What Spark Plugs?
12-30-2011, 02:23 AM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spark plug Honda part# 98079-571BH.
This will be an NGK plug number PFR7G-11S, gapped to .039 made for the s2k. This is the difference between a store-bought plug and a dealer plug.
As far as idle issues, it's not a dirty IAC valve per say, it's a sticking shaft. Time alone will do this to the shaft, not dirt. Remove the motor portion from the valve portion and see for yourself. When you try to spin the shaft, it will be kind of stuck.
This will be an NGK plug number PFR7G-11S, gapped to .039 made for the s2k. This is the difference between a store-bought plug and a dealer plug.
As far as idle issues, it's not a dirty IAC valve per say, it's a sticking shaft. Time alone will do this to the shaft, not dirt. Remove the motor portion from the valve portion and see for yourself. When you try to spin the shaft, it will be kind of stuck.
12-30-2011, 03:44 AM
#22
Moderator
always .039. ignition is ignition. I wont try .044.
I feel all this experimenting is done by people who have never been in a well running stock s2k.
I feel all this experimenting is done by people who have never been in a well running stock s2k.
12-30-2011, 05:21 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
. I always thought the s2k manual called for .044 since stores always spec'd out the .044 plug, but looking into the manual it gives a range from .039 to .043.
12-30-2011, 06:51 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NFRAP2' timestamp='1325134604' post='21270253
[quote name='AZ-S2000' timestamp='1325131598' post='21270174']
Ok, so NGK it is. Whats the torque spec? I noticed it was a problem since someones spark plug blew up. And there I though BMWs were meant to be precise hahah and I am at 96K miles.
Ok, so NGK it is. Whats the torque spec? I noticed it was a problem since someones spark plug blew up. And there I though BMWs were meant to be precise hahah and I am at 96K miles.
I hope this S2000 is as strong as my 540i.[/quote]
Why is it crazy to make sure your spark plugs are properly torqued?
01-01-2012, 10:30 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AZ-S2000' timestamp='1325157240' post='21270588
[quote name='NFRAP2' timestamp='1325134604' post='21270253']
[quote name='AZ-S2000' timestamp='1325131598' post='21270174']
Ok, so NGK it is. Whats the torque spec? I noticed it was a problem since someones spark plug blew up. And there I though BMWs were meant to be precise hahah and I am at 96K miles.
[quote name='AZ-S2000' timestamp='1325131598' post='21270174']
Ok, so NGK it is. Whats the torque spec? I noticed it was a problem since someones spark plug blew up. And there I though BMWs were meant to be precise hahah and I am at 96K miles.
I hope this S2000 is as strong as my 540i.[/quote]
Why is it crazy to make sure your spark plugs are properly torqued?
[/quote]
Apparently the plug backs out or blows up. Idk, I've downshifted to a wrong gear in my 540i in 3rd once past its redline and it screamed but no valve hit, nothing. It seems like these S2K engines aren't all that strong. Although the VANOS (BMW's V-TEC) knock on BMWs, never failed is the down side. Idk, I'll give the car a try. So far, this forum is looking like our BMW forum, full of issues haha. Parts are in no way cheaper for the S2000 vs the BMW. But I am mechanically inclined, definitely do maintenance a lot. I am trying to get stock intake and stock exhaust and get rid of these aftermarket crap. Besides if the engine fails, I'll buy another one.
01-02-2012, 05:49 AM
#26
Moderator
Seems a lot of pathetic mechanics work on the s2k.
This engine is plenty strong. A plug that is not PROPERLY tightened will back out faster on a high performance, high complession engine spinning at 9 grand.
It can happen to any car that had someone work on that thinks he knows how to tighten a spark plug. The resulting damage will happen to any car.
If you are truly mechanically inclinded, the list is very small for preventitive maint on this car. Lets make a list. Anyone chime in. These are the known, very common issues that are neglect or mechanics error that result in more damage. Of course there are other common maint items, but these are the number ones and always the killers.
-Plug torque
-axle nut tsb
-oil level, check every 1k miles until you know your personal oil consumption, and read BOTH SIDES OF THE DIPSTICK! they must match
-clutch fluid...when its dirty, it leaks, then gets low, then you cant shift and the car grinds, and its a bitch to bleed. change it every other oil change
-dont use any Honda fluid in the DIF
-theres a bar on the soft top that should be held back while top lowering. learn about it and save your top from cuts
-of course low coolant would kill any car, but the s2k has no cooling sysytem issues. Its among the best there is in reliability. But bleeding is DIFFICULT and if you do any coolant service, dont drive the car ANYWHERE till you know its been bled properly. Hot interior heat is the key.
Be familiar with this stuff, and the car will be impossible to kill.
This engine is plenty strong. A plug that is not PROPERLY tightened will back out faster on a high performance, high complession engine spinning at 9 grand.
It can happen to any car that had someone work on that thinks he knows how to tighten a spark plug. The resulting damage will happen to any car.
If you are truly mechanically inclinded, the list is very small for preventitive maint on this car. Lets make a list. Anyone chime in. These are the known, very common issues that are neglect or mechanics error that result in more damage. Of course there are other common maint items, but these are the number ones and always the killers.
