Wheel Bearing..I think?
01-18-2007, 08:20 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by greys2k,Dec 31 2006, 11:31 AM
Here are the facts
1) Noise only occurs when the car is warm
2) Happens on the Passenger side rear wheel
3) Sounds like rubbing/squeaking
4) When I hit the brakes it doesn't make a louder sound..which cancels the idea of brakes out
5) When I turn left the noise becomes louder-when I turn right..it goes away
1) Noise only occurs when the car is warm
2) Happens on the Passenger side rear wheel
3) Sounds like rubbing/squeaking
4) When I hit the brakes it doesn't make a louder sound..which cancels the idea of brakes out
5) When I turn left the noise becomes louder-when I turn right..it goes away
Thanks.
08-23-2007, 08:38 AM
#22
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I had this same exact issue on the rear passenger side. Took it in paid about 420$. Now 14k miles later the noise started up again. Now it sounds twice as bad as before and the sound seems to be coming off both sides. Took it in to the dealer and they told me the rear drivers side bearing was destroyed. So another 420$ (Bearing and hub + labor). They also told me the left rear diff. bushing needed to be replaced (almost 500$). I passed on the diff bushing for now since I couldn't afford it and they told me that since I wasn't getting the bushing they couldn't guarantee the all the noise would go away. Now today I'm driving down the fwy and I start to hear that annoying squeek. It's not as loud as it was the 1st time but I can distinctly tell that it's coming from the passenger side.
Is this supposed to happen this frequently? The car is stock besides CAI & Exhaust.
Is this supposed to happen this frequently? The car is stock besides CAI & Exhaust.
08-23-2007, 02:12 PM
#24
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All s2ks, up to at least 2006, will have this problem.
All my customers get the axle nut "tsb" (really an article). One shot deal. As long as the problem has not progressed past phase 2 in my post above, it will never be an issue.
I recommend every s2k, even the new CR, to have this done at 5k miles. Torque can be lost from initial set-in.
Do it now, whatever mileage you are at. That way, you won't be a part of the weekly threads about "rear noise/clicking/rotational noise/bad bearing"
All my customers get the axle nut "tsb" (really an article). One shot deal. As long as the problem has not progressed past phase 2 in my post above, it will never be an issue.
I recommend every s2k, even the new CR, to have this done at 5k miles. Torque can be lost from initial set-in.
Do it now, whatever mileage you are at. That way, you won't be a part of the weekly threads about "rear noise/clicking/rotational noise/bad bearing"
08-23-2007, 02:18 PM
#25
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If a wheel bearing is replaced, AND the hub is good, AND it was supported correctly while pressing, AND the nut is tightened properly, it will never be an issue again.
If it is, one of the above was incorrectly done. Go somewhere else for the repair.
If it is, one of the above was incorrectly done. Go somewhere else for the repair.
08-23-2007, 03:12 PM
#26
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Damn. Well I'm going to call my Service advisor to make sure they did torque the nut to the proper spec. It seems like I'll be needing to replace the passenger Bearing and hub again though. Appreciate the replies Billman250.
08-27-2007, 11:31 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Billman250,Jan 4 2007, 04:41 PM
Bad bearing phases
1st....axle nut not tight enough from factory (this is why we do the TSB)
2nd...clicking noises when changing direction, from axle moving back and forth in splined hole
3rd...inner races start shifting on the hub, wearing it out, causing rotational noise, low speed creaking/clicking
4th...races lose press fit on hub, shift out of alignment, and destroy wheel bearing
1st....axle nut not tight enough from factory (this is why we do the TSB)
2nd...clicking noises when changing direction, from axle moving back and forth in splined hole
3rd...inner races start shifting on the hub, wearing it out, causing rotational noise, low speed creaking/clicking
4th...races lose press fit on hub, shift out of alignment, and destroy wheel bearing
04-25-2013, 08:00 AM
#30
Registered User
New torque is 250ft-lb.
Follow this DIY to perform it
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/929...le-nut-tsb-diy
The nut was marked from the factory to ensure alignment, so if your mark no longer aligns, then it was already re-torqued.
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