and a 20 weight will perform good.
Maybe it all in our heads.
Use my ramblings to make up your mind.
Manual recommends 10W-30 or 5W-40.
I'm using syn 0W-30, and this 30 weight is a "thin 30 weight", IOW at the low end of the 30 weight scale
SenderGreen Posted on Dec 24 2006, 04:35 AM
Does that mean that a 5W-20 would turn into a 10 with use?
IMO.
Oil "turning into another weight / viscosity" is called shearing.
Modern API SL/SM synthetic 5W-20's are pretty shear stable.
IOW they "stay-in-grade".