S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

When rotating Cyl 1 to TDC

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Old 02-19-2009, 05:33 PM
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contact chris@inlinepro on here and ask him what the torque spec and his method to torque arp headstuds, he will explain it to you.
Old 02-19-2009, 08:43 PM
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1. Buy a Helms manual bofre you try this on your own (disclaimer)
2. Read the Helms manual before you try this.
3. Follow the Helms manual when you do this.


OK, the way the Helms manual reads.
1. Tighten the bolts to 22 ft-lbs in the order defined in the manual.
2. Turn each the bolt 90 degrees in the order defined.
3. Repeat step 2, for a total of 180 degrees when you are done. If your bolts were used, you are done.
4. If the bolts are new, Repeat step 2 again for a total of 270 degrees.

The ARP nuts/studs are done differantly. What that is I don't rememer.
Old 02-19-2009, 09:26 PM
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Not an expert here, but from what I understand, the OEM bolts use a 90 degree angle sequence because they are TTY ones, which stretch as you tighten them. However, the ARP studs are not TTY. In fact, they are meant to be used in cases where head removal is needed rather frequently and reusability is essential. I've heard of people following the OEM torque order, but hitting 80 pounds in steps of 20...
Old 02-19-2009, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jwa4378,Feb 19 2009, 09:08 PM
Slowly but surely. The gasket came in today. I got the intake manifold, the entire hot-side, and the valve cover off... Now I just need to set it to TDC, remove the rocker assembly / cams, and un-do the head bolts in sequence...

When using these ARP studs, it says to torque them to 80 lb/ft using the moly-lube they provided, and to use the OEM sequence. The OEM sequence is to take them all to 22 lb/ft in sequence, then a series of 90* turns in sequence (2 for pre-stretched bolts, 3 for new bolts/studs.... 3 in my case). Should I just set the torque wrench to 80, then do the sequence as usual? I am wondering what happens if I hit 80lb/ft part-way through the 2nd or 3rd 90* sequence? Should I just stop there, or should I continue through the sequence? If I do not his 80 lb/ft by the time the 3rd sequence is done, I assume I would continue going until 80 is hit...

A local shop is going to check it for straightness for free... They can also mill the head into spec if needed...

John
someone on the boards said that they got to around 180ft/lbs with the oem head studs, on that last 90 degree turn for a new set of OEM's. You will get nowhere near to that with the ARP's. When i did the job, i did the sequence to 22 ft/lbs, then did the sequence again, to 22ft/lbs because the first bolt i had done in sequence was now more loose than it was at the beginning of the sequence.

None of this means anything to you because the ARP's are torqued to 80ft/lbs in a 20 or 10 ft/lbs sequence. You will have to talk to ARP to be sure, but i'd go smaller steps if you have the time and patience.
Old 02-20-2009, 07:07 AM
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If you use ARP studs and nuts you MUST follow their direction unless you want another headgasket leak. The max torque is only 80 ft/lbs.

The Helm manual torque technique only applies to oem bolts.
Old 02-20-2009, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Kirpich,Feb 19 2009, 05:00 PM
Clockwise when facing the engine/crank pulley for _sure_. that's the half of the timing chain that is supposed to be straight between the crank gear adn the idler gear on the cams. That's on the right side.

The left side has the cam chain tensioner, and it needs about 30 psi of oil pressure to work properly, and take off the slack.

What thickness HG are you putting in? If a 3mm, then you might consider shaving off the little metal knob on the chain tensioning guide, it's about size of a quarter, a bit thick. That way your chain tensioner will have a bit of slack. I had a problem with it.
That is what I thought, otherwise you will hit the valves.
Old 02-20-2009, 10:32 AM
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Awesome. Yeah, I thought it was clockwise because of the way the tensioner pulley engages the drive belt on the outside of the motor... It tightens in a clockwise fashion... I would imagine they would not run the belt against this tension, but rather with it.

I am going to take it up in steps of 10 to the ARP recommended 80 lb/ft. To what setting should I anchor the studs (prior to torquing the nuts to the 80 lb/ft)? Its an allen head on the top of the stud, so I assume not too tight... Hand tight (with hand allen key)?

John
Old 02-20-2009, 05:54 PM
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If you're using ARP stud kit, definitely take your time to call them and talk to them, or InlinePro. These guys will know. The sequence of bolt tightening pattern still applies, though. Just not the torque specs.


ARP:
Order Desk & Technical Support: 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200, fax: 805.650.0742, info@arpfasteners.com
[from their website]

Inline Performance Products
Phone: (703) 455-5805

-Remember your injured fingers- -Don't do it twice-
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