S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

What should be my next mod.

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Old 05-25-2004, 03:12 PM
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Default What should be my next mod.

If you read my sig you can see what i've done. What would you guys suggest now. Rims, suspension, Supercharger. Please weigh in. I am trying to build a good all around road race car. R

Reliabilty good power and great handling. If the S in stock form is say a 6 and the oh say Ferrari stradel is a 10.

I would like to get to a 7.5 or 8 with our car overall.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:22 PM
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Assuming that you have already assigned some of your annual budget to driving school and track time....

In order of importance.

1) Any serious road race car has dedicated track tires, i.e. R-compounds or slicks. This is THE BIGGEST performance mod. Depending on your skill level and driving preference you may want to make general suspension changes like alignment, anti-rollbars and coilovers (for corner-balancing and handling adjustments).

2) You'll want to pay attention to your fluids, especially regularly flushing some good high temperature brake fluid.

3) Any way to take out weight, like that extra stereo stuff, spare tire, tools, etc.

4) A harness to hold you in on the track and associated rollbar. If your driving doesn't cause you to struggle to stay in the seat, you are driving too slow for mods anyways.

5) Complete the I/H/E with a header.

6) Any additional power adders, engine management, etc.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:31 PM
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I started road racing when my car was slightly modded (I/H/E, springs). If I had started from a bone-stock car, all I would upgrade is the brake pads, brake fluid, driver seat, and get an aggressive alignment. Then I'd go on to the other things Fongu stated as I progressed. Before fiddling with suspension components, make sure you can extract all the potential out of the stock suspension, which is excellent as is.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:45 PM
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I'll echo Fongu,

First...
Volk CE28Ns, 235 & 275 toyo RA1s, Track only race pads, Motul RBF brake fluid, a spare set of rotors (your bling slots and holes will not last long with these tires).

Next get rid of as much weight as possible. And yes that means your stereo equipment.

A recaro SPG seat, ELDA roll bar and harness.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:49 PM
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I totally agree, my first suggestion to regular drivers (like almost all of us) is no mods. The car just requires minor safety stuff like brake fluid, pads if you're somewhat fast, and alignment since it is almost free.

The only real mod required is driver skill and experience. Most people put too much importance on hardware, when it only really benefits a driver that can take advantage of it.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:50 PM
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Davepk : what am i looking at $ for the stuff you guys are recomending.
Old 05-25-2004, 04:54 PM
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I have some exp. in the driving area.....I have been told i am good driver on more then one occasion. I would say I drive my car to the ABSOULUTE LIMITS now. I just live in an area with no major tracks.

But i would like to go to Bob Bondurant school.
Old 05-25-2004, 05:17 PM
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If this is for street driving, I don't really understand the question then. The thing is, to to make a race car you are optimizing for the track, which makes it a compromised public road, general use car. Things like race pads require constant use to get them in their operating temperature, which make them dangerous for daily driving. R-compounds wear out faster than street tires, and shaved ones would be poor in the rain and useless in cold temperatures. And if you are driving fast enough on the street to need a harness, slow down before you kill someone.

For a street application, wider street tires w/rims, header and that's it.

As far as "being a good driver" (not flaming) unless that is from a driving instructor, most people don't really know what performance driving feels like. My eyes were opened when riding with an experienced (20+ years) road racing driver. He was the only person to be able to make me want to throw up after a ride, and this was in a deisel Jetta on race tires.
Old 05-25-2004, 05:49 PM
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All valid points: MY concept here is to hang with say a porsche GT# or more of a european tyoe autobahn car. Car that can run at limits indefinatly.

As far as the driving i grew up in a family were i learned how to drive in a 328 gts. So im not actually new to sports cars...
Old 05-25-2004, 06:02 PM
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For now with regard to the suspension you should only need a good alignment. Make sure they get it spot on and dont let them make their "for the road" asymetric tweaks. Left and right should be identical.

I can gaurantee you that the "ABSOULUTE LIMITS" you speak of are not the limits of what your car is capable of, they are simply the limits of your talent. You need to get yourself to a track and get a ride with an experienced S2K pilot.

I used to go nuts on the back roads around here. I swear i could push that car harder and faster than just about anyone else would dare. (Just ask Krazik) Then, I started going to the track regularly and quickly came to realize that there is no way i could drive on the street the way i drive at the track. It may not be obviouse now why that is but a couple of days at the track and it will become crystal clear.

Sorry for the surmon, but from what you've said it sounds like your pushing things pretty hard out on the highway.

To answer yor question...

$100 or so for a good alignment at a race shop

$24 for 2 bottles of ATE Super Blue brake fluid
$160 for a set of Cobalt friction GTR race pads front
$76 for a set of Cobalt friction GTS race pads rear
$80 for a set of front rotors
$75 for a set of rear rotors
All these can be found in the marketplace.

The above list will get you thru the first 3 track days, after which you'll need a new set of tires. If the S02s are working for you then get a new set of those if they wore out too fast then switch to RA1s. I ran a couple sets of S02s for 7 or 8 track days till i completely ruined a brand new set in one track day. Thats how i knew it was time to switch to RA1s.


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