Wheel Hub and Wheel Bearings
#1
Wheel Hub and Wheel Bearings
On the Forums a lot people bring up wheel bearings and the wheel hub, I know my wheel hub is bad but does that mean I have to replace the bearings too? I get no wiggle and I think they're fine. Thanks guys
#4
The collar that the bearing rides on warps, especially when the bearing goes bad as the inner race begins to spin on the once smooth surface.
Wheel bearings are shared with other Hondas as are the hubs, the bearings are NSK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NSK-Japanese...ZWgx0m&vxp=mtr
The one you buy from the dealer is 2x as much, I don't know exactly why, maybe you're paying for a box, maybe they're special. Either way, the most important part is how it's all pressed in. I have NSK bearings and Doorman hubs which are stainless steel as opposed to cast iron OEM ones. I would have ordered OEM but I couldn't justify spending $121 for each hub, when I can get stainless steel ones with new axle nuts for $50 a pair. As far as I'm concerned they've held up fine for two years so far.
Again, you want to make sure you press the bearing into the knuckle DEAD ON!, can't go in crooked, and make sure you bottom it out. Obviously press it in from the outer race, and when you install the hub, make sure you have something to support the inner race of the bearing while you press in the hub, that's probably key to a proper installation.
Wheel bearings are shared with other Hondas as are the hubs, the bearings are NSK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NSK-Japanese...ZWgx0m&vxp=mtr
The one you buy from the dealer is 2x as much, I don't know exactly why, maybe you're paying for a box, maybe they're special. Either way, the most important part is how it's all pressed in. I have NSK bearings and Doorman hubs which are stainless steel as opposed to cast iron OEM ones. I would have ordered OEM but I couldn't justify spending $121 for each hub, when I can get stainless steel ones with new axle nuts for $50 a pair. As far as I'm concerned they've held up fine for two years so far.
Again, you want to make sure you press the bearing into the knuckle DEAD ON!, can't go in crooked, and make sure you bottom it out. Obviously press it in from the outer race, and when you install the hub, make sure you have something to support the inner race of the bearing while you press in the hub, that's probably key to a proper installation.
#6
You can if you're careful, but if the bearing is bad you should absolutely replace the hub.
If your hub is in perfect shape, you can pull off the inner race from the hub with a puller, or you can slice almost through the inner race then use a chisel to split it, it'll come right out.
If your hub is in perfect shape, you can pull off the inner race from the hub with a puller, or you can slice almost through the inner race then use a chisel to split it, it'll come right out.
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