-Plug torque
-axle nut tsb
-oil level, check every 1k miles until you know your personal oil consumption, and read BOTH SIDES OF THE DIPSTICK! they must match
-clutch fluid...when its dirty, it leaks, then gets low, then you cant shift and the car grinds, and its a bitch to bleed. change it every other oil change
-dont use any Honda fluid in the DIF
-theres a bar on the soft top that should be held back while top lowering. learn about it and save your top from cuts
-of course low coolant would kill any car, but the s2k has no cooling sysytem issues. Its among the best there is in reliability. But bleeding is DIFFICULT and if you do any coolant service, dont drive the car ANYWHERE till you know its been bled properly. Hot interior heat is the key.
Be familiar with this stuff, and the car will be impossible to kill.
The following users liked this post:
TKY (04-03-2020)
01-02-2012, 07:42 AM
#27
Seems a lot of pathetic mechanics work on the s2k.
This engine is plenty strong. A plug that is not PROPERLY tightened will back out faster on a high performance, high complession engine spinning at 9 grand.
It can happen to any car that had someone work on that thinks he knows how to tighten a spark plug. The resulting damage will happen to any car.
If you are truly mechanically inclinded, the list is very small for preventitive maint on this car. Lets make a list. Anyone chime in. These are the know, very common issues that are neglect or mechanics error that result in more damage. Of course there are other common maint items, but these are the number ones and always the killers.
-Plug torque
-axle nut tsb
-oil level, check ever 1k miles till you know your personal oil consumption, and read BOTH SIDES OF THE DIPSTICK! they must match
-clutch fluid...when its dirty, it leaks, then gets low, then you cant shift and the car grinds, and its a bitch to bleed. change it every other oil change
-dont use any Honda fluid in the DIF
-theres a bar on the soft top that should be held back while top lowering. learn about it and save your top from cuts
-of course low coolant would kill any car, but the s2k has no cooling sysytem issues. Its among the best there is in reliability. But bleeding is DIFFICULT and if you do any coolant servive, dont drive the car ANYWHERE till you know its been bled properly. Hot interior heat is the key.
Be familiar with this stuff, and the car will be impossible to kill.
This engine is plenty strong. A plug that is not PROPERLY tightened will back out faster on a high performance, high complession engine spinning at 9 grand.
It can happen to any car that had someone work on that thinks he knows how to tighten a spark plug. The resulting damage will happen to any car.
If you are truly mechanically inclinded, the list is very small for preventitive maint on this car. Lets make a list. Anyone chime in. These are the know, very common issues that are neglect or mechanics error that result in more damage. Of course there are other common maint items, but these are the number ones and always the killers.
-Plug torque
-axle nut tsb
-oil level, check ever 1k miles till you know your personal oil consumption, and read BOTH SIDES OF THE DIPSTICK! they must match
-clutch fluid...when its dirty, it leaks, then gets low, then you cant shift and the car grinds, and its a bitch to bleed. change it every other oil change
-dont use any Honda fluid in the DIF
-theres a bar on the soft top that should be held back while top lowering. learn about it and save your top from cuts
-of course low coolant would kill any car, but the s2k has no cooling sysytem issues. Its among the best there is in reliability. But bleeding is DIFFICULT and if you do any coolant servive, dont drive the car ANYWHERE till you know its been bled properly. Hot interior heat is the key.
Be familiar with this stuff, and the car will be impossible to kill.
Someone should sticky this list, excellent information for owners , thanks for taking the time to do that Billman250. Two notes I have on the list though:
I must profess, I have never heard of the need to hold the bar on the softop, is that mostly an ap2 issue vs. an ap1, I recall that ap2's had a bar with some rough metal edges that caused tearing, not sure if that applied to ap1's though ?
The Honda diff fluid was a definite concern with dealers and mechanics using the wrong fluid.. Many dealers are now using the Honda 80w90 now though, I think that might be an acceptable fluid even though it might not be as good as some aftermarket alternatives.
01-02-2012, 07:48 AM
#28
Moderator
Holding the bar applies to all s2ks with a glass rear window. If you dont, the top latches pinch the top and make left-to-right cut marks towards the front of the top. The rough metal edges cause tears in the triangle are in the rear....but that is good to add.
Honda does finally make a dif fluid, but not all Honda places have it. That is acceptable. However, there is too much of a chane of Honda using the wrong fluid, and it happens all the time. The diff lasts about two days with the wrong fluid like Dual-Pump Dif Fluid.
Honda does finally make a dif fluid, but not all Honda places have it. That is acceptable. However, there is too much of a chane of Honda using the wrong fluid, and it happens all the time. The diff lasts about two days with the wrong fluid like Dual-Pump Dif Fluid.
01-02-2012, 08:05 AM
#29
01-02-2012, 06:34 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Holding the bar applies to all s2ks with a glass rear window. If you dont, the top latches pinch the top and make left-to-right cut marks towards the front of the top. The rough metal edges cause tears in the triangle are in the rear....but that is good to add.
Honda does finally make a dif fluid, but not all Honda places have it. That is acceptable. However, there is too much of a chane of Honda using the wrong fluid, and it happens all the time. The diff lasts about two days with the wrong fluid like Dual-Pump Dif Fluid.
Honda does finally make a dif fluid, but not all Honda places have it. That is acceptable. However, there is too much of a chane of Honda using the wrong fluid, and it happens all the time. The diff lasts about two days with the wrong fluid like Dual-Pump Dif Fluid.