wheel torque
10-14-2001, 07:51 PM
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wheel torque
Just wondering if I torqued my aftermarket wheels to 100 ft/lbs would do any damage. I just know found out that they should be at 80 ft/lbs. Too bad they don't put that in the d@#n manual.
10-15-2001, 12:55 PM
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i overtorqued one of the studs and i couldnt get the rotor off to replace it so $97 and a few hours at the dealer fixed it
i felt one of the spoon lugs theyre so light you couldnt even use them as a paperweight
i felt one of the spoon lugs theyre so light you couldnt even use them as a paperweight
10-15-2001, 04:18 PM
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Proper torque of all the wheel nuts is also an extremely important step in helping to reduce the chance of rotor warping. A torque wrench should always be used, this is one of those must-have tools!
10-15-2001, 04:57 PM
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Definitely torque to the recommended 80ft/lbs. I can tell you first hand that it gets VERY expensive if you over-torque the lug nuts. I've got a bag of twenty bent/broken wheel studs sitting on my desk as a reminder to have my torque wrenches calibrated every year.
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10-16-2001, 03:26 AM
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Originally posted by jerrypeterson
.............a reminder to have my torque wrenches calibrated every year.
.............a reminder to have my torque wrenches calibrated every year.
10-16-2001, 04:44 AM
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>>>How do you calibrate a torque wrench? When I bought mine at Home Depot a couple months ago I asked this question to the sales guy and he didn't know the answer. Is there a way to calibrate on your own? Or is there some calibration "machine" out there?<<<
They are very easy to calibrate at home. Just place the square drive in a vice and with the handle exactly horizontal you can hang a weight on the handle... EZ to get a dead-on reference torque in that manner since you can measure the exact weight and distance from where the weight is hung on the handle to the centerline of the drive end.stub. The click comes from an internal spring load being overcome. So you adjust the internal spring until the unit clicks when you want it to. Don't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Store with the spring tension removed - turn the setting all the way down. Usually you have to figure out how to get "inside" to the spring adjustment yourself. A good t.orque wrench is not of much use if you use it improperly.
Don't exceed suggested fastener torque levels. You could lose a wheel at speed. Don't redo the threads on the stud if it stretches - it needs to be replaced in that instance if safety is important to you. Recheck torque periodically during speed events such as track schools. And after tires are rotated if you are anal test again after 50-100 miles of street driving. The torque needs to be even and applied in stages using the star pattern. Always hand torque where possible. Don't jerk the torque wrench.
Stan
They are very easy to calibrate at home. Just place the square drive in a vice and with the handle exactly horizontal you can hang a weight on the handle... EZ to get a dead-on reference torque in that manner since you can measure the exact weight and distance from where the weight is hung on the handle to the centerline of the drive end.stub. The click comes from an internal spring load being overcome. So you adjust the internal spring until the unit clicks when you want it to. Don't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Store with the spring tension removed - turn the setting all the way down. Usually you have to figure out how to get "inside" to the spring adjustment yourself. A good t.orque wrench is not of much use if you use it improperly.
Don't exceed suggested fastener torque levels. You could lose a wheel at speed. Don't redo the threads on the stud if it stretches - it needs to be replaced in that instance if safety is important to you. Recheck torque periodically during speed events such as track schools. And after tires are rotated if you are anal test again after 50-100 miles of street driving. The torque needs to be even and applied in stages using the star pattern. Always hand torque where possible. Don't jerk the torque wrench.
Stan