aRrakis

I originally had the gap at .044 but now is set at .043 just to see if it makes any diffrence. And it didn't. They are torqued at 18 lb-ft.
The plugs look little red with thin coat of white stuff on it.
Please don't say that. I'm fresh out of warranty and I've been in denial since I read Rick Hesel's post.

S-

xviper

I just re-read my post and realized a "typo". I should NOT have said "always" been attributed to a bad ECU.

I have edited that comment to read: "A random misfire has also been attributed to a bad ECU, too."

modifry

Some good news, maybe.

I had an early intermittent mis-fire on #1 that got fixed by changing coilpack,injector, & plug. Who knows which one was the cuplrit, but it went away.

At 90k I had another random mis-fire. Sometimes got a CEL, sometimes not. Sometimes it was one cylinder, sometimes more than one. I played the coil swap game too, got consistent CEL's on coil "B" 3 times in a row, then it moved to another coil. WTF???

I gave up and brought it to the dealer, who replaced coil "B" and it's been fine ever since (>20k later).

So for some reason I was getting multiple mis-fire codes even though only one coil was bad. I can't explain it, just reporting the experience.

My advice - buy a coil and make your best guess as to which one is bad. If the misfire doesn't stay gone, play swapsies again. I think they're under $100, and at least you'll save the hour of troubleshooting time the dealer would charge (at least).

.

Billman250

You could do a relative ohm test of the coils (comparison) to see which one "sticks out" as you would say. You can do one test cold, and one hot (pull them out when the engine is hot). the hot test will likely show an issue, if there's one to be found.

Slows2k

The Misfire detection isn't always the most accurate system. The PCM is looking for crankshaft fluctuation from the CKP, and doesn't always interpret the correct Cyl. It's more acccurate on single cylinder misfires, but mutiples tend to muddy the water. If you have a Scan tool that can access the misfire counters, you look to see what cylinders are the most active and start there.

I've seen 1 bad coil pack on a S, which also had oil leakage on the coil through the plug tube seal.

I've never had good luck with accurate Ohm testing of honda coils. I've had some that test good on both windings and the car won't run. Some others tested out of range and the car ran fine.

aRrakis

I was hoping it had something to do with firing order. For example, bad coil on Cyl 3 would yield misfire on 3, 4, 2

aRrakis

After two new coil packs and swapping them around a bunch of times, I was still experiencing occasional pops and puffs. So, I decided that it was time to look in to fuel injectors.
Since I've always had problem with cylinder 4(injector D if you will), but never 1, I pull all the injectors out and put them back in reverse order (D,C,B,A).
And the next CEL the car threw BINGO! It was for the misfire on #1 cylinder.
I am very happy to report that after replacing injector D with a brand new one, popping and puffing problem is gone and never seen a CEL come on since. And again, thank you very much for your replys. I owe it to the help and input of members of this board.

Thanks
Song