"Wheelhop" while accelerating?
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jyeung528,Apr 25 2007, 09:59 AM
the TSB says to replace the inner cv joint.
i'm assuming it is damaged.
how will a swap remedy the issue if the part itself is damaged?
i'm assuming it is damaged.
how will a swap remedy the issue if the part itself is damaged?
#13
Registered User
yes, i have a long time ago.
i forget why a swap fixes it. can't remember...but i'm thinking thinking thinking...ahhh...
is it because the outer becomes the inner, and the outer is fine?
i forget why a swap fixes it. can't remember...but i'm thinking thinking thinking...ahhh...
is it because the outer becomes the inner, and the outer is fine?
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jyeung528,Apr 25 2007, 10:20 AM
yes, i have a long time ago.
i forget why a swap fixes it. can't remember...but i'm thinking thinking thinking...ahhh...
is it because the outer becomes the inner, and the outer is fine?
i forget why a swap fixes it. can't remember...but i'm thinking thinking thinking...ahhh...
is it because the outer becomes the inner, and the outer is fine?
#15
Swapping them would result in them spinning in the opposite direction, therefore the force is on the opposite face of the joints. The damaged faces would be affected if you were to accelerate heavily in reverse after a swap.
BTW: Make a visual inspection of your motor and tranny mounts. Years ago I built a Dune Buggy that had a shuddering on heavy acceleration. Stiffening up the tranny mounts got rid of the problem.
BTW: Make a visual inspection of your motor and tranny mounts. Years ago I built a Dune Buggy that had a shuddering on heavy acceleration. Stiffening up the tranny mounts got rid of the problem.
#17
Moderator
It may be possible to do it without removing the axles, HOWEVER....you will make a huge mess. The grease will run out of the boot, the bearings will fall off, and it will be very difficult to get them back together.
I recommend pulling the axles, standing them straight up, and lifting the buckets off the alxes. The bearings will stay in place, and the grease will fall in the boot.
Once complete, you will need to set the AIR GAP of each axle. This is done simply by burping the air out of the boot before re-clamping, till the axle is the correct length. The specs are in the repair manual. You can also measure them first, so you can retain the length.
You will only be removing one band clamp per axle. It is easily released with regular pliers, and re-installed with pliers. Do not use any other clamp then the original clamp. It is high quality and can be re-used for a lifetime.
Here's a pic of the bucket lifting off the axle. This one is new and clean so you can see what's in there. Yours will be a blob of grease the tool on the left is used to pop the lower ball joint.
I recommend pulling the axles, standing them straight up, and lifting the buckets off the alxes. The bearings will stay in place, and the grease will fall in the boot.
Once complete, you will need to set the AIR GAP of each axle. This is done simply by burping the air out of the boot before re-clamping, till the axle is the correct length. The specs are in the repair manual. You can also measure them first, so you can retain the length.
You will only be removing one band clamp per axle. It is easily released with regular pliers, and re-installed with pliers. Do not use any other clamp then the original clamp. It is high quality and can be re-used for a lifetime.
Here's a pic of the bucket lifting off the axle. This one is new and clean so you can see what's in there. Yours will be a blob of grease the tool on the left is used to pop the lower ball joint.
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