When rotating Cyl 1 to TDC
02-19-2009, 11:42 AM
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When rotating Cyl 1 to TDC
Hey guys-
I am replacing my head gasket on my turbo s2k. I have the intake manifold already removed and now need to turn the engine so the cams are at TDC before they are are removed (according to the HELMS manual). It does not say which way to turn the crank, though...
When facing the pulley, clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks!
John
I am replacing my head gasket on my turbo s2k. I have the intake manifold already removed and now need to turn the engine so the cams are at TDC before they are are removed (according to the HELMS manual). It does not say which way to turn the crank, though...
When facing the pulley, clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks!
John
02-19-2009, 04:00 PM
#4
Clockwise when facing the engine/crank pulley for _sure_. that's the half of the timing chain that is supposed to be straight between the crank gear adn the idler gear on the cams. That's on the right side.
The left side has the cam chain tensioner, and it needs about 30 psi of oil pressure to work properly, and take off the slack.
What thickness HG are you putting in? If a 3mm, then you might consider shaving off the little metal knob on the chain tensioning guide, it's about size of a quarter, a bit thick. That way your chain tensioner will have a bit of slack. I had a problem with it.
The left side has the cam chain tensioner, and it needs about 30 psi of oil pressure to work properly, and take off the slack.
What thickness HG are you putting in? If a 3mm, then you might consider shaving off the little metal knob on the chain tensioning guide, it's about size of a quarter, a bit thick. That way your chain tensioner will have a bit of slack. I had a problem with it.
02-19-2009, 04:59 PM
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OEM headgasket. Its a Laskey 9:1 motor. The previous owner did not re-torque the head bolts after installing them... head lifted / gasket failed as a result. I am upgrading to ARP studs now, as I have an extra set lying around from the 3mm head gasket I never installed (went with a built block)...
I just hope its just the gasket... Got the intake manifold all removed today. Damn those lower bolts were a PAIN to get! My hands are still hurting! These cars were definitely designed for little asian hands!
John
I just hope its just the gasket... Got the intake manifold all removed today. Damn those lower bolts were a PAIN to get! My hands are still hurting! These cars were definitely designed for little asian hands!
John
02-19-2009, 05:08 PM
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Slowly but surely. The gasket came in today. I got the intake manifold, the entire hot-side, and the valve cover off... Now I just need to set it to TDC, remove the rocker assembly / cams, and un-do the head bolts in sequence...
When using these ARP studs, it says to torque them to 80 lb/ft using the moly-lube they provided, and to use the OEM sequence. The OEM sequence is to take them all to 22 lb/ft in sequence, then a series of 90* turns in sequence (2 for pre-stretched bolts, 3 for new bolts/studs.... 3 in my case). Should I just set the torque wrench to 80, then do the sequence as usual? I am wondering what happens if I hit 80lb/ft part-way through the 2nd or 3rd 90* sequence? Should I just stop there, or should I continue through the sequence? If I do not his 80 lb/ft by the time the 3rd sequence is done, I assume I would continue going until 80 is hit...
A local shop is going to check it for straightness for free... They can also mill the head into spec if needed...
John
When using these ARP studs, it says to torque them to 80 lb/ft using the moly-lube they provided, and to use the OEM sequence. The OEM sequence is to take them all to 22 lb/ft in sequence, then a series of 90* turns in sequence (2 for pre-stretched bolts, 3 for new bolts/studs.... 3 in my case). Should I just set the torque wrench to 80, then do the sequence as usual? I am wondering what happens if I hit 80lb/ft part-way through the 2nd or 3rd 90* sequence? Should I just stop there, or should I continue through the sequence? If I do not his 80 lb/ft by the time the 3rd sequence is done, I assume I would continue going until 80 is hit...
A local shop is going to check it for straightness for free... They can also mill the head into spec if needed...
John
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02-19-2009, 05:13 PM
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when I did mine using oem headbolts, I did the 90* sequence and some of the bolts hit the torque setting before the others, than I just kept on going in the sequence until they were all torqued. When I went to one that had already hit the torque spec. I just gave it one turn so I didnt turn it but my torque wrench clicked, if that makes sense to you.
02-19-2009, 05:29 PM
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and some of the bolts hit the torque setting before the others
If this is not the case, and I am supposed to tighten them in 90* increments from loose to the end result of 22lb/ft, let me know!
I just gave it one turn so I didnt turn it but my torque wrench clicked, if that makes sense to you.
What torque setting did you use? All I see is the 22lb/ft in Step 8, and then the 90* steps in Step 9 (which I thought was on top of the 22lb/ft baseline described above).
Thanks!
John
02-19-2009, 05:32 PM
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you are right I beleave there isnt a set torque spec in the manual, I set my torque wrench to I beleave 100 ft lbs, dont quote that. I had found a thread on here(s2ki) a while ago and went by what someone else said.